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Wait light stays on, crank but no start.

4x4Junkie13

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La Vernia TX
1167 REVB for reference
Truck had all the wires from the KDS SSS box cut in the cab (not the engine harness).

Using a tone tester and wiring logic schematic I chased the wiring down to get them reconnected but so far I am not getting power to the IP solenoid even though there is continuity in the 54A wire.
What would make the wait light stay on?
 

Mogman

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Do you have power on #29C to the EESS box? you say the wait light stays on, do you mean with the run switch on or all the time?
Have you checked the voltage to the glow plugs?
Do you have a good schematic for your truck?
 

4x4Junkie13

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La Vernia TX
Hey Mogman it’s been a while.

I have a XL blown up wiring logic schematic specifically for 300k+ SN 1167’s.
I have not checked power to the 29C wire but everything else works.

When the switch is turned to run, it lights up and stays on. I can crank it but no start and the light stays on. While cranking I am not getting power through the 54A wire going to the IP.
 

Humpty

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The wait light comes on when the lead to the light is grounded. (pin E on the dash side plug) Are you trying to reconnect a ESS that had the plug hacked off or are you trying to bypass the ESS all together? If your wait light is on constant, my guess you have it connected to the wrong pin headed to the ESS. Maybe a ground.
 

TOBASH

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If you crank then problem is either with no glow plugs OR no fuel flow due to fuel cutoff on IP not receiving electricity or not working.

My sig line has a link with a schematic of wires in and out of the PCB/EESS.
 
Last edited:

4x4Junkie13

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Location
La Vernia TX
The wait light comes on when the lead to the light is grounded. (pin E on the dash side plug) Are you trying to reconnect a ESS that had the plug hacked off or are you trying to bypass the ESS all together? If your wait light is on constant, my guess you have it connected to the wrong pin headed to the ESS. Maybe a ground.
Yes the connector to the SSS box was cut and I have tone tested each individual wire using the schematic to find each end.
originally I thought the same thing that perhaps I connected it wrong, perhaps to a ground but everything else is working as it should.
 

Humpty

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Yes the connector to the SSS box was cut and I have tone tested each individual wire using the schematic to find each end.
originally I thought the same thing that perhaps I connected it wrong, perhaps to a ground but everything else is working as it should.
If it's connected correctly to the box.. maybe the box is no good? With the key to "run" you outta have juice to the IP pump solenoid anyway. These engines are pretty simple minded. If you're got compression and fuel making it to the cylinders and those cylinders are warm, you'll get bang.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Hey Mogman it’s been a while.

I have a XL blown up wiring logic schematic specifically for 300k+ SN 1167’s.
I have not checked power to the 29C wire but everything else works.

When the switch is turned to run, it lights up and stays on. I can crank it but no start and the light stays on. While cranking I am not getting power through the 54A wire going to the IP.
so if I read this correctly, the wait lamp does NOT extinguish after 9 seconds? Also….you haven't said just what start box you have, if it new or the original in the truck or you have a known good “EESS” box installed.
 

4x4Junkie13

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Location
La Vernia TX
so if I read this correctly, the wait lamp does NOT extinguish after 9 seconds? Also….you haven't said just what start box you have, if it new or the original in the truck or you have a known good “EESS” box installed.
Correct, it does not turn off at all once turned to the run position.
It is a KDS box and KDS glow plug controller.
I have tried Norton ones with the matching Norton Glow plug controller but still same symptoms.

As far as I know the only thing that would do this is if the box is bad or if the neutral safety switch was not working, both would keep signal from going to the IP solenoid.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Correct, it does not turn off at all once turned to the run position.
It is a KDS box and KDS glow plug controller.
I have tried Norton ones with the matching Norton Glow plug controller but still same symptoms.

As far as I know the only thing that would do this is if the box is bad or if the neutral safety switch was not working, both would keep signal from going to the IP solenoid.
if that wait light goes past it’s 9 seconds? You are grenading you’re glow plugs…
Didn’t you call my shop a few weeks ago?
 

Mogman

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Correct, it does not turn off at all once turned to the run position.
It is a KDS box and KDS glow plug controller.
I have tried Norton ones with the matching Norton Glow plug controller but still same symptoms.

As far as I know the only thing that would do this is if the box is bad or if the neutral safety switch was not working, both would keep signal from going to the IP solenoid.
The neutral switch has nothing to do with the IP signal, only the start signal
 
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