What did you do to your trailer today.

[Tinstar]

I have virtually the same trailer but with a steel deck. I love having it around. Mine is Gray. It looks nice in that color

I’ve seen those. Also handy to have I bet.

I will be definitely be getting another one of these.

 

[Tinstar]

The nice thing is-I have my own sawmill so timing is much easier to manage. @Tinstar I wish you were closer , those boards would just be drops for me

My life story.

I have tons of White Oak and Black Walnut trees.
Sawmill(s) are not interested in helping.
They are swamped with back orders and I’m not worth their time.
Figures……

 

[Mainsail]

My life story.

I have tons of White Oak and Black Walnut trees.
Sawmill(s) are not interested in helping.
They are swamped with back orders and I’m not worth their time.
Figures……

Weird, sawmills busy in Oklahoma? Don't you need trees for that?

Rent one and do it yourself! <--- That's a link BTW

 

[Tinstar]

Weird, sawmills busy in Oklahoma? Don't you need trees for that?

Rent one and do it yourself!

Sawmills are Few and far between here.

Now down in the SE part of the state the big paper companies have massive operations there.

 

[Tinstar]

None to rent that I know of
If there were, I wouldn’t know the first thing on how to operate it. But I can learn.
I have lots of trees on my ranch.

 

[Another Ahab]

The cart trailer looks horrible now but I have all new tires and tubes.
Wheels are fine but need sandblasting.

1) Tinstar, that trailer looks FINE. It's a working platform. Actually looks better as it is, than painted to look "pretty". It's a beauty!

2) Consider this for the decking:

- Install your smooth sawn lumber and then give it a once-over with wire wheel on a grinder

- Try it out first on a single sample board

- Might want to be brass wire instead of steel, or maybe even one of the synthetic "scotch-brite" kind

Paying big bucks for custom milling is too steep, even if your middle name is BEZOS.

Just an idea.

That trailer is a gem!! And that restored Craftsman vise is sweet.

 

[Another Ahab]

Sawmills are Few and far between here.

I got more than a few whiskers on my chin, but I remember when there were 2-3 mill operatiuons here in the D.C. area, if you can believe it.

One I recall up in the Rockville area (MD), and another one over in the Fairfax area (VA). That was JUST before the Suburban Explosion hit big around here.

A buddy of mine who lived in Potomac, used to hunt for burl wood in the forests around his house. He'd sell the burls to the mills and then use the pocketed cash to buy his "weed". Ah, the Good Old Days.

 

[Tinstar]

1) Tinstar, that trailer looks FINE. It's a working platform. Actually looks better as it is, than painted to look "pretty". It's a beauty!

2) Consider this for the decking:

- Install your smooth sawn lumber and then give it a once-over with wire wheel on a grinder

- Try it out first on a single sample board

- Might want to be brass wire instead of steel, or maybe even one of the synthetic "scotch-brite" kind

Paying big bucks for custom milling is too steep, even if your middle name is BEZOS.

Just an idea.

That trailer is a gem!! And that restored Craftsman vise is sweet.

I have sanded the existing wood once and it looked fine but several boards have rot.
I’ll use regular wood if I have to.
Trying to duplicate the rough cut makes the board look horrible. Not going that route when wood prices are so high now.

I don’t mind used looking but this trailer needs a facelift.
The wheels are the worst.

In typical government fashion, trailer has one brand new wheel and hub that uses the worst worn out tire.
It has one brand new tire, on the ugliest wheel with 6 different coats of paint all coming off.

Since I knew a tire change, new wood and repaint was coming, I’ve been extremely lax about paint overspray from different projects.
It definitely shows it.

The vise was a fun project and I used the trailer deck for that as well.
I have a collection of old vises and all are USA made. Several are NOS still in box.
It was restored to be outside permanently.

All nooks and crannies got a coating of fluid film and all threads, behind jaws and spinning parts got a generous helping of anti seize.
The jaws and anvil face were blued and oiled.
It won’t be shiny forever, that’s for sure.
Just used it yesterday actually.
Not bad from a vise that’s at least 20+ years old.

 

[Tinstar]

Weird, sawmills busy in Oklahoma? Don't you need trees for that?

