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What are your coolant temps?

jag7720

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Kansas City, MO
My commute is about 9 miles and I take the 35 mph route with traffic, lights etc... during this trip my coolant temps get to and maintain about 195°-200°.

On Saturday the outside temp was about 90°-ish. I filled the small utility trailer (about 500 lbs) with trash from the basement (another 200-300 lbs)... nothing heavy and took it to the dump - about 23 miles away at 55mph.

On the way there I noticed my coolant temps getting a lot higher.. about 220°-230°.

I let the engine idle while emptying the trailer. When I got back in the truck the coolant was down to about 195°.

I got back on the road with an empty trailer and took a longer route home - about 40 miles.

While on the road this time my coolant temp got up to 240° at 65mph.

I have a tranny cooler plumbed in series with the radiator.


My questions are... do these temps seem normal? What are your temps in similar situations?

Would they be any lower if I took the radiator out of the tranny cooling and only used the tranny cooler?

Anything else I can do to improve the cooling if these temps are high?


thanks
 
Last edited:

mangus580

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Western NY
My commute is about 9 miles and I take the 35 mph route with traffic, lights etc... during this trip my coolant temps get to and maintain about 195°-200°.
Thats normal operating temperature

On the way there I noticed my coolant temps getting a lot higher.. about 220°-230°.

I let the engine idle while emptying the trailer. When I got back in the truck the coolant was down to about 195°.
Sounds like its getting hot for some reason, but its obvious the t-stat is working


While on the road this time my coolant temp got up to 240° at 65mph.
Way too hot!


I have a tranny cooler plumbed in series with the radiator.
Silly question, do you have it plumbed into the right spot of the tranny lines? I think it matters which direction the flow is...


Would they be any lower if I took the radiator out of the tranny cooling and only used the tranny cooler?
Do NOT do this. The heat transfer in the radiator is much better for the tranny than just the heat transfer of air/fluid. You will overheat your tranny for sure.


Things to check for....


  • Flush your cooling system
  • Tight belts
  • Clean radiator fins
  • Enough fluid in both cooling system and tranny
  • Clutch in fan is not shot
Its odd that towing that little weight would create these temperature spikes... I'm trying to remember, but if this is a 1009, It could be due to towing with 3.08 gears, but honestly, I would suspect the same problem with just adding that much weight to the truck.
 

jag7720

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Sounds like its getting hot for some reason, but its obvious the t-stat is working
three months old

Silly question, do you have it plumbed into the right spot of the tranny lines? I think it matters which direction the flow is...
Yes, I used the top line
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/33072-transmission-cooler-supply-line.html


Things to check for....


  • Flush your cooling system
  • Tight belts
  • Clean radiator fins
  • Enough fluid in both cooling system and tranny
  • Clutch in fan is not shot
Flushed? As in back flushed? i've heard bad things about that... the system has coolant in it that is about a year old and it is topped off. I checked it that morning. Nice and green... no rust color.

Belts are tight... no squealing at least.

Fluids are topped off... tranny was freshly rebuilt about 2 months ago.

Clutch fan... how do i tell. it turns with a little pressure. It feels like any other I have turned.

Its odd that towing that little weight would create these temperature spikes... I'm trying to remember, but if this is a 1009, It could be due to towing with 3.08 gears, but honestly, I would suspect the same problem with just adding that much weight to the truck.
it is a 1009.

I plumbed my temp probe into a heater line off the cross over tube... could that cause these readings? If so, is there a better place to put it?
 

mangus580

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I plumbed my temp probe into a heater line off the cross over tube... could that cause these readings? If so, is there a better place to put it?
I suppose its possible, usually they are put in a port on the head.
 

mangus580

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Yes, look at the drivers side head near the front, you will see a green wire connected to a probe thats not a glow plug. That is the probe for the temp light. There should be a matching plug in the head on the pass side that you can use (or take the probe for the light out)

You can also make a new 'block off plate' for the rear top of the pass head... that would go in the position similar to the t-stat x-over., and use that spot.
 

jag7720

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Kansas City, MO
Great... I like the first option... Is that plug difficult to remove?

I walked out to my truck and looked at the plug your are referring to. It seems smaller than the threaded part that holds the probe in place.

Not my picture
http://www.miata.net/garage/GaugeInstall/gaugeInstall6.jpg

but see the brass piece on the left? That is what I have... it is the same on most water gauge kits. Do yo know if that fits in the plug hole in the block?
 
Last edited:

Westech

CPL
6,104
208
63
Location
cow farts, Wisconsin
what happened to me is the radiator was starting to clog up on the inside with sediments. I cleaned it a couple times but it was a no go. I have had to replace every but one CUCV radiator I have got. it does kinda sound like a flow problem. Good when idling or just taking it ez but when RPM and load go up it cant pass enough water.
 

jag7720

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Kansas City, MO
How do you tell if it is clogging? And how did you clean it?

I can see some build up on the edge of the tubes when I drained the system to swap the crossover tube. It didn't look like is was sealing any of them.

Is that radiator a standard one or something special because of the Military relation?
 

Westech

CPL
6,104
208
63
Location
cow farts, Wisconsin
Any one for a blazer with a diesel will work. Just need to get one with trans and oil coolers. and if you can see build up on the tubes.. time to get a new one. you cant clean that stuff off. Trust me I have had 4 CUCV's and all but one needed to be replaced. The diesel needs to have a 100% working cooling system or it will over heat.
 

Armada

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Buick City, MI
Here's a link to the temp probe in the head info.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/34630-where-install-temp-sensor.html
You are smart to have a temp gauge so you can monitor actual changes and react accordingly.
Heat is the 6.2's nemisis. 220-240 deg's is in the head warping range. The 3:08 gearing in the 1009 is fine for moving the truck itself, but it doesn't take much extra weight at all to get the temps increasing. Pulling even an empty M101 trailer up a gradual grade at highway speed will 'lug' the engine causing temps to go up. The deuce does the same thing so they recommend not lugging the engine. Same applies to the cucv. Adjust your throttle input and gear selection accordingly. Sounds like yours may also be extra sensitive to a load which could be your cooling system is not 100% efficient. Check the condition of the radiator outside and in. Follow the other tips and you should be ok. Good luck.
 

jag7720

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Kansas City, MO
I found it for $215 All Aluminum ... they have several locations around the country but I got lucky.. they have one in my area

Ace Auto Radiator , Inc.
9304 E 40 Hwy
Independence, MO 64055
800-643-0678 Toll free
816-358-2711 Local
www.AceRadiator.com
Thank you for writing, We have your radiator in stock. Our All Aluminum radiators come with a Lifetime guarantee.
The price of the radiator is $215.00, shipping is included.

(Out of stock, allow 2 days for delivery)


To order please call 1-800-643-0678
To buy now click here Ace Radiator Secured Payment Page (Use Part #: 2098AA )
 

motormayhem

Member
628
15
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
How can you tell if the radiator needs to be de-crapped other than the look of it? I know mine has lots of build up on the outsides of the tubes, but the temp light has never come on while driving in 95+ temps and running 35"tires with the 308 gears.
 
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