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Is there a camera flash reflection on that picture? Just asking
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your 5 ton this week?
- Thread starter dezert ratt
- Start date
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Yeah, I took that picture when I first got the steps/cover for future reference. I didn't think to disable the flash.
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I'm not equipped with a winch. I'd die if I got mine stuck, out by myself.
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Having watched many of this individuals recovery videos it never ceases to amaze me the things that he does and remains in business, clearly there is a severe lack of competition, or he works for free .
Holding the throttle to the floor while shifting the transmission from forward to reverse for 10 minutes straight is a very non intelligent move, like most of the things he does .
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Same here, before I go off road gotta get me a proper wench
msgjd
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I totally concur, as well as the idiocy of continuing to bury something deeper .. But like most reality shows, the idiocy is likely intentional for show, and let's not forget the drama .. Can't stand those shows where people that should know better are either coerced by the producer into doing idiot things to create drama, or they just don't know any better.. Is too hard to tell anymore, and the guy in the 5-Ton video appears to be an expert on creating his own drama and bad situations.,. Watching just a few pieces of this video was enough.. Turning the channel now..
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msgjd
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Be brave!! You don't need a winch (nor a wench).. All you need are some chains, shovels, a couple snatchblocks, 400ft of 2" hemp rope preferably in two lengths, chainsaw, jacks, blocks, planks, small tools (for removing rear fender flaps if need be) , and enough Soldier B's to man them ! If you can't jack it up, plank it, or dig it out, there's Plan B.. Every truck has two winches available right from the factory.. Hard to see them but they are located between the duals..
.. They require heavy hemp rope (or wire rope) and hopefully you have trees behind you, enough rope, and don't have the valve stem extensions (oops).....BTW, a front winch will do you no good if there's no trees or boulders nearby, unless you have some of the equip in the 3rd sentence to make and bury a deadman to attach to .. Of course the enemy may be upon you by the time the task is completed, but hey, at least they might have a vehicle to help pull out the truck
.. Of course, the other option is Plan C: be smart, scout any questionable path first, or just heed the Star Trek inverse mantra. "Don't go where no 5-Ton has gone before" . But where's the fun in that?
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...and don't wear a red shirt!
I do envy his ability to simply wait a day or two for the ground to dry out and simply drive out of the hole. That doesn't happen here on the East Coast. Depending on the amount of rain, a mud hole may stay full of water for weeks or months.
msgjd
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I gave him credit for waiting but didn't think 2 days would be enough.. Yet it worked in his case.... Re-harrowing a field long ago I decided to try hitting a soggy spot I avoided the day before... It looked drier, so let's try it .. The narrow-front sank and "wheelbarrowed" the tractor to a quick stop. Raised the (transport) harrows and tried to back out of it. No good.. Unhitched the harrows and tried it forward but wheelbarrowed again.. No good. The rears had sticky damp clay filling the tread, might as well had racing slicks.. Working alone as usual, got another tractor, yanked the harrows backwards enough to get it to better ground and hook up to the "new" tractor to continue the day, avoiding the spot having a big clay-splattered red-painted lump in the middle of it ... About a week later I revisited the scene of the crime.. The low spot had dried somewhat , and what previously caked the tires solid had now dried and fallen off.. Fired it up and backed right out of there without a slip, piece of cake.. And yes, was able to then get through there and harrow the low spot ..
The subject also pertains to the question as to why, from the beginnings of tractor power to this day, do people try to harvest a crop through low spots after things happen to turn wet , instead of just going around it and hit it at a later date when hopefully the spots dry out? Nooooo !! My father (and others) were famous for it, the mess it made, and all the time lost after getting stuck.. I recall some years he would get stuck, me and our other tractor couldn't pull him out and then the neighbors show up.. Here you have a train of tractors all chained together going around the field with a 1-row or 2-row chopper and wagon, and sure enough, inevitably the entire train wound up stuck.. What a sight
. .. Hey at the time, my job was just hauling the wagons, your honor
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I've finally had it with overpaying for incandescent, sealed beam headlights and I've had it with them burning out. Per @simp5782's advice, I'm converting to H4 halogen headlights.
