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Weird Issue - Ignition Key won't insert all the way

79
4
8
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
My 9yo son insisted that we take out Mogster to run an errand to our assistant scout masters house. After a nice visit a few neighborhoods away and many unusual looks at the green cockroach, we stopped at the pharmacy and when I returned from the store to go home, my key would not go into the ignition. The last time I pulled the key out it was in the vertical position, and now it is like the jaws are clenched and it won't open to accept the key. Pushing down on it with some might doesn't seem to have any effect. It was already dark and after fiddling with it, I figured out that I could turn the switch without having to have the key in all the way. I made it home and went out later and shot this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGn6fbtvha4&feature=youtu.be
Has anyone run into this before? I have read this entire forum (took me two weeks) and I didn't see anything like this in here. As this would affect other similar era Mogs, hopefully someone else has seen this.

Suggestions on how to resolve this?
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
mid- michigan
My 9yo son insisted that we take out Mogster to run an errand to our assistant scout masters house. After a nice visit a few neighborhoods away and many unusual looks at the green cockroach, we stopped at the pharmacy and when I returned from the store to go home, my key would not go into the ignition. The last time I pulled the key out it was in the vertical position, and now it is like the jaws are clenched and it won't open to accept the key. Pushing down on it with some might doesn't seem to have any effect. It was already dark and after fiddling with it, I figured out that I could turn the switch without having to have the key in all the way. I made it home and went out later and shot this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGn6fbtvha4&feature=youtu.be
Has anyone run into this before? I have read this entire forum (took me two weeks) and I didn't see anything like this in here. As this would affect other similar era Mogs, hopefully someone else has seen this.

Suggestions on how to resolve this?
A new key switch , it's a 50 year old truck things wear out.
 
79
4
8
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
I was really hoping you wouldn't say that. :)

Looked at Unipaser and there is civilian for 1/4 to 1/2 the price of military ignition. Called Euro-Tech and he's going to help me out.
I try to order from all the Unimog vendors for various things to be fair in case anyone is wondering.
 
79
4
8
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
Grabbed the graphite, worked it into the lock, messed with it for a bit and (drum roll)... nope. No luck. Ignition switch has decided to retire. Will order a new one and look forward to the fun rewire. Maybe I'll make a video out of it. That's what the world needs right? More Unimog videos. Thanks again.
 

tennmogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,579
542
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Location
Greenback, TN
Hey Crunchy, you might try one other thing. These switches do not drain well. Over the years they can accumulate dirt, bug parts, rust, and whatever inside the lock. Use a can of WD-40 with the little tube, insert into the hole as far as it will go, displacing the spring cover, and spray the crap out of it. If that cleans it, then reapply the graphite. Your young 'Soldier B' didn't happen to stuff something in it, eh? :)

You will note that there are no tumblers in these locks. There really is no 'unlocking', just a means of turning the innards with the blade. You might find a replacement switch is not worth the bucks. If it still works, you are no worse off if the key is not all the way in.
 
Last edited:
79
4
8
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
The WD40 sure did clean up my dash nicely but the jaws of the ignition switch refuse to budge. I figure I left the door window off the truck last few rainstorms and it got water down in there and fouled up something that was already on the verge of collapse. I pulled out the rubber shield in the engine compartment to get a look at the wiring, doesn't look terrible as long as I label all the wires, it shouldn't be an issue. I noticed the switches range in price from civi (cheap) to military ($$$). For now the flat head screw driver and a lot of care will suffice. I supposed I could just leave it on and use the battery disconnect key (if I had one that is) instead.

I'll give it to morning and see if it gives way, it will be a week or more before I get the part in, maybe it will give way by then. If not, when I take the old one out, I'll see if it can be rebuilt or if it will be a new paperweight.

Thanks for your quick and helpful suggestions, really appreciate the guidance.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
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Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I supposed I could just leave it on and use the battery disconnect key (if I had one that is) instead.
Does that mean that you have the switch, but no key for it?
If so, don't fake it like I did, first with a twig and later a key for the same type of switch but not the correct one. That's probably why the switch doesn't seem to work quite right now.
 
79
4
8
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
Does that mean that you have the switch, but no key for it?
If so, don't fake it like I did, first with a twig and later a key for the same type of switch but not the correct one. That's probably why the switch doesn't seem to work quite right now.
I guess I wasn't clear.

The ignition switch is kaput.
I was thinking out loud when I thought that using the battery switch under the seat could serve some alternate purpose for turning the truck off, but I guess not on.

Never mind.

Ignition switch needs to be replaced. End of story.


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