Was looking for a shop in or near Milwaukee to work on M1008; then did it all myself!

[retro_life]

Hey everyone. I have a M1008 that runs great except it's got a fuel leak and a few missing teeth on the flexplate (sometimes it will land on a dead spot and require the motor to be turned over by hand to get it started again.)

I originally picked the truck up from North Dakota about a year ago. The truck only had 45k miles and started right up out of the surplus yard. I drove it ~800 miles to my brothers house in Wisconsin. It's been sitting there ever since while I went back home to California.

I am currently back in Wisconsin with plans of getting these issues fixed and doing a road trip across the country back to California.

The leak appears to be coming from the IP so I plan on replacing it. Since I am in Wisconsin I paid a visit over to Badger Diesel in the morning and I ordered a rebuilt IP and also some new injectors. He said they should be ready by the end of the week.

I am fairly mechanically inclined, but the IP kinda scares me and I really don't wanna mess up my truck. I called around to a few local diesel shops I found on google and was either met with "We don't work on anything that old" or "we'll have to get back to you after we research what it all entails" So I am looking for either a shop that knows the 6.2 well, or even a fellow forum member that has done this job before that would be willing to help me out.

I also bought a new flexplate, but I figure a transmission shop can help me out with that.

I'd also really like to have the whole truck gone over and see whatever else I need to do to make sure I'm as safe as possible during my trek back home.

Hope this post doesn't come off annoying, I'm just really in a bind and want to try to get this done so I can go on this adventure while I have the time.

I'm not looking for cheap or free work either, and I supposed I can travel a ways, as the truck does run fine besides the fuel leak.

I really appreciate it! Thank you!

 

[cucvrus]

Do it yourself. If you have a level area to work and can take your time everything you listed is fairly easy. No need to drop the transmission to swap the flex-plate. Easy as can be. If you have basic tools and slight mechanical knowledge I am sure you can be talked thru from a far. Report back if interested. What do you want to tackle first? No Fear. It's a Simple Task. And once you do it yourself you will be proud and save lots of money. Have a Great Day.

 

[retro_life]

Do it yourself. If you have a level area to work and can take your time everything you listed is fairly easy. No need to drop the transmission to swap the flex-plate. Easy as can be. If you have basic tools and slight mechanical knowledge I am sure you can be talked thru from a far. Report back if interested. What do you want to tackle first? No Fear. It's a Simple Task. And once you do it yourself you will be proud and save lots of money. Have a Great Day.

I appreciate the encouragement, and I really am considering taking on the project myself. The injector pump would be first on the list, but I'm really worried about getting the timing correct as I don't have the proper tools for that.

 

[cucvrus]

No special tools needed. Fear not. I will walk you thru that and you will be amazed at how simple it is. Let me know when you are ready to begin. Get a nice level shaded place and put a sheet of wood or cardboard under the truck. If you are on the grass it helps so if parts fall such as nuts and bolts you are not searching for them. You got this. You need a set of metric sockets deep and shallow and a few other basic tools.

 

[retro_life]

Well I contacted one of the more reputable shops for cucvs and they quoted me $1800 just to install the IP and injectors.. I knew it wouldn’t be cheap but that seems a little excessive. If that’s the going rate I’m probably gonna have to just man up and go for it myself. Still sleeping on what to do for now.

 

[Skinny]

IP replacement should run 4 maybe 5 hours. Anymore and they are robbing you. They are simple as lomg as you line the timing mark up you are golden. Biggest issue is not dropping the three bolts down the timing cover. No pressure!
I did a flexplate by gettimg longer bellhousing bolts. Swap them out, slide the trans back, just enough room to get in there.

There is no magic on those two jobs. Just time, nothing special. You will feel good after doing the work yourself and save a ton of money.

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[cucvrus]

Well I contacted one of the more reputable shops for cucvs and they quoted me $1800 just to install the IP and injectors.. I knew it wouldn’t be cheap but that seems a little excessive. If that’s the going rate I’m probably gonna have to just man up and go for it myself. Still sleeping on what to do for now.

If it were me I would change the pump and go from there. The delivery nozzles were bad only a few times and only one or 2 on the same truck. I had them checked on occasion with a pop off tool and they sprayed fine. I would change the injection pump and try it from there. No use throwing money around at things just to gain nothing. I know you can do this job. A swivel 15MM socket is about the only special tool I know. You may also need a thin kerf 15mm open end wrench but you can by without it. Let's do things. Stolen from Home Depot.

 

[cucvrus]

Another thought. Send me a 2 way airplane ticket and I will fly out and change the pump. I can bring my own tools. It would be less then 1/2 of that $1800. quote. Good Luck. Let me know when you want to begin. Get your tool box ready.

