• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Voltage surging

Stevepsc

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
111
3
16
Location
Conway, SC
Today I started my m1038 fine, drove 10 miles, parked it for 20 minutes. When I fired it back up, I turned on the service lights and noticed the headlight reflection on the brush gaurd was surging. I checked the dash voltage and it was bouncing. I accelerated out of the lot, the surging stopped and the meter stabilized. No more problems today. This is the second time this course of events has happened.

Any ideas?

Stevepsc
 

86humv

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,705
511
113
Location
Texas
The box under the dash is cycling glo plugs like normal.
As long as it goes in the green when done cycling.
 

donquijote

Active member
166
36
28
Location
Louisiana
Mine was doing this as well, but during driving. It would light up the headlights as if they were twice as bright and the voltage gauge would be all the way in the red. After a minute or two it would go back to normal.

Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk
 

Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,559
113
Location
East Tennessee
I would just let mine sit and warm up with the lights off during this.. the headlights will get dim and bright as the voltage goes up and down.
 

donquijote

Active member
166
36
28
Location
Louisiana
mine could be a further issue. the needle flies all the way to the right as far as it can go. the engine can be warm and driven for 45 min and it will randomly happen while driving. lately i can smell burning when it happens sometimes.

whats the best place to check were overvoltage could be occcuring?

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,498
6,631
113
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
mine could be a further issue. the needle flies all the way to the right as far as it can go. the engine can be warm and driven for 45 min and it will randomly happen while driving. lately i can smell burning when it happens sometimes.

whats the best place to check were overvoltage could be occcuring?


Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk
Alternator. Replace it before operating the engine ever again.
 

mechanicjim

Member
90
40
18
Location
Chicago il
can the voltage regulators on these neihoff's be replaced intstead of the entire alternator?

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk
yes they can, on the regulator name plate will be the model number. if you haven't already go the Niehoff website under service and support trouble shooting guides look up your particular alternator and go thought the guide to make sure the alternator isn't also bad.
 

tkdtim

Member
31
1
8
Location
Green Bay, WI
Mine pegged in the red right before it blew the top off one of the batteries. Replaced the battery and was getting 36v running so replaced the alternator and all good.
 

donquijote

Active member
166
36
28
Location
Louisiana
I pulled the hawkers and put then on my charger, both recharged and show good on the meter. Do you think they are still good to run the truck with, or should i just replace?

Sent from my SM-N930P using Tapatalk
 

rcflyer70

Member
142
5
18
Location
Lancaster, Kansas
I'm having a similar issue mentioned in the original post. When first turn on my switch on, the WAIT light will stay on for approximately 10 to 15 seconds and then go out; normal. After the Wait light goes out, I can see the volt meter cycling. When I put a meter on it, it was going from 24v to 23v. I can also clearly my dash e-brake light (red) dimming as it cycles. The engine will start without an issue. After starting, the voltage meter clearly cycles. When I put a meter on the batteries, the voltage goes from 28v to +/- 25v. This continues for few minutes and then stops. Voltage to the batteries stays rock solid at 28.1v. 86humv said this was the control box cycling. Any idea why? Is there a sensor on the engine that is providing feedback to the box that may be defective? I did just complete rebuilding the alternator (new bearings, seals, etc.). I don't recall if this was happening before rebuilding the alternator. With the alternator working perfectly, I can't imagine it would be the issue.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
 

Milcommoguy

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,713
2,279
113
Location
Rosamond, CA
I'm having a similar issue mentioned in the original post. When first turn on my switch on, the WAIT light will stay on for approximately 10 to 15 seconds and then go out; normal. After the Wait light goes out, I can see the volt meter cycling. When I put a meter on it, it was going from 24v to 23v. I can also clearly my dash e-brake light (red) dimming as it cycles. The engine will start without an issue. After starting, the voltage meter clearly cycles. When I put a meter on the batteries, the voltage goes from 28v to +/- 25v. This continues for few minutes and then stops. Voltage to the batteries stays rock solid at 28.1v. 86humv said this was the control box cycling. Any idea why? Is there a sensor on the engine that is providing feedback to the box that may be defective? I did just complete rebuilding the alternator (new bearings, seals, etc.). I don't recall if this was happening before rebuilding the alternator. With the alternator working perfectly, I can't imagine it would be the issue.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Beat a dead horse thread:deadhorse: No horses working or retired were harmed.

NO No no. The voltage drop "window wiper" action of the voltmeter is an indication there is glow plug action.

Added>>> it is the "after glow" cycling that designers built into the box for a sure and cleaner start on off on off on off on off. IMO more to go wrong.

A full set (8) of good plugs can draw 50 to 150 Amps depending on battery voltage and other variables. That's a lot of electrons making heat. Just indication the p u l l on the battery voltage.

Maybe all are working BUT good to test each first before cashing out. Check / test them all individually to be ready for winter.

Most important is the cycling shuts off after a couple minutes. If EVER the voltmeter does not recover from the back and forth... and stays LOW ... SHUT it off. That's a sign the "box" has not released the glow plug voltage. (could be alternator too. Just have to learn how your HumV behaves. lots of personality)

NINTY seconds of staying low... there's is GOOD chance you burned thru a $100 bill for new plugs. You will know when it started and ran fine to the parants for Thanksgiving dinner. Stayed for the home made pie 🥧 and it would not start when time to go home. (one of a couple likely headaches)

That little voltmeter can tell a lot of stories to whats's going on under the hood. At night with the lights on, flash back to the 70's at a disco dance party. LOL

Always nice to have some spare HumV plugs with the bullet tops, right in the glove box.

Buy if you want. IMO I think you're OK. The test is the proof. A low LOW resistance 1.5 - 5 ohms +/- Above 5 ohms questionable & toss it.

Check each and save some bucks, CAMO
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks