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Wanna do a serp belt conversion on my M1009 but keep 24v

acesneights1

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I hate the v belts on these. I got rid of them on my M1008 and never looked back but that included a 12v conversion, which for that truck was the right thing to do.
What I was studying was the CUCV sticky on the isolated ground theory of operation.
The serp belt setup uses a non isolated cs130 alt. That should be ok for Gen 1 but now I would need to come up with a pass side gen alt compatible with being isolated and serp and make it fit where the a/c compressor would go.
Any ideas ?
Also I'm no ace with electric but any reason I could not just use one 24v alt ?? Or would that interfere with the split voltages ? Or cause an uneven charging with one battery supplying the 12v stuff ?
 

doghead

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Why do you hate v belts?

Are you really going to spend 3-4 hundred dollars to replace 3 belts with one?
 

acesneights1

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Why do you hate v belts?

Are you really going to spend 3-4 hundred dollars to replace 3 belts with one?
No, I have a whole setup minus whatever do for Alt 2.
V belts are a nuisance plus by changing over to Serp I can upgrade to the Humvee water pump which has twice the GPH, The Duramax Fan and Kennedy Clutch which has a special calibration and engages lower.
I could go into a long rant about V belts and 6.2s but would rather focus on Keeping the hybrid system but with serp belt.
 

6x6TRex

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Also I'm no ace with electric but any reason I could not just use one 24v alt ?? Or would that interfere with the split voltages ? Or cause an uneven charging with one battery supplying the 12v stuff ?
Because 98% of the electrical on a CUCV is 12 volts, only thing thats 24 volts is the starter, glow plugs and slave plug, so you would have a major uneven charging problem.

If you really want to keep the truck 24 volt and have a serp belt setup look into the 6.5 dual alternator options for ambulances/tow trucks, might be something there that would work.
 

6x6TRex

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Could you just use multi batter isolator like say a boat uses? Each battery can be jumped/charged independently.
A battery isolator is more designed around using one 12 volt alternator to charge 2 separate batteries so it wouldn't work for the CUCVs combined 12/24 volt system as there's no way to get 24 volts from it.
 

tim292stro

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But a vanner/equalizer would do exactly what you want. One 24V alternator across two 12V batteries, even with 12V loads only pulling from one battery, it'll charge the 12v battery properly.
 

6x6TRex

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But a vanner equalizer would do exactly what you want.
That might work as its an equalizer and not a regular standard isolator. That vanner is a heck of a lot different than the battery isolator in your boat or in my plow truck.

The vanner is costly though ($350 for a used one on a popular auction site) and if it ever fails you have no cheap way to fix it. I would look into finding an isolated alternator that will work with the 6.5s dual alternator setup over using the vanner.
 

6x6TRex

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I use to work at NAPA and did this on alternators for older tractors (99% of the time swapping pulleys the opposite way we're trying to go here) but it could be as simple as finding a serpentine pulley that will fit the stock isolated alternator and building a custom bracket to mount it.
 

tim292stro

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That might work as its an equalizer and not a regular standard isolator. That vanner is a heck of a lot different than the battery isolator in your boat or in my plow truck.
Right but OP was asking about the possibility of using just one 24V alternator - follow this train of posts:

...Also I'm no ace with electric but any reason I could not just use one 24v alt ?? Or would that interfere with the split voltages ? Or cause an uneven charging with one battery supplying the 12v stuff ?
Because 98% of the electrical on a CUCV is 12 volts, only thing thats 24 volts is the starter, glow plugs and slave plug, so you would have a major uneven charging problem...
But a vanner/equalizer would do exactly what you want. One 24V alternator across two 12V batteries, Even with 12V loads only pulling from one battery, it'll charge the 12v battery properly.
Charging a pair of series 12V batteries with a single 24V alternator and supplying both 24V loads and 12V loads is SPECIFICALLY what a Vanner/equalizer is for.

Here re the two ways the manual shows it being hooked up:
BatteryEqualizerA.png
BatteryEqualizerB.jpg
 

tim292stro

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( * might be easier to just leave it alone unless it's really broken * )

[thumbzup]

The dual alternator setup is actually the most practical setup considering how GM built the truck - you already have a "spare" should your low-side (GND-12V) alternator go out, remember that in a military application getting a NATO jump wasn't hard.

A Vanner/equalizer is more or less a voltage regulator. It takes the high-voltgae (24V) input and sets the low-voltage (12V) output to half. This ensures that even if you are drawing from the low battery (GND-12V), it makes up for the draw by taking power form the 24V combination and "bucking" it down to 12V - which effectively turns your 12V loads into a 24V load.


You could build your own if you have the talent, you just need to take any off-the shelf buck regulator design and trick out the error amplifier in the regulator to refer the regulator output to half on the input voltage (they are normally designed to hit a set-point, but you can make the setpoint an effect of the 1/2-input voltage error).
 
Last edited:

acesneights1

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You have a valid point. The main reason I wanna keep the 24v is for the NATO jumper system. I also have the 3/4 impact gun that runs off it. I think I will have to make an isolated alt fit where the a/c went. Now on the factory M1008/9 etc the alts are identical correct ? If I run a CS130 on the grounded alt and the factory delco (12si ??) isolated in conjunction any issues with mismatched alts ?
 
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