Alright I’ve got an m1009 that had a botched 12v swap done, so I have most of the components to swap back to 24v if I choose. Once I get a new cab harness....... anyways, eventually I’m going to add a sound system, and want to know what’s my best route for the most available wattage. Basically i’ll either go with the Roscommon split 12 setup, or stock 24v setup. I’m thinking I’ll be better with the split system after reading around on here, but I’m just curious how the 24 volt system would handle it, and what sort of wattage I could push with the stock setup, since it drops back to 12 volt. Well technically only uses one battery for most of the truck. Either way that would change the wattage. It would just be nice to have the 24 volt starter. Also if anyone happens to know, I’d like to know what sort of power is required to run the truck, like how many amps it needs to run, drive, and have lights, so I can decide if I want the head unit and components tied into the charging and starting system, and have the sub tied into the accessory system, or all of them tied into the accessory system, and eventual add ons like 360 cameras or a winch, in the starting and charging system if I go with the split 12 volt option. Sorry for the long post, I’m bad about not shutting up lol.
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Wattage/amperage question
- Thread starter Bbcjake95
- Start date
Power (watts)= I (amps) X V (Volts).
Doubling the voltage halves the current required to produce a given amount of watts.
That being said, a stereo, even a large one, can be run off a single battery just fine.
The kids do it all the time in their rice burners.
In your case, cucv, just use the front battery where the rest of your trucks 12 volt accesories gets their supply.
If you are worried about un equal wear on the batteries; swap them front to rear at oil changes.
My 2 cents.
Doubling the voltage halves the current required to produce a given amount of watts.
That being said, a stereo, even a large one, can be run off a single battery just fine.
The kids do it all the time in their rice burners.
In your case, cucv, just use the front battery where the rest of your trucks 12 volt accesories gets their supply.
If you are worried about un equal wear on the batteries; swap them front to rear at oil changes.
My 2 cents.
Well i figured it would be fine if i was just going to run the radio. But i think overall, i was looking at around a 1500-2000 watt system, with nice component sets front and rear, and a good strong sq sub. I feel like that would be pushing on the edge of the capacity of the 12 volt part of the system. And then i planned to add other accesories like lights, winch, hydronic coolant heater, camera system, and im sure i could find other electrical doodads that id like to add. So with all of that, yes i am worried about unequal discharging on the 24 volt system, and im trying to set this up to need as little wrenching as possible down the road. That brings me to my next question, with a battery equalizer, how do i figure out which amp rating i would need? if i get for example a 30 amp equalizer, is that the maximum load i can pull for the 12v stuff? Or does a higher amperage just mean it will balance the batterys faster? Basically, how does the equalizer affect my available 12v amperage. Also i realize that I'll probably never be using a winch, a bunch of lights, a coolant heater, and a camera system, all with my stereo turned on full blast... maybe, I'm pretty young and dumb...
lol. But it would also be nice to know that i could without any issues. Also id like to determine if the stock 24v system will support my wants well enough to be worth the effort and cost of converting back. If the only benefit i get is slightly better starting, while not being able to support my needs, i have no reason to hunt down a 24v starter, equalizer and all that good stuff, if the 12v system would fit me better.
lol. But it would also be nice to know that i could without any issues. Also id like to determine if the stock 24v system will support my wants well enough to be worth the effort and cost of converting back. If the only benefit i get is slightly better starting, while not being able to support my needs, i have no reason to hunt down a 24v starter, equalizer and all that good stuff, if the 12v system would fit me better.Haha, times are a changin. shoot, 2000 watts is low compared to some of todays competition setups. 750 watts for two three piece component sets, which is a pair of 6.5, 3, and tweeters, then the sub, which is highly variable depending on your setup. i think the one i was looking at, the sub could peak at 1300 or so, but ill probably only run about 800. anyways, thats where im confused, is what sort of available wattage there is with the 24/12. i know with the split 12v system, id have 2400 total watts, and 1200 of that could be devoted to audio/ accesories.
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There are still some fairly cheap generator trailers on GovPlanet.