 

[retro_life]

Another thought. Send me a 2 way airplane ticket and I will fly out and change the pump. I can bring my own tools. It would be less then 1/2 of that $1800. quote. Good Luck. Let me know when you want to begin. Get your tool box ready.

Honestly man, thanks so much. You're a very nice person and I appreciate your willingness to help me out. Another issue with me taking on this job is also that I am at my brothers house and I'm trying not to upset him or his wife by taking on a big job in his driveway. Probably wouldn't care, but I'm just trying to be considerate and respect his space. I already feel bad for leaving the truck here all this time taking up space in his driveway. If I was back at home I'd be more than willing to tinker as I'd be able to comfortably take my time, etc.

Good news is I heard back from a local shop that has really good reviews, and the gentleman there is an older guy that has a lot of experience with the 6.2. He quoted me around $800 to do the IP and injector install and he said he can knock it out later this month. He also knows the owner of Badger Diesel and said some good things when I told him I sourced the pump from him. (The more expensive shop didn't say anything bad about Badger, but was trying to tell me that they didn't really trust pumps not purchased through them, and that if there was any problems with it I'd have to pay another $1200 for them just to take it out and replace it again. Their pump was also about double the price.) So I'm feeling better now dealing with some local people that know each other.

The local shop said they can also take care of the flexplate for me, but they didn't give me a quote on that yet, but I expect it to be reasonable. I think they want to remove the transmission to do it. I was thinking about asking them if they could use the longer bolt method and slide it back instead of removing it in case it would be cheaper. But at the same time, I was also thinking it may be good to have them pull everything and have the tranny, transfer case and torque converter checked out since it will all be off. What do you think?

After the big jobs are done I'm going to want them to go over the truck and probably service the axles, etc also. Any other preventative maintenance things you recommend I have them check out?

And I don't want to get too ahead of myself for now, but I'm also planning on putting on some bigger tires and a lift when it's all done, because I want to bring the RPMs down on the highway. I was thinking 37" tires and a 4 or 6 inch lift. Any recommendations or advice on that?

Thanks so much

 

[ehuppert]

Belts, hoses, any rubber bits that may be old. Check/change fluids..... Anything that could leave you stranded in Bum you know what.... Parts are a lot cheaper when they're available and you're not broke down!

As for tires and lift, I would recommend NOT going that route. A re-gear or better yet, overdrive transmission would be money better spent! (Gear vendors OD?) Lifted trucks look cool, but generally ride/drive like crap, or require allot of additional parts and work to make it drivable. And, the 6.2 will not like tires that tall! If you want an over the road, nice ride, this isn't the right truck, buy newer....

On a side note: I have 285 75 16's on my unlifted truck, and it's a pita to get in and out of! It's a bitch getting old...

 

[retro_life]

Belts, hoses, any rubber bits that may be old. Check/change fluids..... Anything that could leave you stranded in Bum you know what.... Parts are a lot cheaper when they're available and you're not broke down!

As for tires and lift, I would recommend NOT going that route. A re-gear or better yet, overdrive transmission would be money better spent! (Gear vendors OD?) Lifted trucks look cool, but generally ride/drive like crap, or require allot of additional parts and work to make it drivable. And, the 6.2 will not like tires that tall! If you want an over the road, nice ride, this isn't the right truck, buy newer....

On a side note: I have 285 75 16's on my unlifted truck, and it's a pita to get in and out of! It's a bitch getting old...

Thanks for your input. Two reasons I was thinking to go with a lift/bigger tires is because I was told (by the more expensive shop) that I would be looking at around $2200 per axle to have them re-geared to 4.10 or 3.73 because of the labor involved in changing the carriers. That just totally blew my mind and I'd feel really foolish spending that kind of money on something that can't even be seen (and also cost as much as I paid for the truck...) Also, I'd rather keep my 4.56 gears anyway since that is one of the awesome things about these trucks.

Honestly, I do prefer the look of the truck as is, and I'd also prefer to keep the stock wheels, but it sounded like bigger tires would be the most cost effective way to bring the RPMs down. I just don't wanna drive 2000+ miles at 55mph with the engine screaming.

I've read about the Gear Vendors OD, but I know that's around $3k and I'll also need some other parts to go with it and also a shortened drive shaft. Also how rugged are they? I'm probably not going to be doing any extreme off-roading, but I don't want another thing that can fail if I wanna go out and have some fun in the mud.

I love this truck and I plan on keeping it so I don't mind putting some money into it to make it nice. I just wanna do everything the right way the first time around, so I really appreciate the advice.

