• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

74M35A2

Well-known member
4,145
332
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Moved it forward 6’ to make room for the scissor lift while beginning install of a 6kW solar array atop my south facing garage roof half, 21 panels. Cable trolley is zip line over pool.

A9FD0A42-9070-497B-89EF-252468FB0E3E.jpg
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
3,005
317
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
Cut an access hole in my doghouse to remove the 5/32" plug on the rear cylinder head to finally add a second fuel line. Plug has won so far. I have broken (2) 3/8" drive allen sockets using a 1/4' drive impact gun. I'll add some heat tomorrow as research shows that is the best way to overcome the locktite that is commonly added to the plug when installing. I wish to make my 250 a little stronger. Simp has gone off on me a few times via text messaging when discussing lowering the button number or turning the throttleshaft screw without doing this modification. He even gave me a dual fuel line kit he had put together as payment for me picking up some trailers about a year and a half ago. I can't wait to get the plug out and see how it helps once installed. Now I have to fab up a cover plate once finished. I'm thinking old school muscle car style with an a/c and heater delete package. My plate will likely state "Cummins Dual Fuel" and "24 Valve" below it!
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,130
9,409
113
Location
Mason, TN
Cut an access hole in my doghouse to remove the 5/32" plug on the rear cylinder head to finally add a second fuel line. Plug has won so far. I have broken (2) 3/8" drive allen sockets using a 1/4' drive impact gun. I'll add some heat tomorrow as research shows that is the best way to overcome the locktite that is commonly added to the plug when installing. I wish to make my 250 a little stronger. Simp has gone off on me a few times via text messaging when discussing lowering the button number or turning the throttleshaft screw without doing this modification. He even gave me a dual fuel line kit he had put together as payment for me picking up some trailers about a year and a half ago. I can't wait to get the plug out and see how it helps once installed. Now I have to fab up a cover plate once finished. I'm thinking old school muscle car style with an a/c and heater delete package. My plate will likely state "Cummins Dual Fuel" and "24 Valve" below it!
Once i send you the pump off my truck to swap on you will see what I mean

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

big block 88

Member
862
17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
I had a list of the parts needed for the dual fuel line mod on my last phone but lost it. I need to get around to that this spring.

I mounted up my cobra classic cb on the winch control tower. Fit like it was meant for it. Just need to run my 12v to it.

I have a sugar scoop and antenna base i would sure like to find a whip and figure out how to get the civi cb to work with the big military whip.
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
3,005
317
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
From the emergency cut off valve I used the following parts.

JIC flared fitting to 1/4" NPT adapter
1/4" NPT tee
1/4" NPT to 3/8" inverted flare adapter (two)
one 20" 3/8" inverted flare steel line
one 30" 3/8" inverted flare steel line
two 3/8" inverted flare to 1/8" npt adapters
one 1/8" npt male to male nipple
one 1/8" npt 90 or straight female to female coupler

Everything except for the JIC flared fitting was purchased at the local auto parts store. The JIC flare to NPT I got at the local hyd. hose place. But if you're buying from a NAPA, I'm sure they'd have that. (Or a parts store that does hyd. hoses)

This was copied from a post from PaTracy.
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
3,005
317
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
Once i send you the pump off my truck to swap on you will see what I mean

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
Let me dual fuel and continue to burn the mixed fuel in my tank out. I think I'm down to about 10 gallons of filtered ATF in the 80 gallons of diesel. My pump was rebuilt about 2 years ago and was turned 10% over stock according to the shop that went through it. Your pump might not be happy with the mix and honestly, you might not get it back if it really wakes the truck up.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,130
9,409
113
Location
Mason, TN
Let me dual fuel and continue to burn the mixed fuel in my tank out. I think I'm down to about 10 gallons of filtered ATF in the 80 gallons of diesel. My pump was rebuilt about 2 years ago and was turned 10% over stock according to the shop that went through it. Your pump might not be happy with the mix and honestly, you might not get it back if it really wakes the truck up.
Make sure you replace your ip filter once the mix is out of it.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,130
9,409
113
Location
Mason, TN
Let me dual fuel and continue to burn the mixed fuel in my tank out. I think I'm down to about 10 gallons of filtered ATF in the 80 gallons of diesel. My pump was rebuilt about 2 years ago and was turned 10% over stock according to the shop that went through it. Your pump might not be happy with the mix and honestly, you might not get it back if it really wakes the truck up.
You going to the mud thing up in Butler,Ga in 2 weeks?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,657
1,676
113
Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
Gutted a lot of the ceiling in the 934...and removed the vent ducts.... Water penetration, and saturated fiberglass insulation is no bueno. Gotta seal the roof, then replace all the insulation with foam....should be fun. I can raise the ceiling height by a couple inches by mounting the ceiling on the supports and pulling out the vent supports....
 

Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
7
38
Location
Edenton, NC
Pulled my head today, due to pitting around cylinder 1-2 on the head I’m sending it off to be machined and new valve seals installed. More money. *sigh*
Was the head warped or valves burned? I've seen heads like that cleaned and reinstalled no problems.

Reading on I see you said it had some pitting between the cylinders

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

sandcobra164

Well-known member
3,005
317
83
Location
Leesburg, GA
Finished installing the dual fuel line modification on my NHC-250. Results so far are good. It took a bit of cranking to get fuel to the injectors but once it fired off, all was good. Shut it off and let it sit for an hour to see if would still start as easy as before. No worries, fired right back up. So far no leaks. I took the truck for a 20 mile drive to get everything up to operating temperature. I think I gained the 20-25 hp advertised. I think I need to put some more miles on it to really notice the gains. My reasoning is that the back 2 cylinders are finally contributing now, they need some run time to burn off the soot. When I fired the truck off and revved the throttle a few times, it belched out a ton of grey smoke. I'm probably the culprit, I ran 50/50 diesel filtered waste atf for about 2 years. After the 20 mile trip, smoke out of the exhaust was gone at idle. Now part 2.

While I think this is a good modification for any NHC-250 powered truck, it is quite a bit of work for a novice like me. In the M939 series trucks, you have to either remove the "doghouse" or cut into it to gain access to the rear cylinder head. I cut into mine. Once you have gained access, there is a 3/16" allen plug that you need to remove. I broke (2) 3/8 drive allen head sockets yesterday. Luckily I didn't round out the head of the plug. I purchased a "blue wrench" today. Benzomatic propane torch. I heated the plug for a few minutes, no go. Heated a few more minutes, no go. Got comfy and heated for about 15 minutes, the plug finally came out. Installed the fuel line to the rear head. Next problem area was the fuel line going to the front head. Rounded off the compression fitting nut, removed the upper radiator support and realized that I need once again to slow down. I removed the return line, removed the fitting from the head, cut the feed line and removed it's fitting from the head. Installed the return line fitting, return line and installed my front pressure line set-up. Next step of this process will be to fabricate a "access panel" for the doghouse.

Now, how does it drive? It drove great! Biggest difference is throttle response under a load. Whereas before, it would take a few seconds between getting on the throttle and any noticeable change in engine sound. Now, it makes more racket the moment the throttle is pressed when charging up a hill. I ran the speed limit until I got on 55 mph roads. Now on 14's, my truck likes to run 1,900 rpms as a good cruising speed! I ran it to it's 2,100 rpm governed speed just to be sure.
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,201
113
Location
Georgia
Was the head warped or valves burned? I've seen heads like that cleaned and reinstalled no problems.

Reading on I see you said it had some pitting between the cylinders

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I decided to have it surfaced for the sake of the cummins gasket kit was over $340 and Venturing this far I don’t ever want to do this again
 

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,201
113
Location
Georgia
Doing some piston and wall cleaning; some parts are coated in nearly 1/16ths thick carbon, the rest is 1/64th thick everywhere.
 

nf6x

Feral Engineer
1,630
50
48
Location
Riverside, CA, USA
I started my M936A1 wrecker. I know it doesn't sound like much, but my MV hobby has been on the shelf for quite a while as I obsessed over other hobbies, and that poor wrecker must have been sitting for at least a couple of years. I've had a Noco 4-battery charger/maintainer on it the whole time, but I still figured it shouldn't have survived so much neglect.

I decided on a whim to start it up on Saturday, and danged if it didn't fire up on the first revolution! I didn't move it, but I ran the crane a bit. I hadn't properly stowed the boom and the hook last time I turned it off, so I put the boom back on the shippers and secured the hook. It took me a bit of head-scratching and fumbling to remember how to engage the PTO, but it all came back to me quickly.

After I shut it down, I noticed a nice, circular chunk of bird nest about 2" thick sitting on the ground on the right side. Must have pop-gunned it right out of the exhaust stack when I started the truck. I hope I didn't hurt any of the little feathered tenants.

Sadly, none of the minor issues magically fixed themselves. The leaky fan control valve still leaks like heck. I've had the part sitting on the shelf for the last few years, but maybe i'll actually install it soon. The crane hoist motor makes a terrible racket, so it'll need to come off for repair or replacement. The tachometer still doesn't work, and the cab steps are still a lot farther away from the ground than I'd like.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks