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- Olympia/WA
It started out with light skin, so no, it can't dance no matter what it tries to claim when it's drunk.
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What did you do to your trailer today.
- Thread starter Floridianson
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- Olympia/WA
Are we talking a rural elementary school, or one run by liberals?
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- Reydon, OK
- 1,394
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- Frisco Texas
Rural! We know anything goes when the libs get ahold of your kids!
Another Ahab
Well-known member
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- Alexandria, VA
But only ONE thing goes when the Rural get a hold of your kids:
- Toe the Line! OBEY
Is that it?
- 1,394
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- 63
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- Frisco Texas
I dunno. People suck everywhere!
Now, back to trailers!
Now, back to trailers!
- 3,003
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- 113
- Location
- Olympia/WA
Okay, did yet another thing to my M1102 trailer.
So we all know the aerodynamics on them suck.
Next weekend I have a camping trip I'm going on that is over 200 miles each way. Not really a whole lot in the grand scheme of things, but with fuel prices how they are, I decided every little bit would help.
We've all seen the threads where people are lowering the trailers by modifying the way the axle mounts, using smaller tires, etc.
Well, I decided to lower the trailer profile by cutting the bows.
I measured how far the bows sit into the mounting bracket (about 5 inches).
Went to the upper portion, and measured about 5.5 inches down from where the curve starts. This comes to about 29.5 inches from the bottom of the bow assembly.
Cut them all off
found some pipe that barely fit over the bow diameter (1" conduit I think) and cut 10" sections.
So now I can have the top short for aerodynamics, then add the lower sections to bring it back to it's original height whenever I need the headroom in the trailer.
So where the straps are to hold the rolled up sides of the top just happens to be about the same place as the top edge of the trailer with the shortened bows.
There isn't a good way to secure the top to the trailer for driving down the road like this, so I'll end up with several straps run over the top to keep everything in place.
Not the prettiest, and I still need to add some type of hard material under the canvas to keep it from sagging, but I've definitely seen worse.
Overall 30 inches / 2.5 feet shorter in height.
So we all know the aerodynamics on them suck.
Next weekend I have a camping trip I'm going on that is over 200 miles each way. Not really a whole lot in the grand scheme of things, but with fuel prices how they are, I decided every little bit would help.
We've all seen the threads where people are lowering the trailers by modifying the way the axle mounts, using smaller tires, etc.
Well, I decided to lower the trailer profile by cutting the bows.
I measured how far the bows sit into the mounting bracket (about 5 inches).
Went to the upper portion, and measured about 5.5 inches down from where the curve starts. This comes to about 29.5 inches from the bottom of the bow assembly.
Cut them all off
found some pipe that barely fit over the bow diameter (1" conduit I think) and cut 10" sections.
So now I can have the top short for aerodynamics, then add the lower sections to bring it back to it's original height whenever I need the headroom in the trailer.
So where the straps are to hold the rolled up sides of the top just happens to be about the same place as the top edge of the trailer with the shortened bows.
There isn't a good way to secure the top to the trailer for driving down the road like this, so I'll end up with several straps run over the top to keep everything in place.
Not the prettiest, and I still need to add some type of hard material under the canvas to keep it from sagging, but I've definitely seen worse.
Overall 30 inches / 2.5 feet shorter in height.
Another Ahab
Well-known member
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- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
Nice looking trailer, Coug!
Wonder if you can use sailboat fiberglass stays as trailer bows? The stays are just long flat flexible strips of fiberglass used to stiffen sails. Olympia is on the water isn't it? Any marinas there where you could check?
Or maybe you could just use lath strips (1/4" x 1-1/2") found in any big box hardware store: they're flexible, too (to a point).
You know. Just a couple of ideas. Maybe the trailer crowd knows if that'll work or not (because I really don't know what I'm talking about!).
- 3,003
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- Olympia/WA
on the HMMWV I used a fiberglass panel painted black. Been working great, and I have more of the panels. Or I might just put some wood strips in there. I have a sawmill and acres of trees, so plenty of materials to use.
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- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
Still working on the former oxygen trailer.
