Wait light troubleshooting

[Action]

Ok fiddled some more. Andy has offered to loan me a known good box and sender to test. In meantime, I went back through shooter. The 571 ground from the light, I grounded that to the new ground harness. Light now comes on. However, it now won’t turn off after cranking…So next couple of days I hope to borrow the other box/sender and see if either of mine are the culprit. Leaning towards box now.

Wait. What? Why are you cranking the engine when the WAIT light is lit. It means WAIT.

 

[Action]

Leaning... LEANING..... WAIT when the bill comes for a good new set up, LOL. Check each glow plugs for 1.5 to 5 Ohms. Replace open ones first.

Would like to know what you find on these "GROUNDS" before the magical ground kit. Check the ground behind the dash with doggy house off. Little hard, PITA to get at, but you will have to anyway. There is a very big important one on the starter too. Easy ones are the engine & generator. There's another on the steering column too. (not in the kit)

Little tip... just to test, no need to mess with screwing in the TSU into the crossover manifold. I has its own ground wire. Do what you think..........

I will be falling over when the new stuff shows up, CAMO

There will be more new parts involved when he has to replace the loaner parts....

 

[jkcondrey]

All the grounds were

Wait. What? Why are you cranking the engine when the WAIT light is lit. It means WAIT

The engine already ran fine. You can start them without the wait light going off. World won’t end. Looks as though the timer in box is probable culprit even though it didn’t look burnt. Wait light is for the glow plugs, which did not look to be cycling either. The light worked by running the 571 back to a good ground instead of it going back to the start box. But then stayed on. Andy is gonna let me try another box to verify that mine is bad.

 

[jkcondrey]

There will be more new parts involved when he has to replace the loaner parts....

I’m sure you have it all figured action. You chime on on nearly every post for a hmmwv. Come on down take a look.

 

[Action]

For some odd reason, I don't want my engine running with full hot glow plugs for 7-10 seconds. Maybe it is just me. I don't start mine until the WAIT light goes out.

 

[jkcondrey]

Still waiting on the 3&6 help you mentioned action.

 

[Action]

I’m sure you have it all figured action. You chime on on nearly every post for a hmmwv. Come on down take a look.

Yup. I get stuck in the house with covid. I only read HMMWV forum, because I have one. I have no business on a CUCV or Deuce forum. I don;t have those.

 

[Action]

Still waiting on the 3&6 help you mentioned action.

86humv answered it for you. I tried but could not see the numbers.

 

[jkcondrey]

The

For some odd reason, I don't want my engine running with full hot glow plugs for 7-10 seconds. Maybe it is just me. I don't start mine until the WAIT light goes out.

Then you never had a 998 with them cycling for two minutes….

 

[Action]

Ok fiddled some more. Andy has offered to loan me a known good box and sender to test. In meantime, I went back through shooter. The 571 ground from the light, I grounded that to the new ground harness. Light now comes on. However, it now won’t turn off after cranking…So next couple of days I hope to borrow the other box/sender and see if either of mine are the culprit. Leaning towards box now.

The lamp won't go out with 571 connected to a ground. 571 runs from the lamp to the PCB. 27 ties into the gauge cluster. You eliminated the PCB from the wait lamp operation.

 

[jkcondrey]

Back to the useful help…
Camo
The grounds on there were in great shape, all but the starter had silicone and were pretty clean. The dash ground may have been a tad loose. Put the ground kit on and the voltage that I mentioned at 5/6 went to full 24.
The 571 ground off the light goes back to the box. I pulled that and ran to the nice new ground cable on the block. Turned switch on and light came on, first time. It never went off after a full minute. Turned off again back to still wouldn’t go off. Cranked, started and still stay on. After speaking to another member he seems to think as I do that the box is the culprit. I have not ohmd plugs yet, as the troubleshooter did not note it.

 

[Action]

A spare marker light makes a good tester for different things. You can unplug a glowplug, and hook that wire to the 24v test light. ground the housing. If it doesn't light up (with good bilb and connections), then the plugs aren't on.

 

[jkcondrey]

The lamp won't go out with 571 connected to a ground. 571 runs from the lamp to the PCB. 27 ties into the gauge cluster. You eliminated the PCB from the wait lamp operation.

And with the 571 running to the pcb is doesn’t work so we kinda point to that then too I guess…

 

[Milcommoguy]

Yes... the 571 is the control lead to turn on the WAIT LED. This is done at pin "E" cab harness to box. Internal CPU logic pulls this "low". Don't worry about it... UNLESS your connector is all wacked up. Another clue to BAD BOX..

Look it over good. Use a common sense approach, checking off the steps. Don't overthink it. It worked when it left the factory. Hasn't been all jack and mess-up... RIGHT ? Put it back together with GOOD parts. WOOO did I just write that. LOL

One thing to note to ALL paying attention here. Go fiddling around removing / replacing connectors with the batteries connected is a BAD idea,,, there is a GOOD chance YOU will F up and short across pins while feeling around in the dark while waking up to a big flash and burnt pins and a burnt out box, not to say the lump of in your pants... and this thread starts all over again.... just saying. Do I gets an award for longest sentence. HAHa

Your ready for test start. All glow plugs check OK or better NEW. Test them too. Paying attention watch for the voltmeter dip / cycling or better yet probe one of the plug leads looking for controller glow plug management.ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON BAH BAH bha. Remember it's a SMART START BOX...Just be SMARTER. Don't give up. It could cycle for a minute or twooooo. If it stays ON... Pull the yellow and black handle and BAIL OUT.

Can't we all get along? OK, How to get this truck running, CAMO

PS... I to am about to toss a towel.