 

[Curtisje]

Honestly man, thanks so much. You're a very nice person and I appreciate your willingness to help me out. Another issue with me taking on this job is also that I am at my brothers house and I'm trying not to upset him or his wife by taking on a big job in his driveway. Probably wouldn't care, but I'm just trying to be considerate and respect his space. I already feel bad for leaving the truck here all this time taking up space in his driveway. If I was back at home I'd be more than willing to tinker as I'd be able to comfortably take my time, etc.

Good news is I heard back from a local shop that has really good reviews, and the gentleman there is an older guy that has a lot of experience with the 6.2. He quoted me around $800 to do the IP and injector install and he said he can knock it out later this month. He also knows the owner of Badger Diesel and said some good things when I told him I sourced the pump from him. (The more expensive shop didn't say anything bad about Badger, but was trying to tell me that they didn't really trust pumps not purchased through them, and that if there was any problems with it I'd have to pay another $1200 for them just to take it out and replace it again. Their pump was also about double the price.) So I'm feeling better now dealing with some local people that know each other.

The local shop said they can also take care of the flexplate for me, but they didn't give me a quote on that yet, but I expect it to be reasonable. I think they want to remove the transmission to do it. I was thinking about asking them if they could use the longer bolt method and slide it back instead of removing it in case it would be cheaper. But at the same time, I was also thinking it may be good to have them pull everything and have the tranny, transfer case and torque converter checked out since it will all be off. What do you think?

After the big jobs are done I'm going to want them to go over the truck and probably service the axles, etc also. Any other preventative maintenance things you recommend I have them check out?

And I don't want to get too ahead of myself for now, but I'm also planning on putting on some bigger tires and a lift when it's all done, because I want to bring the RPMs down on the highway. I was thinking 37" tires and a 4 or 6 inch lift. Any recommendations or advice on that?

Thanks so much

I had a gear vendors OD on my M1008 when I got it. I lifted it and put on 37 inch tires. I loved it. I drove with traffic 70mph on I15 no problem.

I am now rebuilding the truck and repowering with a 6.5 turbo diesel and a 4L80E transmission. I'm keeping the 37 inch tires.

You have a lot of work ahead of you. And kinks to work out once your 'finished'. Your never really finished. I'd trailer it home and do the work there. Good luck with whatever direction you go with your truck.

 

[retro_life]

I had a gear vendors OD on my M1008 when I got it. I lifted it and put on 37 inch tires. I loved it. I drove with traffic 70mph on I15 no problem.

I am now rebuilding the truck and repowering with a 6.5 turbo diesel and a 4L80E transmission. I'm keeping the 37 inch tires.

You have a lot of work ahead of you. And kinks to work out once your 'finished'. Your never really finished. I'd trailer it home and do the work there. Good luck with whatever direction you go with your truck.
View attachment 835953

Thanks for responding. Your truck looks awesome!

I would've trailered it home originally if I could've. The only problem is I don't have a trailer that's fit to tow a 6000lb vehicle.

I'm going to start off by getting the IP and flexplate fixed so it can at least be driven around Wisconsin without leaking diesel everywhere and then figure out what to do from there.

Also how tall is your lift? I didn't realize that 37s with a lift would still require fender cutting, and I would really prefer not to do that on my truck.

How was the truck running with the GVOD before the 37s? Do you know what your RPMs would've been at around 65mph with 31 or 33 inch tires?

**edit** I used an online calculator... not sure if correct but it shows with an overdrive the RPM should drop from 3300 to 2300 at 65mph with 31 inch tires... if that's true I probably should just look into the GVOD. Can anyone confirm these results?

 

[Skinny]

You can do your own homework but the gear vendors leaves a lot to be desired considering how much money it costs. Your best bet if you are strapped for money is larger tires. If you have the money for a transmission then a 4L80 or 6L80 is a much better choice.

Of course for that money you can probably swap an LS with the matching transmission and it also comes with new accessories including an air conditioner compressor. But that is for a whole other conversation.

Don't feel bad about time your truck up in somebody's driveway. If they let you do that you know they are a true friend.

Sliding the transmission back using longer bolts is really just a trick if you are in a driveway with limited resources. A shop is just going to Simply use a transmission jack to pull the drivetrain out of it. Also a good time to do the transmission torque converter pump seal at the same time.

Sorry but whoever said lifted trucks ride like junk can go right back to the 80's. My lifted k-30 rides and steers better with new leaf springs and crossover, much better than those jittery independent suspension trucks they sell today brand new.

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[Curtisje]

Thanks for responding. Your truck looks awesome!