Rent one and do it yourself! <--- That's a link BTW

The ones I went to, that were still open, were extremely small operations.
One only deals in Cedar trees.
One wasn’t interested in talking at all.
Another was backed up on orders since he was a one man operation.
So on and so on…….

I’m about ready to pull the trigger on my own machine.
I think I can have it pay for itself in less than a year.

 

[Another Ahab]

I’m about ready to pull the trigger on my own machine.
I think I can have it pay for itself in less than a year.

You know about "Alaskan Sawmills", right?

It's just a guide-like device that you connect to a chain-saw: a champ in a pinch (and not real expensive).

Funny thing is, you know that buddy of mine who used to forage for burl wood?

He's the one who told me about those things. He left this area and moved out to Anchorage 20-30 years back, and we swap notes every now and then.

You can get then cheap and also not-so-cheap, depending on what quality you're after.

 

[Another Ahab]

You know about "Alaskan Sawmills", right?

Yikes

A monster link, but here's a list of some available:

https://www.bestreviews.guide/chainsaw-mill?origin=google&google_params[matchtype]=&google_params[network]=g&google_params[device]=c&google_params[creative]=533109193148&google_params[keyword]=&google_params[adposition]=&google_params[adgroupid]=125102079255&google_params[campaignid]=13872118049&bs=&google_params[feeditemid]=&google_params[targetid]=dsa-19959388920&google_params[loc_interest_ms]=&google_params[loc_physical_ms]=9008192&google_params[devicemodel]=&google_params[target]=&dest=0&sys_id=0|903&origin=google&google_params[matchtype]=&google_params[network]=g&google_params[device]=c&google_params[creative]=533109193148&google_params[keyword]=&google_params[adposition]=&google_params[adgroupid]=125102079255&google_params[campaignid]=13872118049&bs=&google_params[feeditemid]=&google_params[targetid]=dsa-19959388920&google_params[loc_interest_ms]=&google_params[loc_physical_ms]=9008192&google_params[devicemodel]=&google_params[target]=&new_api=true&dest=0&sys_id=0|903&gclid=CjwKCAjwur-SBhB6EiwA5sKtjpXXSvfoIEfJB04tl8vk3zsfRFvY9iDP_0jfPk1YUeVCT5wmH7dxvhoCdr4QAvD_BwE

 

[Tinstar]

You know about "Alaskan Sawmills", right?

It's just a guide-like device that you connect to a chain-saw: a champ in a pinch (and not real expensive).

Funny thing is, you know that buddy of mine who used to forage for burl wood?

He's the one who told me about those things. He left this area and moved out to Anchorage 20-30 years back, and we swap notes every now and then.

You can get then cheap and also not-so-cheap, depending on what quality you're after.

I had completely forgotten about those.
That will work perfect!!

Thanks for the link

Ordering the #1 pick today.

Edit:
Gradberg 30” Setup was ordered today along with their guide rail kit.
This will work perfect for what I need.

Saves me about $15k from the other setup I was seriously thinking about.

 

[Coug]

We used an Alaska type mill when we built the log house (back when I was a teenager)

Upside is how portable they are

Downside is they aren't very efficient, and take a very long time.

It goes slightly faster if you have actual ripping chain.

Also needs properly set up to get a straight cut, which can take a while.

You do need a relatively strong chainsaw to use it if you want any decent speed. We use an old Stihl 044. We also tend to cut thicker logs though, like 24" or so.

 

[Mullaney]

I have sanded the existing wood once and it looked fine but several boards have rot.
I’ll use regular wood if I have to.
Trying to duplicate the rough cut makes the board look horrible. Not going that route when wood prices are so high now.

I don’t mind used looking but this trailer needs a facelift.
The wheels are the worst.

In typical government fashion, trailer has one brand new wheel and hub that uses the worst worn out tire.
It has one brand new tire, on the ugliest wheel with 6 different coats of paint all coming off.

Since I knew a tire change, new wood and repaint was coming, I’ve been extremely lax about paint overspray from different projects.
It definitely shows it.

The vise was a fun project and I used the trailer deck for that as well.
I have a collection of old vises and all are USA made. Several are NOS still in box.
It was restored to be outside permanently.