 

[Milcommoguy]

A spare marker light makes a good tester for different things. You can unplug a glowplug, and hook that wire to the 24v test light. ground the housing. If it doesn't light up (with good bilb and connections), then the plugs aren't on.

Wayback look up.................

Lots of new... well old Hmmwv sales and ALL the problems (FUN) that goes with them.

Electrical issues can be a bit to chase down. Can't see them little excited electron running around. Your excited too, with a new and NOW DEAD HumV in the driveway.

To help one see them electrons and the parts energizing or not, I present this simple tester.

There's no need to stand around scratching your head and second guessing those pesky electrons and then getting sideways with fuel and pumps and filters and injectors, glop plugs and schrader valves on tires.

Eliminate the easy stuff with a GO-NO GO light. Good to have in your fix kit too.

Easy and simple to build. Need a light, socket for light, 9 + feet of wire (16 ga), couple of roach clips (alligator) and tape, (shrink sleeve optional). Parts right out of the junk box and a little time. See the pictures and fill in the blanks.


Socket, contact shell and pin from old tail light.


A 28 volt bulb, some wire and roach clips Ah alligator. The big red one is for later. Just kidding.


The easy build, solder, splice, shrink sleeve, but no hot glue girls.

Now that you have it built, double check. Then the first test across the batteries. Bright light...Ya got it right.

Important note: Humv is a strong truck... So you NEED strong batteries (both of them) and GOOD connections (all of them) to start with. (no PUN here)

Now jump ahead of the class and start answering those questions??

Do I have power to the ??? IP, glow plugs, starter, lights, heater, valve stems? Are the glow plugs in circuit or blown open. Once you get the hang of it (remember simple and easy) at home or on the trail, no more guessing.

Some tests:

Easiest to connect the long one to battery and work the short one on the circuit under test.

REAL TESTS;

Test light first. Don't want to start out on wrong foot .

Batteries have voltage and is NOT a test of capacity to run / start... BUT will light a bulb Mr. Edison. There are some advanced tests in Humv 102 class. Just KNOW you need have Good batteries before proceeding.

These tests shown with truck in the "STOP" position.
Long lead to battery + Short one to -
Batteries have some juice and bulb is good.


Long lead to battery + Short one to plug tip
Important test GLOW PLUG/s... Light is a GO Test the other 7. No light


Long lead to battery + Short one to either IP solenoid coils to test.
IP Pump solenoid coils. The lamp may be a bit dimmed.


Test for power to ??? Long lead to battery negative next two test.

Crapped up picture, long lead to battery negative.
Pull forward lead on IP and clip into it. Turn switch to "RUN" Got light No light


long lead to battery negative.
Tests for glow plug energizing power. This can be a bit tricky due to the controller wanting to cycle the power depending on being so smart. If light comes on and cycles off and or on and off and on and off good chance your good. If stays on longer than 15 seconds you are screwed. Likely already toasted plugs

Other tests go about the same way for lights, horn, heater to see if you getting poweror not

So for those that didn't ditch class... Here's the offer. No takers back then and gave it away CAMO 9/7/21

I wrote down a number from 1-1000. First Steel Soldier that comes closest is the winner of version 2.15.9 of the CAMO TEST LIGHT. Sent free to your door.

The one on the left
OFFER EXPIRES IN 24 HOURS No takers back then and gave it away CAMO 9/7/21

Finally something free other that advice, GOOD LUCK, CAMO

 

[Coug]

672?

 

[Action]

In a normal working system, what would the wait light do if all of the glow plugs were bad? Would it blink, or not come on, or come on for the normal time?

The last sentence in Post #51 leads me to believe the OP doesn’t want to ohm the plugs.

You dont need to remove glow plugs to test them. Just remove the wire from it. Put one tester probe to known good ground and the other to the plug.

 

[Milcommoguy]

672?

Offer expired. Thank you for participating. Please forward valid bank card number for next contest drawing.

HAHA Nice to see somebody is paying attention. You are ahead of the class, CAMO

 

[Milcommoguy]

In a normal working system, what would the wait light do if all of the glow plugs were bad? Would it blink, or not come on, or come on for the normal time?

The last sentence in Post #51 leads me to believe the OP doesn’t want to ohm the plugs.

You dont need to remove glow plugs to test them. Just remove the wire from it. Put one tester probe to known good ground and the other to the plug.

There's a lot of steps and skipping and sliding here. Funky HumV dance moves LOL

WAIT led is dumb with no feedback to CPU. Only operator / driver as it says WAIT dumb before start. Good plugs and timing cycle would follow thur. Operator would just crank it over... till that cold day messing with the smart box brain. Choke and smoke.

We all... spend a LOT of time and effort, been there, got the greasy tee shirt and a nice running truck.

I try to understand the problem thru the text written and there lies a BIG problem following the trail of holes and land mines written into the text / stories. If it wasn't 108 degrees outside I would be doing something else...

Fun till you step on one, CAMO

 

[jkcondrey]

In a normal working system, what would the wait light do if all of the glow plugs were bad? Would it blink, or not come on, or come on for the normal time?

The last sentence in Post #51 leads me to believe the OP doesn’t want to ohm the plugs.

You dont need to remove glow plugs to test them. Just remove the wire from it. Put one tester probe to known good ground and the other to the plug.

No where in post 51 did i state i was not going to check the plugs out. I stated the troubleshooter did not have you test them. I actually do know how to do so, as i have done so and replaced on several of my past trucks. My problem is your holier than thou attitude that comes along with nearly every post you do, to multiple users on this site. When I need something from you, I will ask in the future. In the meantime, isn't there someone else putting up a post you need to criticize? You and doghead must've served in the same unit.