Painting done.
All lettering is paint. No decals including the ford logo on toolbox
Wheels and hubs painted and installed.
New bearings and seals installed
Also installed new Jack to original welded snap-ring mount.
No more bolt on Jack that was at an angle and looked stupid.
Painted the spot where the Bolt-in Jack was
Just have to install wooden floor and sides.
Already have all the hardware.
Also need to build wooden gate.
Know what I want, just need to do it.
Waiting for cooler weather.
Heat index of 106-110+ Make working outside not much fun.
Painting done.
All lettering is paint. No decals including the ford logo on toolbox
Wheels and hubs painted and installed.
New bearings and seals installed
Also installed new Jack to original welded snap-ring mount.
No more bolt on Jack that was at an angle and looked stupid.
Painted the spot where the Bolt-in Jack was
Just have to install wooden floor and sides.
Already have all the hardware.
Also need to build wooden gate.
Know what I want, just need to do it.
Waiting for cooler weather.
Heat index of 106-110+ Make working outside not much fun.
Attachments
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 18,007
- 4,579
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 18,007
- 4,579
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
Looks good. Nice work!
- 7,773
- 19,884
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
.
And that electric jack is nice too! Huff and Puff and Grunt loading and unloading the trailer - and then you get home - and have to crank the handle to disconnect the trailer... Yes sir, the jack doing the work is a nice upgrade!
Paint job is nice too.
Thanks the original landing gear was damaged and I had to cut it off, dang that thing was heavy too! I had a crank jack on there for awhile but grew tired of it very quickly. Picked up the electric jack from Harbor Freight and it's a game changer for sure.
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 18,007
- 4,579
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
- 7,773
- 19,884
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
.
Those electric jacks are great @Another Ahab . I installed one on a 35ft camping trailer and it was the best upgrade on that vehicle...
- 4,292
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- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
So today I was going to install a new set of brake levers on my tan M101A2 trailer.
One lever works fine, but the other one has been frozen solid ever since I picked it up from RRAD.
Luckily it was in the right adjustment position.
I’ve sprayed stuff from time to time on it, but never really messed with it since it worked and was the right position.
It was bugging me so time for replacement
I literally was sitting on my milk crate with tools and thought I would give it one more try.
This time I used heat, liquid wrench, and a hammer and pliers.
It was slow going at first, but after a few heat cycles and lots of hammer taps, plus almost a can of penetrate, she finally busted loose and works perfectly!
It will run the entire length of travel now and can even only use two fingers doing it.
Took about an hour.
No way to get grease or anti seize inside without destroying the lever.
Drilling for a zert would work but no way to flush metal shavings out of threads.
Just lots of spray lube.
Now I can save my new levers for another day.
Edit;
Took pictures today.
Looks rough I know but it’s a working Ranch trailer so beauty isn’t as much a concern
One lever works fine, but the other one has been frozen solid ever since I picked it up from RRAD.
Luckily it was in the right adjustment position.
I’ve sprayed stuff from time to time on it, but never really messed with it since it worked and was the right position.
It was bugging me so time for replacement
I literally was sitting on my milk crate with tools and thought I would give it one more try.
This time I used heat, liquid wrench, and a hammer and pliers.
It was slow going at first, but after a few heat cycles and lots of hammer taps, plus almost a can of penetrate, she finally busted loose and works perfectly!
It will run the entire length of travel now and can even only use two fingers doing it.
Took about an hour.
No way to get grease or anti seize inside without destroying the lever.
Drilling for a zert would work but no way to flush metal shavings out of threads.
Just lots of spray lube.
Now I can save my new levers for another day.
Edit;
Took pictures today.
Looks rough I know but it’s a working Ranch trailer so beauty isn’t as much a concern
Attachments
Last edited:
Another Ahab
Well-known member
- 18,007
- 4,579
- 113
- Location
- Alexandria, VA
- 4,292
- 1,779
- 113
- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
It was either going to work or be taken apart and placed in a vise for an autopsy.
The Tan M101A2 trailer I won today at GP auction has two brand new brake levers installed already!
Win!