Funny post ^
Here in Wyoming I am lucky to get Glenn Beck or Micheal Savage.. don't really like the former and can tolerate the latter.
Maybe a few country songs come through my 42 year old single sun baked speaker in my 76 K5.
Don't even have radio in my M1009.
I am just enthralled listening to all the awesome sounds the 6.2 makes.
I am getting old, I can feel it.
Times are changing.
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Yeah, maybe it is time to think about a retirement fund. I may buy stock in a hearing aid company since Bbcjake95 isn't the only one who wishes to get hearing loss.
I like your sense of humor flu. XD
Yeah, ive known that, I guess what i was asking is if the wattage drops from converting back to 12v, and after more thought I'm positive it does, it doesnt make any sense for it to retain that wattage, since voltage is part of the wattage calculation. I'm still at a loss as to how power is taken from an equalizer, and how their amp ratings work. like if the power is taken from the equalizer itself, and the amperage rating is the available amperage period, or if the amperage rating determines how quickly it can equalize, which would mean it sort of acts almost like an alternator of its amperage rating. I suppose i should start a new thread specific to equalizers and how they work, but i dont want to crowd the forum either.
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There's an awful lot of knowledge on Steel Soldiers, but somehow I don't think that high end audio systems is towards the top of the list for most members.
I would start with reading up on the equipment you want to use and its energy needs, then worry about what alternator and/or battery upgrades it takes to run that stuff.
I would start with reading up on the equipment you want to use and its energy needs, then worry about what alternator and/or battery upgrades it takes to run that stuff.
From just casually reading on battery equalizers just now, it seems that it simply monitors the current draw on each battery, and then pulls power from the other if one is being used more. Up to the 30 amp or 60 amp limit of the equalizer itself. I'm no expert in battery equalizers, but I read this page here.
http://all-about-lead-acid-batterie...ttery-management/how-battery-equalizers-work/
http://all-about-lead-acid-batterie...ttery-management/how-battery-equalizers-work/
Yes, I'm aware of that, thats why I was more asking about the basic running power usage of the cucv, so I can make an estimate of available capacity. I just figured there would probably be an electrician or something of the sort that would be able to point me in the right direction. However, while not an ideal candidate for pure sound quality, the cucv is a good platform to start with, having dual 100 amp alternators. Thats enough for the kind of good basic sub and speaker set average joe would be satisifed with, and with aftermarket alternators would be a pretty good candidate for competition use.
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I briefly read that site, must've missed that or been overthinking the process. so basically, if you have say 800 amp batteries, it would draw power, from the rear battery to the front, keeping them equal amperage, until they get down to 700 amps, and then the front would continue to drop off? eh, idk that it matters so much anymore, I think ive decided to stay 12v, because im eventually going to just do a full 6.5 swap from my 95 later down the road, and it would be too much pain to try to maintain the 24v with the 6.5 and nv4500 setup, plus its more expense on a rig that will never be true stock again anyways.
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Okay, so you basically want to know how much power two 55 Watt headlights, two 5 Watt tail lights, and so on, uses? If that's the case, I would turn everything on, including the wipers and fan, and measure the draw. Once the glow plugs stop cycling it'll probably be about the same as any vehicle of the era.
Either way, it seems to me that the simple way to get enough juice to power a hungry sound system would be to install X amount of Group 31 Optimas. Yes, the alternator(s) would not keep up, but for how long can anyone listen to several hundred Watts, anyway? A good plug-in charger over night, then good to go again.
Yeah, basically thats what im asking, but had other questions too so i compounded. I would but the vehicles inoperable right now, because the bubbad cabin harness. anywho, thats an option yes, but id rather not have a metric ton of optimas lol. And youre right, a high power cheap component system is unbearable for long, but with high sound quality components, you generally need more wattage to drive the bigger and often multiple magnets. Not for decibels, but for accurate reproduction of sound, and better response, so you dont get that rattly blown speaker kinda sound you get from cheapo parts. Anyways, thanks for your help guys, I didnt get quite the answer i was looking for, but ya did help me figure out that I dont wanna mess with a 24v conversion on this truck, because its just added complexity for my end goal.