I would've trailered it home originally if I could've. The only problem is I don't have a trailer that's fit to tow a 6000lb vehicle.

I'm going to start off by getting the IP and flexplate fixed so it can at least be driven around Wisconsin without leaking diesel everywhere and then figure out what to do from there.

Also how tall is your lift? I didn't realize that 37s with a lift would still require fender cutting, and I would really prefer not to do that on my truck.

How was the truck running with the GVOD before the 37s? Do you know what your RPMs would've been at around 65mph with 31 or 33 inch tires?

**edit** I used an online calculator... not sure if correct but it shows with an overdrive the RPM should drop from 3300 to 2300 at 65mph with 31 inch tires... if that's true I probably should just look into the GVOD. Can anyone confirm these results?

I put the 37s on right away so I cannot answer the rpm question.

I don't like the GV OD. You can't fix them if they break because GV won't sell parts, only whole units. They have a weak link while reversing so they are probably best used in lighter vehicles from what I have researched. Mine was shuddering while decelerating so I removed the control box and used a toggle switch to operate it while I drove the truck.

The benefit of the OD tranny is a locking torque converter which will prolong the life of the tranny by keeping temps down... plus the obvious lower rpm and higher highway speeds that we all like.

I don't like lifting my trucks anymore than neccessary to clear the tires. I only had the truck lifted 1" in that picture. I did a lot of trimming and I still rub the front tires offroad. My rebuild includes 2 inch lift softride springs and a 2 inch body lift. A 6" lift should clear the 37s without any fender trimming.

I run 37s on my M1028 Wrecker with a 4 inch lift and it still rubs in the front offroad. No trimming on this rig... yet.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

If that’s the going rate I’m probably gonna have to just man up and go for it myself. Still sleeping on what to do for now.

If you are going to own one of these, either hit the lottery or dig in and get dirty. There's not much room in between those.


They really are simple, though. You can do it.


One thing to be really, REALLY careful about - the electrical system is different from what almost all mechanics are used to. We have heard plenty of horror stories on this forum of trucks being ruined by ignorant mechanics trying to "fix" something that "couldn't be right", but was really just fine.

Be very careful about letting any shop mess with anything electrical, unless you are SURE they know CUCVs, NOT JUST DIESELS!!!!

 

[ehuppert]

Your RPM calc is close. Going to the larger tires only nets 2-300 rpm, not substantial in my opinion! A .75 OD will get you roundabout 23-2400 rpm at 65 with a 33" tire

Going to 37's will require large lift, rims, tires, crossover steering, fender modification etc. When you tally up the price of doing this "properly" so it doesn't ride like CRAP (like back in the 80's?) you're most likely close, or exceeded the cost of installing some sort of OD unit. Especially if you're paying someone else to do the work!

Back to probably the most important question: What's your intended long term use of this truck? If you're trying to get it back home to Ca to be a run about truck, have it shipped! Will be cheaper, and safer than driving. If this is a cross country drive, adventure....different story!

My 1008 has been a nut and bolt restoration based on my needs, not a historical restoration. In my case it's a work/plow truck. I went with a little taller tire (285 75 16) in a 10 ply as I also use this off road for moving firewood!

Have dealt with this sort of dilemma many times before! Worked/managed a automotive restoration shop after military retirement. Often had to lead customers down the right path for work needed or "wanted". Just for fun: Customer from NYC (with a weekend home upstate) decided his new to him, overpriced Series 2 rover needed a winch. Looked at vehicle, determined frame horns had been previously patched and needed replaced prior to winch install. Then noticed the dual battery system installed prior to us was not set-up properly and 2nd battery could receive charge, but there was NO output to anything!! Then decided the stock 37 amp Lucas alternator was not sufficient to run headlights, much less a winch! That required a fabrication of brackets and GM alternator install (brackets not available for alt conversion on diesels!). Bottom line.... Several thousand dollars later winch has been installed, looks great, will work if needed, but probably hasn't been used in the several years since install. I had advised against all this, but customer insisted!!!!

So, intended use? And after that is determined, budget?

 

[chevymike]

I picked up a lightly used GV OD and installed it on my M1010. It has really made it better for driving as 65mph is 2500-2600 RPM with 33" tires. If you have stock 31" tires, you can add about 300 or so RPM's to those numbers. I am running 255/85-16 tires (33") which require no lift and they do not rub.

On benefit of doing a GV is, this can easily be installed in a day, in your driveway. The unit itself only takes a couple ours to install. The longest part is doing the wiring, so it is cleanly installed.

