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waiting for the tow truck

Dave Kay

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Kingman AZ
Well, fuel tank is pulled and on the driveway. nothing obviously wrong, but the fuel lines weren't in the greatest shape so maybe replacing them will do the trick.
Doesn't the fuel tank have an internal pump? Like it's part of the sending/pick-up unit? I could be wrong but if that's the case and if in doubt--- replace it, no?
 

linx310

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texas
Have you tried running a rubber hose directly into the fuel pump to container of diesel?

If you fuel lines don't look good they could have pin holes or cracks sucking in air.
 

cleb

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Huntsville, AL
Sounds like a compression or lack of fuel issue. I would replace every rubber line between the fuel tank and the IP. Also, blow the lines out with compressed air. Could be rusted or have crud in them. When cranking over the engine with the fuel bleed screw open on the filter base do you get a good stream of fuel coming out? I had 2 lift pumps go gunnysack on my M1009, could be the issue. Also, on the top of the pump is a check valve. It gets clogged up and can cause issues, although I'm guessing it was replaced with the IP? You can also pressurize the fuel tank alightly with compressed air and see if anything leaks. I also had starter issues, wrong bolt issues, and had to helicoil, new flywheel, new starter. I feel your pain. I loved that truck, but I worked on it about as much as I drove it :/.
 

K9Vic

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I bought that compression tester from Harbor Freight I mentioned as it can come in handy since I have two CUCVs. So if you want me to help and test your CUCV let me know. Plus you can help guide me on my IP swap for my M1010.
 

watkinssr

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Sounds like a compression or lack of fuel issue. I would replace every rubber line between the fuel tank and the IP. Also, blow the lines out with compressed air. Could be rusted or have crud in them. When cranking over the engine with the fuel bleed screw open on the filter base do you get a good stream of fuel coming out? I had 2 lift pumps go gunnysack on my M1009, could be the issue. Also, on the top of the pump is a check valve. It gets clogged up and can cause issues, although I'm guessing it was replaced with the IP? You can also pressurize the fuel tank alightly with compressed air and see if anything leaks. I also had starter issues, wrong bolt issues, and had to helicoil, new flywheel, new starter. I feel your pain. I loved that truck, but I worked on it about as much as I drove it :/.
Yeah, pretty much tried all of that...Today we got new lines on the fuel tank...those were the last one left to replace..


I bought that compression tester from Harbor Freight I mentioned as it can come in handy since I have two CUCVs. So if you want me to help and test your CUCV let me know. Plus you can help guide me on my IP swap for my M1010.
Thanks man, I will definately take you up on that. And let me know if there is anything I can do to help on the m1010.
 

that1028guy

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Florissant, Mo
I have been following this from the begining. I wonder... if you have some kind of a pinched line somewhere, I like the idea of seeing if the truck will run off a small container of fuel. That way you can rule out the entire fuel system up to the lift pump. These trucks are very simple running wise. They need air, fuel, compression and timing. A compression check is a must, also check your intake track and exhaust for obstructions. I know for a fact that a N14 cummings will run like crap with a fender cover in the intake pipe... I guess in a long winded way im trying to say sometimes we get so caught up in trying to figure something out we can over look something very obvious. Take a step back, and a deep breath and get another head in the diagnostics with you. I wish you the best of luck, and am still pullin for you to get her up and running.
 
I'm starting to think it is in the timing chain if the new fuel lines and lift pump don't fix her up. I can't remember if you replaced the lift pump, so help refresh our memory if you did not... and if you didn't try a new lift pump, I would put one in as the very next step. I replaced the mechanical one on one of my M1009s with an electric one I bought off egay and it ran just like you say yours is doing. It would barely idle and would not do it for long, and it did not have enough power to get out of it's own way. I went ahead an splurged on another electric fuel pump, but this one by Mr gasket, made for diesel fuel (just like the one on egay said), and put it in, and viola, it runs like it should.
 

watkinssr

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all fuel lines replaced now, no change. while I would like to keep this thing, it looks like it is beyond what I can afford to do. About the only thing left is low compression, and that's not something I can afford to fix, nor am I in good enough health to do it.

I've got probably 2 grand in it at this point, any offers before I ebay it?
It has a solid body (no real rust), two new batteries, rebuilt injection pump, new fuel filter, new lift pump, rebuilt starter, new flyflexwheelplate, tilt wheel, new window crank (not installed yet), current tags, serviceable tires, new pickup screen...sock...in the tank.

The alternators look rebuilt, as does the fuel filter base, and the transmission/torque converter (but I didn't replace them myself), and it has one of those pintle hook/trailer ball combos.

clear texas title. 21 page back story. lights work, it will drive down the road with some effort (shift into gear with your foot off the brake and the motor reved.
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
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Howdy, just checking in. Everthing you describe is a blown head gasket. Reason: white smoke, no power, dies when dropping in gear. There doesn't have to be oil in the radiator. If the break is between the water jacket and a cylinder, no oil can get into the problem. Pressure checks can sometimes find the problem. Test the radiator with a pressure guage. If it's a blown gasket you'll know right away.

