• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Was looking for a shop in or near Milwaukee to work on M1008; then did it all myself!

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
I was going to reupholster the seat today but the vinyl seat kit I got from LMC arrived damaged. Looks like it happened from the included hog ring pliers they throw in the box. Even if I was able to smooth out the indentation it would still show in the grain…
I called them and it was quite frustrating dealing with this. They need to review the pictures and then approve the return and return shipping label before a replacement can be shipped out. Then everyone wonders why people prefer Amazon…
Anyways, hopefully I’ll hear back from them by Tuesday and they send me a replacement.

E63C6D83-0C37-4446-9366-2F0012756755.jpeg340FF2BD-242D-4C6E-8907-B5A36AF7DE56.jpegF9170DAB-83C1-4107-B2B6-473243724DC9.jpeg
 

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
My seatbelts didn’t work anymore so I got some from LMC. The instructions were non-existent so I found this video on YouTube that helped out a lot.

The only hardware you actually use from their kit is the bolt to hold the belt winder to their bracket. Used the original stuff everywhere else. The guy in the video had a civy truck and uses their hardware in the top belt mount on the pillar but it doesn’t work on the CUCV… threads are different.

Btw, there is no tab on these for the seatbelt warning buzzer so I’m just going to zip tie that wire up under the dash.

75C5EC36-0B25-4047-9307-EE82C07BE8BE.jpeg1639A5E8-0791-4F32-A1ED-A9A9EA2CBD2C.jpeg9DDB7746-BF99-4644-9B2B-59AC003E15F6.jpeg
The buckles not being GM branded is kind of a bummer… I’m thinking about taking them to an interior shop or seamstress snd having them put the GM buckles on the new straps.
49F20DEC-A53F-401C-8E2F-928C20965D99.jpeg
Gotta be honest… I’m not too thrilled by the quality of most of the items from LMC… that damn Stacey David was just a shill all this time… thought I could trust him 🤣
 
Last edited:

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,431
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
My seatbelts didn’t work anymore so I got some from LMC. The instructions were non-existent so I found this video on YouTube that helped out a lot.

The only hardware you actually use from their kit is the bolt to hold the belt winder to their bracket. Used the original stuff everywhere else. The guy in the video had a civy truck and uses their hardware in the top belt mount on the pillar but it doesn’t work on the CUCV… threads are different.

Btw, there is no tab on these for the seatbelt warning buzzer so I’m just going to zip tie that wire up under the dash.

View attachment 839861View attachment 839862View attachment 839863
The buckles not being GM branded is kind of a bummer… I’m thinking about taking them to an interior shop or seamstress snd having them put the GM buckles on the new straps.
View attachment 839864
Gotta be honest… I’m not too thrilled by the quality of most of the items from LMC… that damn Stacey David was just a shill all this time… thought I could trust him 🤣
I was never impressed with anything I bought from LMC. But in some cases you must get by with what you can get. I never changed any seat belts. If they worked and were intact I just rolled with them. I use my seatbelts all the time and have since 1984. In 1984 I bought a new Chevette Diesel and it had a $10,000 life insurance policy bonus on all new GM vehicles if the driver/owner died in a accident while wearing a seatbelt. I thought why not. I have been wearing them ever since and won't put the vehicle in gear till everyone has them on. I wouldn't worry about the GM buckles. You are going wild on this project. Rock On. No bracket yet.
 

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
Still waiting on parts so I decided to get the diff oil changed out. The rear diff had a small leak, too.
9914F520-BC4C-449E-AF20-BDC9D578F108.jpeg07D2C77B-F258-445D-8A01-245404F029A1.jpeg1F802BA1-18ED-43E3-856B-8F1055C2C920.jpeg
Any recommendations on gear oil?

I bought these new covers last year when I first got the truck. I’ll finally get to put them on now! I got the felpro gaskets but should I use them in conjunctions with RTV or just RTV alone?
D5C4D6C3-F931-4269-BB14-1CC9B909F207.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,711
19,750
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Awesome, thanks! I edited my post right before you responded to ask about the diff covers. You recommend gasket and RTV or just RTV alone?
.
I would use the gasket. A light coat of RTV - if you feel the need.
Getting the face of the housing good and clean is the only way to "make it stick".

Plain 80w90 gear oil should be a good lube.
 

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
Ok great. The factory stuff was stuck on with silicone and that’s great and all but makes for a real chore in pulling them off for the next time. I hit them with the robloc disc really lightly to clean off all the crud. They’re pretty clean now.

Should I be able to use the felpro gaskets the same as the lube lockers?
Thanks guys
0206C6C9-EF52-4513-8EE8-2386203A232E.jpeg40C906C3-D361-4A9D-9D3F-924FE5E81262.jpeg949D9471-0FAC-42B7-BA81-5F2893B05289.jpeg
 

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
Nevermind, I went ahead and ordered the lube locker gaskets. I see that they are superior and have a bead on them to make a good seal. I’d rather wait a couple days and use better stuff. I will take the felpros back. Thanks!
 

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
I just got the alternators back.. they look pretty good but when I was checking them out one of them had a squeak when spinning the pulley. I asked the guy about it and at first he said it was the felt that’s pushed against the bearing and it will wear down. I took it out to the car and played with it and went back in and asked if he was sure there wasn’t anything wrong and he assured me there’s all new bearings in them and then he said that it’s the brushes rubbing (or something to that effect) and that he guarantees the sound will go away after running them. Kinda put a bad taste in my mouth because I paid good money for an “overhaul” on these…. We will see
8F33E7BB-CFBC-4220-BE96-A8AFF4E1D268.jpeg
 

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
You'll never hear that squeak in that rattle trap 6.2. All is well. While you have the differentials open I have to ask if you serviced the wheel seals and wheel bearings?
Yeah I hope so man. Because the guy kinda gave me a bad vibe and didn’t seem to even care after I handed over the money. There are two owners of that business and one handles the starters and the other handles the alternators. I had a really good experience with the starter guy. But I digress.

No I haven’t done the wheel seals or bearings. At this point I can’t really add on more things to the job because I feel a tension in the air at the house. I feel that my brothers wife really wants me gone. I need to finish what I’m doing and hit the road.
 

retro_life

Well-known member
243
629
93
Location
Los Angeles, California
LMC refunded me for the seat cover and told me to keep it.. I will see if I can salvage it and get that indent out as good as I can. They told me I was SOL on the $35 shipping charge though… probably the last time I order anything from them.
 

chevymike

Well-known member
597
463
63
Location
San Diego, CA
Nice work. I used the same diff covers front and rear and Lube Locker gaskets. Only issue was on the front cover. I recall one hold being slightly off and needed a little file work to open the hole up. Before you put your gaskets on, double check all the bolts will thread in.
 
Top