I'm not interested in LED's because they're very expensive, there are too many counterfeits to sort through on the internet, and I find that our trucks have less than optimal voltage regulation that can shorten the life of LED's. And yeah, I am trying to keep with the old school aesthetic and the H4 kits allow me to do that. I got the packard connector/4 prong converter cables and the H4 glass housings and 24v bulbs arrived yesterday. Hopefully I can install them today.
The retractor on the driver's seatbelt blew out on me. I managed to find a sealed, NOS seatbelt kit for M-series trucks on eBay for a reasonable price. Of course, when I removed the old seatbelt I found that I was able to rewind the retractor spring and pop it back in place. I put it on my shelf of spare parts rather than throw it away and I installed the new seatbelt.
This stuff all sounds trivial but these are the kinds of things that gets you tickets when the local po-po pulls you over.
I'm not interested in LED's because they're very expensive, there are too many counterfeits to sort through on the internet, and I find that our trucks have less than optimal voltage regulation that can shorten the life of LED's. And yeah, I am trying to keep with the old school aesthetic and the H4 kits allow me to do that. I got the packard connector/4 prong converter cables and the H4 glass housings and 24v bulbs arrived yesterday. Hopefully I can install them today.
The retractor on the driver's seatbelt blew out on me. I managed to find a sealed, NOS seatbelt kit for M-series trucks on eBay for a reasonable price. Of course, when I removed the old seatbelt I found that I was able to rewind the retractor spring and pop it back in place. I put it on my shelf of spare parts rather than throw it away and I installed the new seatbelt.
This stuff all sounds trivial but these are the kinds of things that gets you tickets when the local po-po pulls you over.
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I bought two pair of these led for 64 bucks (4 lights total) put them in my old pickups, work great .
Before that I bought different looking ones and put them in my Deuce and 5 ton years ago, they still work great I would never go back, cheapest ones I could find, they're all made in China .
Led lights dont care if you have 6 12 24 or 36 volts, they just work, use minimal juice and have super low resistance, thats why they work anywhere except the turn signals, which require resistance for the flasher, easily remedied by adding resistance (old-school bulb)
I realize nobody asked me, but there ya go anyway
Before that I bought different looking ones and put them in my Deuce and 5 ton years ago, they still work great I would never go back, cheapest ones I could find, they're all made in China .
Led lights dont care if you have 6 12 24 or 36 volts, they just work, use minimal juice and have super low resistance, thats why they work anywhere except the turn signals, which require resistance for the flasher, easily remedied by adding resistance (old-school bulb)
I realize nobody asked me, but there ya go anyway
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Oops forgetted pic
I get these cheap on fleaghey, have had zero problems .
I get these cheap on fleaghey, have had zero problems .
Still good info. Thanks.
Just an FYI on the halogen headlight upgrade:
As usual with Chicom sourced parts, something didn't fit quite right. The outer rim of the of the glass headlight fixture is almost double the thickness of an old sealed beam headlight. This means that the glass fixture stands proud out of the headlight bucket, making it extremely difficult for the 3 retaining screws on the trim/retaining ring to grab their threads. Sourcing some longer screws is recommended.
I managed to (carefully) compress everything just enough for the screws to grab but I fought with it for nearly an hour. Really irritating.
As usual with Chicom sourced parts, something didn't fit quite right. The outer rim of the of the glass headlight fixture is almost double the thickness of an old sealed beam headlight. This means that the glass fixture stands proud out of the headlight bucket, making it extremely difficult for the 3 retaining screws on the trim/retaining ring to grab their threads. Sourcing some longer screws is recommended.
I managed to (carefully) compress everything just enough for the screws to grab but I fought with it for nearly an hour. Really irritating.
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Today I grabbed a stamp set and transferred some data over to the tag on the level wind since it took the place of the plate that held that info. It's not as nice as the factory stuff but good enough for the girls I date.
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Something came in the mail.. I can read my ABS codes now.
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