A couple downsides is, you can ONLY use this in 2WD. That's not a big deal, as non of my 4x4 rigs did I use OD while offroading. Other downside is, it adds a lot of extra length to the drivetrain.

I am considering swapping to a 4L80E when I do my 7.4L (454) engine swap.

FYI, the GV I picked up has a fixed output yoke, so I am using a splined driveshaft. I liked this so if I have any problems with the GV, I can unbolt the driveshaft and still use FWD.

 

[retro_life]

Your RPM calc is close. Going to the larger tires only nets 2-300 rpm, not substantial in my opinion! A .75 OD will get you roundabout 23-2400 rpm at 65 with a 33" tire

Going to 37's will require large lift, rims, tires, crossover steering, fender modification etc. When you tally up the price of doing this "properly" so it doesn't ride like CRAP (like back in the 80's?) you're most likely close, or exceeded the cost of installing some sort of OD unit. Especially if you're paying someone else to do the work!

Back to probably the most important question: What's your intended long term use of this truck? If you're trying to get it back home to Ca to be a run about truck, have it shipped! Will be cheaper, and safer than driving. If this is a cross country drive, adventure....different story!

My 1008 has been a nut and bolt restoration based on my needs, not a historical restoration. In my case it's a work/plow truck. I went with a little taller tire (285 75 16) in a 10 ply as I also use this off road for moving firewood!

Have dealt with this sort of dilemma many times before! Worked/managed a automotive restoration shop after military retirement. Often had to lead customers down the right path for work needed or "wanted". Just for fun: Customer from NYC (with a weekend home upstate) decided his new to him, overpriced Series 2 rover needed a winch. Looked at vehicle, determined frame horns had been previously patched and needed replaced prior to winch install. Then noticed the dual battery system installed prior to us was not set-up properly and 2nd battery could receive charge, but there was NO output to anything!! Then decided the stock 37 amp Lucas alternator was not sufficient to run headlights, much less a winch! That required a fabrication of brackets and GM alternator install (brackets not available for alt conversion on diesels!). Bottom line.... Several thousand dollars later winch has been installed, looks great, will work if needed, but probably hasn't been used in the several years since install. I had advised against all this, but customer insisted!!!!

So, intended use? And after that is determined, budget?

Thanks for responding. Sounds like I need an OD transmission and now I just need to decide which route to go for that.

My intended use on this truck is to get it mechanically sound so I can cruise it around and have fun with it. I do want to get it back home to California, but TBH I've been stuck at home for so long during all this BS that happened in the last year and I really want to go on an adventure road trip. I don't wanna just straight shot back to CA either, I wanna stop and see the country and also some friends along the way. I also may be starting a new job soon and once I do that I won't have any time to do something like this. I'm usually the type to always try to do my own work on things not only to save money, but also because I'll know the job was done right. And I still might, but I wanted to at least have a backup plan-- so I'm happy I found this local shop that I can turn to if I need.

I'm not going to be doing any major towing with it or any crazy off-roading. I just really enjoy driving the old square body with the diesel in it, and with no computer systems. I prefer to keep it that way as much as possible. A controller for the transmission is fine.

Budget is definitely going to be more than I would like to spend, but I feel like I have no choice because I don't wanna be abusing the motor while cruising on the highway.

So from what I've gathered I can either go with a GVOD, 700r4, or a more modern 4L80E. Can someone with experience please chime in with some pros and cons, what I'll need besides the transmissions/units and projected prices?

I really appreciate all you guys. This is a really nice community here and you're all really helping me out.

 

[Skinny]

700r4 is great for the ratios, lower first and taller overdrive. Also no electronics. Downsides it is a 700r4 so if heavy duty use is in the picture better spend the money on the hard parts.

4L80 is essentially a TH400 with an oerdrive so gears will be the same except that it will click into overdrive and put a smile on your face. Converter also locks making it more efficient and lowers cruise rpm like mentioned before. Also very rugged stock.

I would almost say if you plan on having a gutless engine forever the 700r4 would be the best bet. If you ever plan on getting a real engine dont waste the money. Just go right to a 4L80. The 700r4 has slightly better ratios for a 6.2 diesel. The best one is a 6L80 but its expensive in every regard. But 4:1 1st gear and double overdrives is butter!

IMO what you gain in ease of installation from a GV you lose in every other regard and its not like its saving you money in the process. I have the same money in an 8.1 4L80 205 swap so to me its a band aid unless you have no other option.

To the guy with the dually, do yourself a favor and get crossover steering, then redrill the front axle perches an inch and a quarter forwadd. This will get you some much needed fender clearance near the firewall. Plus it will actually steer with one finger.

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