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Do you have any of the 76761-n3207 vr leftYes I have.
Thank you
Is there any other way I can use the VR N3207 on the Alternator N1506?
Maybe - it seems they are essentially the same with the N3207 adding the AC output required by the N2003 LBCD. But there's no guarantee that the lack of that input on pin F will still allow the regulator to properly function. It uses a different Amphenol connector to the alternator so that would need to be changed out.Is there any other way I can use the VR N3207 on the Alternator N1506?
And of course it protects from damaging said alternator and other expensive things if you jump the truck with Polarity reversed on Jumper attachments to batteries creating a back feed of Positive juice down the ground paths/Negative lines..... It’s only function is to protect a very expensive alternator from a deeply discharged grossly oversized 4 battery bank. If you drop to 2 batts, it should never be used anyway….
I pretty much said that in the previous sentence…And of course it protects from damaging said alternator and other expensive things if you jump the truck with Polarity reversed on Jumper attachments to batteries creating a back feed of Positive juice down the ground paths/Negative lines.
I don’t think the A0 polarity boxes have any caps, but I havn’t been inside one either. There really isn’t any room for any by the looks of the heat sync extrusion, with only a narrow potted area down the center. they don’t have that large box that houses the caps on the LBCD. The caps in the LBCD may help with ripple, but I am still of the opinion their purpose is blunting the massive spike you are going to get when you open the battery relays with the alt at full load/field, before the regulator can throttle that field…The LBCD has another function - the huge caps in it help to smooth the pretty nasty AC ripple that the Niehoff brushless alts put out. When I measured nearly 1.5v of AC ripple I contacted Niehoff and one of their engineers schooled me that for their design up to 2v of AC ripple is considered "normal". A working LBCD with good caps should reduce this (at least as far as what the load side sees - batteries will get the full unfiltered output but likely don't care in the slightest). I haven't tested how much but indeed - I also don't know how good the caps are in my LBCD. It looks a lot better from the outside than my original did and my original was from 2008 and was SHOT.
AC ripple *can* be..... non-optimal for electronics. Most will tolerate a bit if designed well but the closer you can stay to chemically generated perfectly flat DC the better. Too much inversion, a bit of floating ground...... say goodbye to capacitors and other polarity sensitive devices. I've seen my share of legs blown off caps on circuit boards because of dirty/damaged DC.
I'm curious if the older A0 trucks with the PPD also have the caps inside them? Anyone open one up?
It being brushless, there are also 2 fields to collapse, so the regulator is a little farther removed from control…Yeah the disconnect spike is likely their main purpose. The voltage regulator is a rather slow responding device on these units.
You don’t have to jump it all the way over the engine to the run solenoid To test it. You can simply connect a jumper from ENG to the 24V output terminal on the alternator after you start the engine. The cable on the 24V output terminal connects back to the battery so it always has battery 24v on it…I thank all the inputs. You guys are great.
Has anybody tried to jump the ENG from the voltage regulator to the BATT on the fuel pump solenoid? Read something to test if the VR is really damaged.
Hi Berend,I have 15 new old stock N-3207 voltage regulators, they are listed on eBay also sinds today. If anybody is interested let me know.
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