All nooks and crannies got a coating of fluid film and all threads, behind jaws and spinning parts got a generous helping of anti seize.
The jaws and anvil face were blued and oiled.
It won’t be shiny forever, that’s for sure.
Just used it yesterday actually.
Not bad from a vise that’s at least 20+ years old.

.
@Tinstar , I have to ask... You mentioned restoring the Craftsman vice on your trailer. Also mentioned that you had restored it to be outside permanently. I have a M1089 and part of the setup is a vice up between the tool boxes. I keep it spray with WD40 to keep the "screw" limber and usable and the rotation gets unscrewed and sprayed too. I figure that grease will just attract crud floating in the air. The paint job is factory CARC and I noticed today a little rust.

Any suggestions on what I should be doing to preserve it?
Obviously it is outside...



Kinda makes me think that a coat of paint wouldn't hurt it at all... Maybe?

 

[Tinstar]

That’s a nice vise you have.
We have one of those in the barn at the Main ranch. Things a beast.


I’m sure everyone each does something different to their own vises to maintain them.

For me, the Craftsman in the picture is the third vise I’ve restored for outside only use.
Has worked extremely well for the last 3+ years.
No rust yet!

First is a total repaint if needed and to make sure no thin spots or too heavy spots.
I completely disassemble them and make sure everything is clean.
Most vises have casting cavities underneath somewhere and I spray those areas VERY liberally with Fluid Film.
Also spray the steel screw protector, base of vise itself, top and bottom of swivel plate.
The Jaws get a coating of nickel anti seize on the back and bottom and screws also.
Swivel lock and main nut hood screw also gets anti seize.
The main screw gets anti seize only on the unthreaded section that’s hidden from sight. Rest gets lots of fluid film.
Once assembled and mounted to its final location, I spray the screw again and also coat heavily the screw protector where it’s not painted.
It will attract some dust, but I would rather have dust than rust.

So far, Zero rust.

 

[Tinstar]

We used an Alaska type mill when we built the log house (back when I was a teenager)

Upside is how portable they are

Downside is they aren't very efficient, and take a very long time.

It goes slightly faster if you have actual ripping chain.

Also needs properly set up to get a straight cut, which can take a while.

You do need a relatively strong chainsaw to use it if you want any decent speed. We use an old Stihl 044. We also tend to cut thicker logs though, like 24" or so.

Good thing is the cost of new decking would be about what I spent today.
I have two Stihl chainsaws.
025 and a 04?

I am sure it will be a learning curve, but am very happy that I can now do my own, at my pace.
I was sick of calling around trying to find what I needed.

Looking forward to it!

 

[Coug]

Good thing is the cost of new decking would be about what I spent today.
I have two Stihl chainsaws.
025 and a 04?

I am sure it will be a learning curve, but am very happy that I can now do my own, at my pace.
I was sick of calling around trying to find what I needed.

Looking forward to it!

The quality of the setup for your first cut will determine the quality of the boards you get. Have to get it set up perfectly straight.

I've used a couple 2x4 screwed down into the top of the log, with rubber wedges adding support if needed.

I've also run 60 penny nails in a straight row, and used pieces of channel aluminum or steel sitting on them, and move it down the log as needed.

have good hearing protection, and anti-vibration gloves. At least with all the covid crap you should have plenty of dust masks lying around.

We have a bandsaw mill here now. Built a lot of it ourselves. Uses an old 7hp motor, some axle stubs and trailer wheels from harbor fright, and scrap metal that used to be an old circle blade mill powered by a tractor PTO (kerf on that was over 1/4", so it wasted a LOT of wood)
can only handle smaller logs, biggest being 19" diameter, typically 15" or under. The only thing we bought for it was the blade guides.
Built it about 5 years ago and less than $1k into it.

Way more efficient than the Alaska mill. If you make it 1 foot down the log in a couple minutes you're not doing too badly with the Alaska mill. Bandsaw mill does a foot in 10-20 seconds.

 

[Coug]

I've been performing a reverse Michael Jackson on my trailer.

Going from being light skinned


to dark

 

[Another Ahab]

I've been performing a reverse Michael Jackson on my trailer.

Your trailer looks mighty fine, Coug, excellent; but can it sing and can it also dance?!

 

[Buffalobwana]

Is it allowed within 800 yards of an elementary school?