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Welding on the Humvee body.

thoner7

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I cannot weld aluminum, so I called around to a few shops. One of the shops that can, thought that the Humvee had magnesium in the alloy? I have no idea- what’s the alloy they used on the body? I’m talking about the body itself and the top on my 1165.

Anything else special I should know before having some welding done?
 

simp5782

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I cannot weld aluminum, so I called around to a few shops. One of the shops that can, thought that the Humvee had magnesium in the alloy? I have no idea- what’s the alloy they used on the body? I’m talking about the body itself and the top on my 1165.

Anything else special I should know before having some welding done?
It's 6061-T6 alloy, which has magnesium and silicone. 4043 wire works well.
 

thoner7

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Thank you for that info.

Disconnect batteries obviously but anything else to know before I go at it?
 

royg

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What's the repair?

body is rather thin. TIG is the best process to weld thin aluminum.
Roof is thick and can be done with a MIG or TIG
4043 is a good choice of filler material on the HMMWV body
With aluminum it's all in the prep. you need clean, bare metal for a good weld.
Aluminum weld is generally weaker then the base material. That is two pieces welded together is weaker then 1 piece of the same dimension.
If you're filling holes, that doesn't really matter.
If you're doing something structural, the weld, even if done well, is going to the be the weakest point.
This is different then most steel fabrication. With steel, the filler mater is often of higher strength compared to the base when welded properly.
One of the reasons riveting is so common with aluminum sheet construction & why you often see sheet aluminum repaired by sandwiching another layer over a flaw.
 

thoner7

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Not sure what your doing but body panel adhesives have come a long way. Maybe an option?
Some of it is more a welding application but I had thought of adhesives. I would have no idea what products to use tho. Or for example if body filler/Bondo could be used, or even fiberglass resin, to fill small gaps if pieces were just butted and bolted down
 

lpcoating

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I'd recommend talking to your local auto paint supplier. I had a customer the used body panel adhesives for installing new body panels on his 151. While these were steel panels, he swore by it and said he'd never weld them on again. Good luck!
 

87cr250r

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There are two major panel adhesives to consider. There are polyurethane caulks and Very High Bond double sided tapes. Especially with aluminum these are not single step processes. There are conversion coatings and primers. Prep is paramount. With that said, it's worth the effort. I don't have a process for aluminum yet. I use adhesive mount fasteners all over my boat fleet to avoid the dreaded hot work permit.
 

Vapor Trail

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I know how to do the weld process properly but i decided after more than a dozen beers at 3:30 in the morning I'd start trying to patch holes. Ruined the fender. I think on some of the larger ones I am going to try to glue or tack a plate on the inside and then fill the depression with bondo. Will this work?
 

Maxjeep1

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I know how to do the weld process properly but i decided after more than a dozen beers at 3:30 in the morning I'd start trying to patch holes. Ruined the fender. I think on some of the larger ones I am going to try to glue or tack a plate on the inside and then fill the depression with bondo. Will this work?
You could back it with copper and try 1/2 dozen more beers. Some holes you won’t be able to get backing on but the majority of them you probably can. Copper will soak up the heat and weld won’t stick to it.
 

thoner7

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I don't have the whole story... simple armor bolt hole or something round (cable, radio, bullet, ??) these come in various sizes.

View attachment 892530

Plug and play... maybe paint, CAMO
Are those the bungs that fill the - for lack of Better term - antenna wire holes??

I was hoping to fill those holes with an LED light and wire them for reverse lights but, I can’t find any the right size so, those bungs would be next best option.

I am welding the top to try and close up lots of the holes and gaps to make it water tight. I’m also gonna cut some of that beam behind the front seats for more leg room. then have the metal welded back on to hopefully keep some of the strength there (even tho I am confident that with the top I have and that the Hummers had that beam removed, it’s more than strong enough without it completely.)
 

Autonomy_Lost

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You can get hole plugs in any size and multiple styles and materials from McMaster Carr. Just make sure you get the ones for the right sheet thickness. If the diameter is right but the sheet thickness is wrong it will be loose.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Are those the bungs that fill the - for lack of Better term - antenna wire holes??

I was hoping to fill those holes with an LED light and wire them for reverse lights but, I can’t find any the right size so, those bungs would be next best option.

I am welding the top to try and close up lots of the holes and gaps to make it water tight. I’m also gonna cut some of that beam behind the front seats for more leg room. then have the metal welded back on to hopefully keep some of the strength there (even tho I am confident that with the top I have and that the Hummers had that beam removed, it’s more than strong enough without it completely.)
The 92-93 H1 kept the B-pillar support brace but modified it to allow for bucket seats to recline farther back…the brace
was retained, just ”notched“ by removing 2inches or so, then an insert inserted and welded in, IMO…it was over kill, but they had to possibly adhere to FMVSS, but 94 and up had the B-pillar removed altogether.
 
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