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Want to see pics of gov. locker in CUCV's

Westech

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well that's what lock outs/hubs are for. You can unlock the front axle when not off roading or such. I am looking about installing a lockrite or a gov lock in the front. A lockrite is 300 or so and I can get a used gov loc for 100 bucks. But yes it will work in the front of a 09 just fine.
 

hobie237

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I was referring more to the "in between" situations- not the street, not mud, somewhere in between when you're in 4WD but you don't necessarily want a locker (or any limited slip) in the front.
 

Westech

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well with the gov lock to get the wheels to lock there has to be around a 100 RPM difference in wheel speed... so for ez driving it will act like a open dif. Really a gov lock is a good way to go in the front.. just you have to set it up and a lot of people have no idea how to do that. You will always have more ware on the drive train when the T case is in 4x4, with a open or gov lock that ware will be a lot less then with a lockrite or a "full time" locked front end. Butt yes turning while the wheels are locked is a PITA!
 

DMgunn

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I used to run a locker in my front axle. It was a handful on ice, and of course when powering through a turn (not a good idea, btw), but boy would it hook up! I think, though, that a Gov-Pop will be gentler in turns than a real locker and easier to live with in general, but still give excellent traction.

Well, at least for a couple minutes, anyway :oops:.
 

bigflew

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alpena michigan
im not too woried about streetability thats what hot rods are for) i just dont like it when tires are not doing anything when im stuck. (kind of having an unloaded gun) one more thing GL post these as 3/4 ton they look like 1/2 ton axles to me.
thanks for the info.
 

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hobie237

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They are half ton axles. The truck is rated for 3/4 ton, just like the 1008s are rated for 5/4 ton, because the military rates them based on actual capacity rather than calling them "half ton" just because that's how we know them.

Anyway, for off road use, I think you could do WAY better than the stock 1009 axles and a gov-bomb.
 

AJMBLAZER

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Well, what size tires are you planning on and what sort of wheeling?

BTW, skip the D60 in the rear. Waist of time when there's plenty of stronger, cheaper, and more available 14FF's out there.
 

bigflew

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alpena michigan
plans on truck are all fluid. bought from GL as non running. plan was to put in a 454 i have but when i picked up truck it ran so good it seemed a shame to change it. since then plan keeps changing sooner or later it will come together.
 

DMgunn

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Agreed on the 14 bolt - they are very good - 'bout the only thing GM has ever done right in terms of drivetrain strength (and that is not my opinion, or an exaggeration). Fortunately, GM Dana 60 fronts are relatively cheap and plentiful.
 

AJMBLAZER

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plans on truck are all fluid. bought from GL as non running. plan was to put in a 454 i have but when i picked up truck it ran so good it seemed a shame to change it. since then plan keeps changing sooner or later it will come together.
Well, for hard wheeling and tires bigger than 35's you'd probably need a D60 front. Below that a D44 or 10 bolt would serve you well.
 

realm

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I'm about to be running 33x12.50's on my 1009 with the stock 3.08 10-bolts.
Eventually if I don't blow it up, and because I know I'll never realistically swap entirely new axles into the thing, I'll just get new 4.10 gears eventually and an auburn or detroit or something more stout while I'm doing that. For my uses, that should hold up just fine 10-bolt or not. I'm not a heavy duty offroading guy. Just use it around the farm and pull folks out of mud.

Plus it's my zombie escape vehicle.
 

DMgunn

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With that gearing and tire combo, it would be a zombie disorientation vehicle with all the smoke and 6.2 rattle dominating the area.....err, I mean perimeter :roll:.
 

realm

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I got it.

Realm, just so you know with 4.10's and 33's you'd be VERY low geared and the 6.2L would not be happy.
Really? Wow, good to know.
I thought the M1008's came with 4.56 gears and 31x10.50's though, and I knew those were super slow moving and low top speed, so I thought the 4.10's was being conservative.

So using the traditional method of how I've done my past truck gear changes...
33" - 31" = 6.4% change
3.08 * 6.4% change = 3.27 ratio

So whatever the closest gear to 3.27 is, that is what I should go with?
I just thought 3.08 was too high to begin with.
 

hobie237

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You should go with whatever gear ratio is the lowest that also gives you the cruising speed you want, as a general rule of thumb. Realistic cruising speed of a stock M1008 is 55, and even at that point, the motor isn't exactly happy. Were I outfitting a dual purpose K5, I think I'd go with 3.73.
 

AJMBLAZER

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TH400+ 6.2 = no OD for high speed. That's why GM went with the 3.08's, so the M1009's could buzz down the freeways and surface streets.

The word I'm hearing on CK5 is that the ticket for running 36-37's on a M1009 is 3.73 gears. If you don't want to go that big I'd say find one of the in between ratios like 3.54 or 3.42.
I do believe there are 3.27 gears for the 8.5" 10 bolt but you won't find them in axles. You'd have to buy two sets and have them installed.
 
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