welding replacement panels

[BFR]

I am starting to repair a tub for my m170 using CJ5 panels from classic enterprises, and I want to double check my understanding before I cut out the old metal. The flange on the panel is 1/2" wide and the transition is about 1/8". I have marked the tub where the top of the flange will end up. My plan is to make a second mark 1/2" below and parrallel to the first and then make my cut along the new line and let my welds fill the transition. any thoughts?

 

[54reo]

Although it will take longer to fit-up, I would suggest that you butt weld the panels.

No chance for water/mud/crud getting in the lamination created by the panel overlap of a flange.

 

[kc8sfq]

welding repair panels

I agree about keeping mud and such out of the lamination. If you choose to butt weld, your fit up must be METICULOUS. Even a panel's thickness of a gap will give you fits and cause even more warping. This all assumes you're using a wire feed welder (GMAW) Stick welding body panels is even more of a challenge. I've done it, but i don't recommend it. Warping is your biggest enemy. Skip all around after you get your fit right. Weld a dot here and a dot there 'til you're all welded out.

Have fun.

 

[Fat Jack]

I'd overlap the joint like you planned, and adhere to the advice about taking it slow so as to not warp the metal, and then fill/cover with seam sealer.

 

[littlebob]

There has to be a right answer and maybe it's been said already. I had to do some welding on my M35 cab and flanged some joints and butt welded the ones I could find a way to clamp them. If your a novice welder like me, you will get frustrated with the thin rusty sections of the surrondind metal you are welding to. In the door sillls I drilled an acces
hole and got some rust stopper stuff in a spray can from a paint and body supply that is suppossed to to stop the rust and coat it in one step. I guess I'll find out in a year or two.

Good Luck,
littlebob

 

[JasonS]

I replaced a section of firewall in my M35 last summer. I used a magnet to hold it in place while I tack welded the patch panel. I used 0.023 wire but I am told that there is a better wire with a powder metal core. Anyone else tried it?

 

[StreetbikeDepot]

It can be done either way, since its an exterior panel you will still need to stitch weld it completely, usually if I'm doing a large long panel like a quarter panel I will flange it help keep warping to a minimum and allow for less weld material to finish off. BUT normall I'll flange my OEM panel (with a pneumatic flanger) and then L cut and butt joint the last porting that meets the door jam, trunk jam ect.

Welding a flange is much easier for a begginer welder, plus you can locate the panel in place with drill screws to position a large panel. All factory panels are flange joints with spot welds, even quarter panel seams are flange joints that are body filled.

In your case, no larger than the panel is, you can go either way. There are more important items for you to concentrate on.

1. Stitch weld only!
2. Make sure you get adequate penetration (alot of first timers have poor penetration, then end up grinding off what poor welds they have, then it cracks)
3. Anytime you do flange a panel use a galvanized weld through coating between the panels.
4. Stitch weld it evenly across the weld joint, clamp it well before you start. Get it tacked in completely then start stitching it in.
5. Most beginners buy a gasless MIG, I cannot stress how much you don't want to weld bodypanels with flux core wire. Flux will work its way out of the weld and the you will end up seeing the welds after time through your bodywork and topcoat. Spend the little extra and get set up with solid wire and gas.

If you get stumped on how to do something, take some good pics and post them up, myself or some of the other body guys will help you out.

Take your time and have fun!

 

[devilman96]

Don't overlap... it will rust out faster. Ditto on the above welding methods... Tack then stitch it in. Keep moving to different sides of the panel, stitch an inch, move, stitch, move... Dont be scared to grind on it after...

 

[StreetbikeDepot]

one more caution.....

IF you do utilize the flange, MAKE SURE the panels are clamped tight together, any gap between them when you weld will cause some problem welding and finishing....hard to explain on here, just trust me and make sure its clamped up with zero gap.

Also this is kinda a no-brainer but you'd be suprised how much I find the backs of panels that are unprotected after a repair was made by someone else. make sure you refinish or at least undercoat the backside of your repair once its done, because your welding leaves unprotected metal on the backside. Its kinda hard on a double wall area, but you can usually get something sprayed up in there. If I looked at your pictures right I think your welding on a single wall structure like a Jeep body, so you'll have complete access to the backside.

Remember when it comes to bodywork its the attention to detail that makes your work stand out!

 

[steelsoldiers]

I did a tremendous amount of panel replacement on my 1009. I started out using a 110v flux core wire welder that I borrowed from my bro-in-law. It worked OK, but my Millermatic 210 MIG made me look like a pro. I cut and butt welded everything. It can take an extra 30 minutes to fit a complex panel perfect for butt welding, but man, it's worth it. Magnets are great for flat sections. They also sell butt welding clamps in Eastwood that work really well. The Vise-Grip panel holders work well too.

As the others have suggested, I will tack the panel in place, bending and hammering for the perfect fit as I go. Then I will stitch an inch at a time, skipping an inch or two in between to minimize warping. Once you make one pass with stitch welds, use a brush to clean up the welds and metal to give your next pass a clean surface to start with. Flap disks on an angle grinder are perfect for cleaning up big sections of welds. Plug welds are handy too. I used those to secure the new inner rockers to the outer rockers on my Blazer. They are strong, the look factory and are easy to do. NAPA sells the flexible and firm-setting seam sealer compounds in a caulk gun tube or a can.

Good luck and take lots of pics! Start in a inconspicuous spot so you can get the hang of it first before moving on to a highly visible panel.

 

[zak]

Butt weld and just take your time. This is using flux wire and worked ok for me. Gas shielding would have been better/easier. Lots of companies sell supplies for the novice. Practice on something before you attack the real thing.

 

[drgreg]

I have bought the butt weld clamps at Harbor Freight, they were about $6 for 4 clamps.