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Water to air intercooler, Charge air cooler, Aftercooler...

paramedic7831

paramedic7831

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I saw this thread a while back. Not much said here about intercoolers or really anything to try to reduce EGT's besides adjusting the "mojo" fuel screw. I hate to admit it because I like modification, but engineers didn't equip it for a reason. The deuce was built when intercooler technology was available. I wonder why engineers didn’t utilize this.
 
Blackmagic94

Blackmagic94

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The stupidity in this thread is high.


An A2W or A2A intercooler core will only benefit the engine and prolong life as it will decrease IATs and EGTs if designed properly.

Personally I am thinking about doing a A2A core on my truck that I am buying next month as I have a spare core lying around from my race car. No pumps or fluids required, just have to find some space for it but I doubt that will be a big problem.



Water injection would be simple too but the cost is higher to buy and then you have to keep if filled and parts can fail compared to an A2A.
 
466Navastar

466Navastar

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the new ford scorpion diesel in 2011 f series trucks uses a air to water intercooler - I think the advantage is primarily size of the intercooler can be greatly reduced because water conducts heat much better than air.....therefore compromises because of space limitations are minimized or eliminated.
 
Gunnar1071

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Not an MV but I have run a Water to air intercooler before.

I had a buddy box in the stock intercooler on a 2004 Neon SRT4, with an inlet port at the bottom and an outlet port at the top.

Then ran the outlet to a Mercedes diesel oil cooler above the intercooler (used as a heater exchanger / radiator), then back to the 3 gallon cell in the trunk.

The entire system held just under 5 gallons and I used to pack the cell with ice at the track. An RV water pump was used and the entire system was under $250 in parts.

Had a ScanTool hooked up to it one day, after 4 passes at 25lbs of boost the IAT's were 5 degrees above ambient in 3rd gear, WOT with 3 people in the car.


It is a option, the only reason I did it was I raced the car more than I drove it. (I know, I know Fail wheel drive and a POS neon, but it was fun.)

Best run on just the turbo (never ran with the N20) was a 12.09 @117.3







 
khandoh

khandoh

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Gunnar1071 said:
Not an MV but I have run a Water to air intercooler before.

I had a buddy box in the stock intercooler on a 2004 Neon SRT4, with an inlet port at the bottom and an outlet port at the top.

Then ran the outlet to a Mercedes diesel oil cooler above the intercooler (used as a heater exchanger / radiator), then back to the 3 gallon cell in the trunk.

The entire system held just under 5 gallons and I used to pack the cell with ice at the track. An RV water pump was used and the entire system was under $250 in parts.

Had a ScanTool hooked up to it one day, after 4 passes at 25lbs of boost the IAT's were 5 degrees above ambient in 3rd gear, WOT with 3 people in the car.


It is a option, the only reason I did it was I raced the car more than I drove it. (I know, I know Fail wheel drive and a POS neon, but it was fun.)

Best run on just the turbo (never ran with the N20) was a 12.09 @117.3







Click to expand...

You really cant put down the neon. I dare you to find a cheaper platform for a weekend BS race car.
 
patracy

patracy

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Psssst.....

Intercooling is nice.

A Turbo with a good map is better. Way better than a undersized turbo blowing through a intercooler.
 
Lonesome715

Lonesome715

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This is an interesting thread. I have been taking measurements and trying som mock ups on my deuce with the intention of installing an intercooler. However, what you have in mind appears to be simpler. I am very interested to see hwo this turns out.
 
jwaller

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Blackmagic94 said:
I'm thinking water injection is gonna be easier to install
Click to expand...
yup, it is. I did mine in about 2 hrs and aside from checking the water when you check the oil, it's been a completely bullet proof system for about 3-4 years now.. if for any reason the system fails you instantly see it on the egt gauge and you know to let off or take other measures. Water injection systems have been around nearly as long as the internal combustion engine, look at many of the WWII aircraft and the gains they had with it.

I would never think of intercooling the deuce. way more time, expense, complexity, than it's worth.

your not trying for a world record to make hp here, your just looking to drop the egt's some and maybe run a bit more boost.
 
khandoh

khandoh

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samsimpson said:
1st gen eclipse. Super cheap and the bottom end can handle more boost you can throw at it.
Click to expand...
Well, it is for the most part the same engine. :) The eclipse is a fat little car. Liked the one I rented, but the thing weighs 1.5 neons. :shock:

OTOH Chrysler with there infernal pencil-pushing, penny-squeezers.... Mitsu dealt directly, but they has some play to not be so utterly disposable.
 
Blackmagic94

Blackmagic94

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jwaller said:
yup, it is. I did mine in about 2 hrs and aside from checking the water when you check the oil, it's been a completely bullet proof system for about 3-4 years now.. if for any reason the system fails you instantly see it on the egt gauge and you know to let off or take other measures. Water injection systems have been around nearly as long as the internal combustion engine, look at many of the WWII aircraft and the gains they had with it.

I would never think of intercooling the deuce. way more time, expense, complexity, than it's worth.

your not trying for a world record to make hp here, your just looking to drop the egt's some and maybe run a bit more boost.
Click to expand...
Pics of your install. What system and how big of a tank and where did you locate the tank. How much of a egt drop are you getting vs boost and how long can you go on a fill?
 
jwaller

jwaller

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Blackmagic94 said:
Pics of your install. What system and how big of a tank and where did you locate the tank. How much of a egt drop are you getting vs boost and how long can you go on a fill?
Click to expand...
I did a writeup years ago on all this but the highlights are:
system is progressive, meaning you can turn the dial and run enough water thru it to run the egt's down so low that the boost falls off.

tank is now 5 gallons and you can run about 20miles with your foot to the floor and in my case that is 22psi. so those with normal amounts of boost should be able to go 100 miles with foot to the floor.

tank is in the bed now and the nozzle is in the outlet of the turbo itself. pump is under the hood, controller is in the cab as well as map sensor.

there are led lights for system power, low tank level, a light for when the system turns on and another for when it's pressurized. the last 2 are the same light but dual color bulb. so really only 3.
 
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