"Wait" Light not illuminating

[Bulldogger]

I have even more questions now then I did when this post started. I guess that's part of the process of learning the ins and outs. I always thought the plug on the driver's side tunnel next to the parking brake and gear selector was a comm port. Is it that or where the STE/ICE is plugged in for diagnostics? Can you get power for accessories off of that plug? Are STE/ICE devices available at surplus auctions or are they still in use or in a government warehouse somewhere in case they are needed? Are there aftermarket options out there? I know it's asking a lot, but after more research, I have more questions. Also, is there anybody out there in Central Virginia?

Am up in Alexandria, not terribly near I know. There are paths around using the STE/ICE tester, you don't have to have it for many fixes.

It is my understanding that is a Comms Port, yes. There must be 24V there somewhere, and a long careful read of the electrical diagram will find it. I am planning to take mine out, since I have no radio and I keep busting my knuckles when shifting into H from LL.

Welcome to the fun.

Bulldogger

 

[Jsmith1529]

So, I checked the battery and everything was good there. Almost 12 on both and 24 between them. I unhooked the battery to check the glow plugs and the first I pulled out must've been shot cause I couldn't get my multimeter to read anything. Put it back in, hooked it all back up, and voila; wait light on then off, and it fired with no smoke. Did the PCB or something else reset, or was I holding my mouth right this time?

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Milcommoguy]

All of the above.

Get busy on the grounding kit.

CAM, with fingers crossed.

 

[Doug D.]

what about a wait light that stays on to long? Maybe 15-20 seconds?

 

[TOBASH]

what about a wait light that stays on to long? Maybe 15-20 seconds?

Might be relative to ambient temperature. The glow plug temp sensing unit /TSU gives feedback to the PCB/EESS. Colder temps might require more time. Your unit does not sound too bad to me BUT it is possible you need a PCB/EESS repair with upgrade seen on post 51. Otherwise PM me and I can help you out.

How to bypass PCB? I am aware some HMMWV owners have done it. TOBASH

I'm not trying to speak sacrilege here, and I don't want to precipitate a war of words. :shock: How might I build a manual control box? My 24Volt Landcruiser just uses a glow wire to show glow plugs are ready, and then she just starts right up with the twist of a key. Civilian 6.2 Diesel...

www.steelsoldiers.com

That being said, if you turn over and start normally, you might want to LEAVE IT ALONE.

What is ambient temperature by you right now?

 

[Doug D.]

Might be relative to ambient temperature. The glow plug temp sensing unit /TSU gives feedback to the PCB/EESS. Colder temps might require more time. Your unit does not sound too bad to me BUT it is possible you need a PCB/EESS repair with upgrade seen on post 51. Otherwise PM me and I can help you out.

How to bypass PCB? I am aware some HMMWV owners have done it. TOBASH

I'm not trying to speak sacrilege here, and I don't want to precipitate a war of words. :shock: How might I build a manual control box? My 24Volt Landcruiser just uses a glow wire to show glow plugs are ready, and then she just starts right up with the twist of a key. Civilian 6.2 Diesel...

www.steelsoldiers.com

That being said, if you turn over and start normally, you might want to LEAVE IT ALONE.

What is ambient temperature by you right now?

temp where i am at is 40 in the mornings and 60 or so during the day. Even though the wait light takes a minute---it does crank very well once i crank it. Maybe i should just leave it alone?