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Went and bought a turbo, why???

corelokt

corelokt

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859
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Location
Duffield, VA. (East of nowhere).
Not sure that I'll ever even use it, but...
To good to pass up. Complete off a 6.5L missing only an exhaust V clamp and flange? (not sure I got the names right). Rotor is nice and smooth, no play. Included the shorty injectors and lines. No inj. pump however. Like I said, just to good to pass up. I bought the whole block to be sure I had everything. Looks like it has an accurate diesel heat sync on the PMD box as well. Had the torque converter w/ it, I'm hoping it fits a 700R4, being a 91-93ish engine. More parts is always a good thing.
I might set it up on the spare military engine I'll be getting shortly. Add a stud girdle and a fluid damper, bolt it to the 700R4 I have, and it would be a solid go-getter, I would think
:-D
 
wayne pick

wayne pick

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Valley Cottage NY
Real nice find! Don't waste your money on a girdle, that engine doesn't need one. If that engine requires a PMD to run you will need to swap to a manual DB2 IP, no big deal. Check the date code stamp on the back of the engine. The 700R4 will bolt right up, I don't think chevy changed the trans bolt pattern untill way later if at all. I'd beef it up though, That diesel will tear up a stock 700. Good luck with it.
 
zaxcucv

zaxcucv

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Seacoast, NH
jaymcb said:
what'd you pay, and where'd you get it?
Click to expand...
My question also.

The answer to "why" in your OP - very similar to why a dog licks his you-know-what: because you could and it was there. I just bought one too...gonna wait a little before putting it on though!
 
corelokt

corelokt

Member
859
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Location
Duffield, VA. (East of nowhere).
Well, all told I have $150.00 into it. The turbo was $50.00, but I wanted the block and all the rest as well. A half tank of fuel and a day invested in the driving. I don't plan on using the block. I have a couple others from military vehicles that are not worn out.
 
zaxcucv

zaxcucv

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Seacoast, NH
corelokt said:
Well, all told I have $150.00 into it. The turbo was $50.00, but I wanted the block and all the rest as well. A half tank of fuel and a day invested in the driving. I don't plan on using the block. I have a couple others from military vehicles that are not worn out.
Click to expand...
That is a steal!
 
wayne pick

wayne pick

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Valley Cottage NY
6.5 turbo heads, wich you have, have a lower compression ratio, 18:1 and are less likely to blow head gaskets. If you turbo a J code 6.2 with a ratio of 21.5:1 and do not reduce the compression ratio by installing thicker head gaskets you run the risk of blowing head gaskets or even cracking a head. The PO of my truck put a Banks sidewinder in it and I don't think he did anything with the heads. I keep my eye on the boost guage and pyro going up steep hills for just that reason and try not to push it too hard. Remember, If you have your 6.5 heads machined you will have to go with a thicker gasket to retain the lower compression ratio and lessen the risk of valve to piston contact-no good. Turbo that J code and you'll have a big suprise the first time you drive it.:cool: Good luck, Wayne.
 
Timber

Timber

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Montgomery, AL
I've been working on my civvy K5 lately but couldn't pass up a 6.5 turbo and manifold that came up locally. That led to ebay purchases of the non-EGR intake and the 6.5 injector lines. I did not do nearly as well as you did but somehow have all the above for less than most turbos go for. Just couldn't pass it up.
 
francisf16

francisf16

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tulsa, ok
I've got mine almost ready to go on as well, just nerd the oil lines and I will be ready. I will search posts before I ask where to get those.
 
wayne pick

wayne pick

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I forgot a few things. You will have to use the 6.5 injector lines if you swap the heads as Timber stated above. they have a slightly different bend to them, trying to make the 6.2 lines work will just pi$$ you off as they might kink if you try to bend them. Also replace the 6.2 head bolts with ARP head studs, pricy at $143.00 but well worth it. Head bolts that have been re-torqued a few times strech and can cause a brand new head gasket job to fail. Do use the crank girdle on the J code motor. I had thought the 6.5 you got was a runner and you were going to swap it in. The 6.5 block you have is likely a 599 block, a keeper and if you rebuild it you could sell it as a short block or use it yourself someday.
 
francisf16

francisf16

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tulsa, ok
Timber said:
There are plenty of kits on ebay that are simple enough if you don't mind dropping the oil pan and welding a bung on.
Click to expand...
I must be an idiot, what are you searching on ebay to find those kits. I haven't found one yet. Thank you.
BTW I did find the part numbers for the lines on an advanced search [thumbzup]
 
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