I had the exact problem you describe on a 68 toyota. Found the leak, changed the gasket truck ran like a frisky gorrila.
 

watkinssr

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Howdy, just checking in. Everthing you describe is a blown head gasket. Reason: white smoke, no power, dies when dropping in gear. There doesn't have to be oil in the radiator. If the break is between the water jacket and a cylinder, no oil can get into the problem. Pressure checks can sometimes find the problem. Test the radiator with a pressure guage. If it's a blown gasket you'll know right away.

I had the exact problem you describe on a 68 toyota. Found the leak, changed the gasket truck ran like a frisky gorrila.
It would have to be on both heads...woth pipes smoke the same.
 

jacksmad1

Member
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Location
Franklin, KY
Seems to me that if it was a blown head gasket between the cylinder and water jacket and it was sucking coolant, that you would notice the coolant level going down after it ran for awhile. Have you had to add coolant to top it off ? Just wondering....
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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It would have to be on both heads...woth pipes smoke the same.
Not unheard of. How many miles do you think are on the truck?

Please don't take this as patronizing. When troubleshooting an engine three things are required: fuel (got that) fire (got that) and air (got that). You beaten the fuel issue pretty hard. Same goes for the glow plugs. The fact that the truck starts indicates that the minimum amount of air is getting into the engine. Question is how much air is getting to the cylinders? If the filter is clean and the intake(s) are unobstructed, the exact amount of air necessary to run the engine is getting there. It's when the air is too little or too much that you have problems. Too much air isn't necessarily a bad thing, then engine will probably run hot but power shouldnt be an issue. If the air is too little, the truck will start and if you slowly add fuel it can keep up but eventually it will starve and shut down the engine. With the white smoke, you have the added question of water. If there is where could the water be coming from? too possibles: broken / damged gasket or cracked head. nothing else comes to mind with the qwhite smoke issue except it should be white.

Recommendations: check pressure of radiator and coolant system (sorry for the repeat)
check the torque on the heads
last option that comes to mind is pull the heads and check the gaskets / cylinder walls. look for cracks.

Hope this helps. I hate to see you put all that work into it and not win.
 
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watkinssr

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Not unheard of. How many miles do you think are on the truck?

Please don't take this as patronizing. When troubleshooting an engine three things are required: fuel (got that) fire (got that) and air (got that). You beaten the fuel issue pretty hard. Same goes for the glow plugs. The fact that the truck starts indicates that the minimum amount of air is getting into the engine. Question is how much air is getting to the cylinders? If the filter is clean and the intake(s) are unobstructed, the exact amount of air necessary to run the engine is getting there. It's when the air is too little or too much that you have problems. Too much air isn't necessarily a bad thing, then engine will probably run hot but power shouldnt be an issue. If the air is too little, the truck will start and if you slowly add fuel it can keep up but eventually it will starve and shut down the engine. With the white smoke, you have the added question of water. If there is where could the water be coming from? too possibles: broken / damged gasket or cracked head. nothing else comes to mind with the qwhite smoke issue except it should be white.

Recommendations: check pressure of radiator and coolant system (sorry for the repeat)
check the torque on the heads
last option that comes to mind is pull the heads and check the gaskets / cylinder walls. look for cracks.

Hope this helps. I hate to see you put all that work into it and not win.
Thanks, I don't take anything as patronizing. I wouldn't post here if I didn't want people's opinions.

With a diesel it's fuel, compression, and air. I've got the fuel and air (same problem with no air cleaner at all). White smoke generally means unburned fuel, and that means air in the lines (which I've eliminated) or low compression....from what I've learned in the last ouple of months. The low compression could be blown head gaskets, bad valves, or worn rings. None of those things can I take on at this point. With a bad back and business slowed down to bare substinance (out of the 12 story submissions I've done , only one has sold) I've done everything I can afford to do. And since I missed out on paying work this week because of lack of transportation, I just cant afford to any more money into it, or wait till I can.

So, tomorrow I mount the license plate, fix the rear window crank, and make sure everything is back togeather and cleaned up. And I start taking photos of it and start looking for a new buyer. I just hope I can get enough to get a beater pickup or van. I hate this.
 

watkinssr

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Oh, and as for how many miles. the odometer says 70k something, IIRC. the motor looks to have been redone at some point, and there is a date stenciled on the oil pan (which looks like it's been repainted) that If remember correctly was some time in the last 10 years. None of that, of course, is conclusive of anything. The guys I bought it from could have steam cleaned it, and the date could mean anything.
 
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