Water pump + timing chain cover gaskets and Composite Lights

[Capt.Marion]

1st question: Do I need to get the gaskets for the water pump if I use RTV sealer, or do I use RTV by itself?

2nd question: Do I use RTV sealer with my gasket I already have for my timing chain cover

3rd question: Can I use the new-style composite tail and marker lights on my '62 M37B1, or do I have to use the original style ones? I know they aren't original, but I want something functional and that I'll be able to get parts for for a long time...

Thanks!
Ken

EDIT: Would there be anything in positions A, B, or C on my truck? I know I am missing my hand throttle so that would go in one of those places... The previous owner added the clock in position A and the hour meter in position C...

 

[hippiedude]

If at all possible use gaskets & RTV together... Idon`t like using RTV alone but you can make agasket if you need to...you can buy rolls of gasket materal at any auto parts store

 

[Capt.Marion]

awesome, thanks.

 

[bigbee]

Standard M37 dash-
A would be blank steel
B would be throttle cable
C would be fording cables to close vents
under C would be the choke cable

 

[Capt.Marion]

awesome, thanks!

 

[CGarbee]

Since the other guys have answered the rest, I'll take the composite tailight question...

You can use the current production composit tailights (and front marker lights for that matter) on a M37 with a slight modification. The mounting holes drilled in the tailight bracket are about a quarter inch too high for the composit light to bolt up to the bracket (top of the light hits the bottom of the bed), so drill a new pair of holes just under the current ones and bolt the lights up. Depending on your wiring harnes, you may have to tweak the connectors (metal/rubber plugs) and or adjust wiring (M37B1 should have service and blackout stop/tail/turn on both sides, but you never know what the exact wiring harness is on your truck till you look...) to get all the circuits on both sides (run jumpers from one side to the other if you are missing a function...).

The one instance where you will not be able to fit a modern composit light onto the rear of a M37 is if it is a USMC varient since the USMC rear shackle relocater/light protector bracket is in the way (bottom of the light runs into the bracket). I've known folks to just remove the bracket (loose a bit of the truck's USMC identity this way), or to fabricate a new bracket with a greater "drop" to it.

For the front, you have to extend the hole where the wires that come out of the back of the light housing are routed through the mounting bracket. Just take a saw and cut a relief below the hole so that it becomes keyhole shaped and you can bolt up a composit light to the bracket and the wires will not be pinched.

Both tweaks should be fairly obvious if you have the composit lights in hand while looking at the brackets and wiring. If not, hollar.

Good luck.

 

[ARMYMAN30YearsPlus]

I can tell you if you are doing engine work spend the extra money and use right stuff without a gasket it is about the same price but I have rebuilt a lot of engines using that alone and never had a leak. Follow the directions on the can it is dispensed like a can of cheese spread. The first time I used it I rebuilt my brother in laws three cylnder diesel tractor and started it about fifteen minutes after the last pan bolt was tight and it did not leak a drop.

 

[WillWagner]

Remember, SILICONE and oil don't mix. The oil will atack the silicone and turn it into a goo, then a leak starts. Use a good RTV silicone based adheasive.The grey stuff is what I use. Loctite 5999 works real good. I have a truck load of the stuff Cummins uses. If it can be sent thru the mail, i'll send ya some if you want.

 

[Capt.Marion]

awesome. thanks, but no thanks, willwagner, as it would be easier to just snag some from the store next time i'm there versus shipping it across the country.

and thanks, too, cgarbee. It was a miracle from god when you got into these m37s...