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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

TCD

Member
119
7
18
Location
Mound.House, NV
Got one of my broken crank/flex plate bolts out today. The other one is fighting something fierce. Broke two taps, and an easy out. Got it to budge, but ran out tools to remove it tonight. Going to buy a bigger drill bit and a bigger easy out tomorrow. Other wise ran a tap and cleaned up the other 5 bolt holes. Hopefully I can get this 6th one out, if not, I really don't like the idea of running 5 bolts but will I have to. I can't afford a new crank at this point. Only time will tell.
Howdy Josh,

Years ago I found a recipe for homemade Kroil and I have used it in my shop since with great results. It is especially cost-effective for jobs that require a lot of fluid.

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Interesting information

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged an test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ............ ......... 516 pounds

WD-40 ............ ...... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............ ..214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ...... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix... 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

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You will have to keep the mixture in a tightly sealed container and shake it vigorously before each use but it works!

I have also found that heating the bolt rather than the surrounding area and then letting it completely cool seems to swell the surrounding material and loosen the bite on the item to be removed.

And lastly, I use a heat gun to heat the part for very rusty parts before I apply the penetrating fluid (lots of fluid repeatedly).

Good Luck!

Tom
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Lubed for the winter. Today the shutterstat gets new o-rings so the fan don't continually run when the engine is cold.
Looks like shutterstat worked correctly (at least in the stuck engaged when cold issue) after putting the new O-rings in. I can check that better this weekend when the cold blast hits. Last winter it was only stuck "on" when below 40°F, but it came on with a cold engine a few days ago when in the upper 40s. Hopefully the rattle noise the fan made at idle when it kicked in (from heat) has been fixed too. If I can get my CUCV fender done today I can road test the 5 ton tomorrow while it is in the 70s to test the rattling issue.
 

big block 88

Member
862
17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
Working on a buddies 923a1 the fuel tank drain plug har been dripping slow so while we had it doing a service I said heck i will pull the plug teflon its threads and put a new gasket on it. BOY.... If only it was that easy. Went to loosen the plug and shot straight out of the tank plugged it with my finger while we assessed the situation and see whiskey tango foxtrot was going on.

The plug hole had no threads left in it. The plug itself had been torched at some point and was full of pin holes and porosity no thread left. Just a huge gob of epoxy on it. Some glued the **** thing in!

I had to wedge a bolt in the hole to slow the leak (of course the tank was full too btw) ran like **** to the parts store and grabbed some rubber expanding plugs. So its not leaking but its not a long term fix by any means.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,118
9,355
113
Location
Mason, TN
Working on a buddies 923a1 the fuel tank drain plug har been dripping slow so while we had it doing a service I said heck i will pull the plug teflon its threads and put a new gasket on it. BOY.... If only it was that easy. Went to loosen the plug and shot straight out of the tank plugged it with my finger while we assessed the situation and see whiskey tango foxtrot was going on.

The plug hole had no threads left in it. The plug itself had been torched at some point and was full of pin holes and porosity no thread left. Just a huge gob of epoxy on it. Some glued the **** thing in!

I had to wedge a bolt in the hole to slow the leak (of course the tank was full too btw) ran like **** to the parts store and grabbed some rubber expanding plugs. So its not leaking but its not a long term fix by any means.
Your hydraulic shop will have a banjo bolt type fitting that will have a nut with an o ring on the bottom of it. That will have to match the hole in the tank. Then a bolt will come thru and secure it with its own o ring. I will try to get the number on one tomorrow when i am there. I have used it to patch holes in hydraulic tanks

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
 

big block 88

Member
862
17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
Excellent idea simp. If you do find a number let me know if you would sir. Better than my idea of oversizing the plug and cutting new threads. Im not sure if there would be enough meat on the boss/bung on the tank to go 5/8.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,118
9,355
113
Location
Mason, TN

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,288
1,773
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Ordered new Haldex air dryer (P/N N50011K)
Old one working ok but it's 5 years old now.
Time for a new one.

Installed new washer fluid bottle and bracket.
Old bottle developed a crack and leaked.

Checked antifreeze. All good
Getting cold tomorrow
 

Josh

Active member
1,678
12
38
Location
Portland, Oregon
After about 8hrs of drilling, tapping, cutting and hoping. Finally got the last broken bolt out of my crank shaft. Ended up using a HF air saw(actually took 4 of them cause they are **** and kept breaking) to cut it into pieces and pry it out. Overall I spent about 200 bucks on taps, easy outs, drill bits, and hardware/tools to get that **** bolt out.

That said, 2 hours after that last piece came out, the new transmission was back in the truck. Tomorrow(Today) is the day to finish bolting all the accessories, pto, ect back on the truck. Got a new pan filter and spin on filter. Going to replace the motor oil that was in it with dex 3. Gotta rig of some connections so I can purge all the lines in the trans of the metal filled oil that was left behind. Hoping to have the truck back on the road by sunset tomorrow.
 

Attachments

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,990
4,535
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
After about 8hrs of drilling, tapping, cutting and hoping. Finally got the last broken bolt out of my crank shaft. Ended up using a HF air saw(actually took 4 of them cause they are **** and kept breaking) to cut it into pieces and pry it out. Overall I spent about 200 bucks on taps, easy outs, drill bits, and hardware/tools to get that **** bolt out.

That said, 2 hours after that last piece came out, the new transmission was back in the truck. Tomorrow(Today) is the day to finish bolting all the accessories, pto, ect back on the truck. Got a new pan filter and spin on filter. Going to replace the motor oil that was in it with dex 3. Gotta rig of some connections so I can purge all the lines in the trans of the metal filled oil that was left behind. Hoping to have the truck back on the road by sunset tomorrow.
That's a plus in the "positive effort" column.

Congratulations on the progress.
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Looks like shutterstat worked correctly (at least in the stuck engaged when cold issue) after putting the new O-rings in. I can check that better this weekend when the cold blast hits. Last winter it was only stuck "on" when below 40°F, but it came on with a cold engine a few days ago when in the upper 40s. Hopefully the rattle noise the fan made at idle when it kicked in (from heat) has been fixed too. If I can get my CUCV fender done today I can road test the 5 ton tomorrow while it is in the 70s to test the rattling issue.
Didn't yet check for rattle sound of fan at idle, but started it this morning while the temperature was in the mid 20s and the fan did not engage. At least I know that headache is over. I guess I will see if it makes the rattle sound at idle when engaged next year. Doubt it will get warm enough to engage until then.
 

Jbulach

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,652
2,167
113
Location
Sunman Indiana
Didn't yet check for rattle sound of fan at idle, but started it this morning while the temperature was in the mid 20s and the fan did not engage. At least I know that headache is over. I guess I will see if it makes the rattle sound at idle when engaged next year. Doubt it will get warm enough to engage until then.
Mine fan occasionally rattles at idle when the clutch engages also. Wonder if it could be normal?
 

therooster2001

Active member
824
44
28
Location
Colorado
Did the SD (Swamp Donkey) backlight upgrade in red, no pics because it was BRIGHT out when I finished, then my 5-ton decided to not start, so had to just prime it. I THINK I was running low on fuel last time I pulled it in, and it hesitated once about 3 miles before home (like a dead pedal for a split second). I primed, then fueled up 20 gallons, and will try it again in a week. I sure hope I am not chasing down lines and fuel issues. It's never done this, before this. Only thing done to it was the coolant change, nothing related to fuel. Here's to hoping that it just was sucking some air when it pulled in and that was it.....
 
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