Waterloo Power steering project

[cummins7]

I got started on my power steering conversion over Christmas break. I've got it all torn apart and getting ready to put the frame rienforcment plate supplied from m35tom (great guy). It seems I have a removable front cross member so I notched the rienforcment plate to fit around that. Now the first 5/8 hole your suppose to drill for the actuall gear box to be mounted is exactly in the middle of the crossmember bracket. Has anyone installed the saginaw 710 box with the removable crossmember?? This is the first one I've seen and have spent all day looking top to bottom of this site. Any help would be great as I'm renting the building by the day.

Thanks Jay

 

[doghead]

I would call and ask Tom.

 

[dmetalmiki]

No drilling needed for the air assist kit...it would help if you mentioned just what conversion you are attempting on your truck.

 

[cummins7]

It's the waterloo specialties using a saginaw 710 gear box

 

[HanksDeuce]

Take a look at my install pics of a Waterloo M35A2 PS kit at the following link: http://hanksdeuce.com/power_steering_install.htm

 

[cummins7]

For anyone that runs into this problem on there earlier frames with the removable cross member. You have to measure 2.4375" from the fender support out towards the cab and 3.000" down from the top of the frame. It has to be relatively precise because your hole will be right between the rivet holding the cross member flange and the rib on the flange. With the rib on the left and rivet on the right you can't put a nut on the back. So what I did was drill and tap it for the 5/8 bolt supplied with the kit. Use loctite and use your own judgement on the torque. Also you will have to notch the rienforcment plate to fit around the spring perch rivets and the cross member flange. I'll try to add pictures if I can figure out how to add them.

 

[m-35tom]

jay, 1 other person had that issue with an old frame and they made a notch in the cross member where it meets the frame just big enough to have the bolt and nut come through. torque on that bolt should be 150 ft lb.

 

[Jeepsinker]

If you aren't going to notch the crossmember and install the nut, at the very least you should tighten it down good and put a tack weld on the backside from the bolt to the frame. It would be best to just install the nut though as fasteners can stretch over time and get loose even if welded in place.

 

[gimpyrobb]

ALso, take and post pics!

 

[m-35tom]

it's one of only 3 bolts that holds the steering box on, needs to be tight. it is 5/8-16 and torqued to 150 ftlb, you get the picture.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Oh alright. I thought it was just a bolt to hold the reiforcement plate on. I'll undoubtedly weld mine on when I get it. Not the steering box, the reinforcement plate. Once I go power steering I'm not going back so I might as well.

 

[R Racing]

 

[m-35tom]

i don't even know if the inner reinforcement is needed, i just thought since it is steering related some over kill would not hurt. it only adds a few $$ to the kit.
tom

 

[QUADJEEPER]

i don't even know if the inner reinforcement is needed, i just thought since it is steering related some over kill would not hurt. it only adds a few $$ to the kit.
tom

I think it is a good idea. I never even gave it a thought about leaving it out. Been almost a year since I installed your kit. So far, so good. I am glad I installed it.

 

[m-35tom]

I think it is a good idea. I never even gave it a thought about leaving it out. Been almost a year since I installed your kit. So far, so good. I am glad I installed it.

for those not in the know, the picture shows the top mounting bracket, the reinforcement is inside the frame and i now remember why. there is a big notch in the frame edge for the original box and i thought the frame needed some help.
tom

 

[HanksDeuce]

Here's 2 shots of my deuce frame showing the coped out area (notch) that Tom's kit addresses with both an internal backing plate as well as the top plate.

 

[cummins7]

The backing plate is deffinately easier to bolt on then weld (unless you pull the motor). Being said if you have access to the rienforcment plate or ways to make it, use it!!! Warning to those that have to drill and tap the hole I'm questioning, your best bet is to drill it for a 5/8 bolt to fit through and use a nut on the back side. I say this to the fact that the saginaw gear box has close to a 3" thick flange that the bolt goes through. If your off buy a fraction of an inch, your gonna put a strain on the gear box to fit flush against the frame(ex. Drilling and tapping the hole crooked). Just use common sense, and think just in the worst case scenario (line breaking, and the force your putting on the system). I have pieced together my system piece by piece and learned along the way, buying the kit saves you all a lot of headache.

 

[R Racing]

The backing plate is deffinately easier to bolt on then weld (unless you pull the motor). Being said if you have access to the rienforcment plate or ways to make it, use it!!! Warning to those that have to drill and tap the hole I'm questioning, your best bet is to drill it for a 5/8 bolt to fit through and use a nut on the back side. I say this to the fact that the saginaw gear box has close to a 3" thick flange that the bolt goes through. If your off buy a fraction of an inch, your gonna put a strain on the gear box to fit flush against the frame(ex. Drilling and tapping the hole crooked). Just use common sense, and think just in the worst case scenario (line breaking, and the force your putting on the system). I have pieced together my system piece by piece and learned along the way, buying the kit saves you all a lot of headache.

Do you have a picture of the kit installed ?

 

[cummins7]

Yes I have pictures, just no way of adding them. Not to computer savvy

 

[R Racing]

Yes I have pictures, just no way of adding them. Not to computer savvy

I understand ! Just thought it would help people understand your kit better.