Wait light stays on, crank but no start.

[4x4Junkie13]

1167 REVB for reference
Truck had all the wires from the KDS SSS box cut in the cab (not the engine harness).

Using a tone tester and wiring logic schematic I chased the wiring down to get them reconnected but so far I am not getting power to the IP solenoid even though there is continuity in the 54A wire.
What would make the wait light stay on?

 

[Mogman]

Do you have power on #29C to the EESS box? you say the wait light stays on, do you mean with the run switch on or all the time?
Have you checked the voltage to the glow plugs?
Do you have a good schematic for your truck?

 

[4x4Junkie13]

Hey Mogman it’s been a while.

I have a XL blown up wiring logic schematic specifically for 300k+ SN 1167’s.
I have not checked power to the 29C wire but everything else works.

When the switch is turned to run, it lights up and stays on. I can crank it but no start and the light stays on. While cranking I am not getting power through the 54A wire going to the IP.

 

[4x4Junkie13]

I haven’t checked the power to the glow plugs but I would think it would send power to the IP solenoid either way?

 

[Humpty]

The wait light comes on when the lead to the light is grounded. (pin E on the dash side plug) Are you trying to reconnect a ESS that had the plug hacked off or are you trying to bypass the ESS all together? If your wait light is on constant, my guess you have it connected to the wrong pin headed to the ESS. Maybe a ground.

 

[TOBASH]

If you crank then problem is either with no glow plugs OR no fuel flow due to fuel cutoff on IP not receiving electricity or not working.

My sig line has a link with a schematic of wires in and out of the PCB/EESS.

 

[4x4Junkie13]

The wait light comes on when the lead to the light is grounded. (pin E on the dash side plug) Are you trying to reconnect a ESS that had the plug hacked off or are you trying to bypass the ESS all together? If your wait light is on constant, my guess you have it connected to the wrong pin headed to the ESS. Maybe a ground.

Yes the connector to the SSS box was cut and I have tone tested each individual wire using the schematic to find each end.
originally I thought the same thing that perhaps I connected it wrong, perhaps to a ground but everything else is working as it should.

 

[Humpty]

Yes the connector to the SSS box was cut and I have tone tested each individual wire using the schematic to find each end.
originally I thought the same thing that perhaps I connected it wrong, perhaps to a ground but everything else is working as it should.

If it's connected correctly to the box.. maybe the box is no good? With the key to "run" you outta have juice to the IP pump solenoid anyway. These engines are pretty simple minded. If you're got compression and fuel making it to the cylinders and those cylinders are warm, you'll get bang.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Hey Mogman it’s been a while.

I have a XL blown up wiring logic schematic specifically for 300k+ SN 1167’s.
I have not checked power to the 29C wire but everything else works.

When the switch is turned to run, it lights up and stays on. I can crank it but no start and the light stays on. While cranking I am not getting power through the 54A wire going to the IP.

so if I read this correctly, the wait lamp does NOT extinguish after 9 seconds? Also….you haven't said just what start box you have, if it new or the original in the truck or you have a known good “EESS” box installed.

 

[4x4Junkie13]

so if I read this correctly, the wait lamp does NOT extinguish after 9 seconds? Also….you haven't said just what start box you have, if it new or the original in the truck or you have a known good “EESS” box installed.

Correct, it does not turn off at all once turned to the run position.
It is a KDS box and KDS glow plug controller.
I have tried Norton ones with the matching Norton Glow plug controller but still same symptoms.

As far as I know the only thing that would do this is if the box is bad or if the neutral safety switch was not working, both would keep signal from going to the IP solenoid.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Correct, it does not turn off at all once turned to the run position.
It is a KDS box and KDS glow plug controller.
I have tried Norton ones with the matching Norton Glow plug controller but still same symptoms.

As far as I know the only thing that would do this is if the box is bad or if the neutral safety switch was not working, both would keep signal from going to the IP solenoid.

if that wait light goes past it’s 9 seconds? You are grenading you’re glow plugs…
Didn’t you call my shop a few weeks ago?

 

[4x4Junkie13]

if that wait light goes past it’s 9 seconds? You are grenading you’re glow plugs…

Yes, I am aware. I don’t go past 9 seconds.

I contacted you via FB Messenger a few weeks back.

 

[Mogman]

Correct, it does not turn off at all once turned to the run position.
It is a KDS box and KDS glow plug controller.
I have tried Norton ones with the matching Norton Glow plug controller but still same symptoms.

As far as I know the only thing that would do this is if the box is bad or if the neutral safety switch was not working, both would keep signal from going to the IP solenoid.

The neutral switch has nothing to do with the IP signal, only the start signal

 

[4x4Junkie13]

If the glow plugs are all burnt out, could this cause the wait light to stay on?

 

[Mogman]

If the injectors are all burnt out, could this cause the wait light to stay on?

Maybe if all the glow plugs were burned out, not the injectors

 

[Mogman]

You have already ohm'ed out all the glow plugs yes? would have been one of the first things to do.

 

[4x4Junkie13]

Guess that will be my next check.

 

[4x4Junkie13]

Maybe if all the glow plugs were burned out, not the injectors

Yes I meant glow plugs not injectors. Sorry

 

[Coug]

You have that backwards.

If the wait light stays on because of a failure in the start box, then it can burn out the glow plugs. Engine will start easy the first time because of new glow plugs, but they will all burn up after that.

Test the glow plugs to see if they are good or not.
Test for voltage at the glow plug connector with switch turned on. You should have full voltage for approximately 10 seconds. After that it will either pulse or have reduced voltage if working properly. If it stays at full battery voltage for more than 10-15 seconds, then your start box is the issue and unless you fix it (almost always a replacement box) then you will continue to burn up glow plugs.

 

[4x4Junkie13]

Yes, next step will be to check voltage and then ohm out the plugs.
There is a IP diode that was destroyed, burnt and cut in half. Would this have anything to do with it?
What is this diode for?