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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

rhurey

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
737
14
18
Location
Bothell, WA
Rhurey JaTonka makes some real nice cold weather fronts for the M939 series. He also has all the hardware to hold it on. I am sure yours does the job just figured I would mention in case you wanted to keep the military look.
I considered buying one of his. But this was a $20 investment for the few weeks a year I may need it. And most of that cost was magnets that seem to have all kinds of cool uses.
 

tbar123

Member
691
24
18
Location
enon,oh
I successfully rebuilt my fan clutch actuator valve! I was really worried about it since everything seems to be going wrong, but I set the valve in almost boiling water, then watched the valve open and supplied compressed air@ 20 psi, then 40 and finally 60 and everything worked as should so I'm really happy! It only cost $ 6.00 to rebuild. Super happy about that!
 

machinist75

Member
777
7
18
Location
Murphy, TEXAS
I successfully rebuilt my fan clutch actuator valve! I was really worried about it since everything seems to be going wrong, but I set the valve in almost boiling water, then watched the valve open and supplied compressed air@ 20 psi, then 40 and finally 60 and everything worked as should so I'm really happy! It only cost $ 6.00 to rebuild. Super happy about that!
Do you happen to have the part # and where you got the large oring at. Having trouble finding the correct size. Thanks
 

tbar123

Member
691
24
18
Location
enon,oh
I went to O'reilly's and basically found the about size for the orings, They didn't have all of them specifically the high temp rings So I went to Napa and they had what O'reilly's didn't.Just ask for the entire oring box, that has every seal in it and you can match them up pretty well. The only oring you can't replace is inside the plunger, it's a sealed unit. What I did was pour some trans fluid on it and allow it to soak in for a few days. I added the trans fluid once a day for 5 days straight.
 
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MyothersanM1

19K M1 Armor Crewman
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,957
418
68
Location
Culver City, CA
OK, I'm getting caught up here so this is all over the past few weeks...

Not pictured: I installed some upgraded civilian style wiper blades.

I replaced my Truck-Lite LED headlights with a pair of Maxxima LED's. One of my my Truck-Lites lost one of the low-beam LED's
:mad:aua:doh: I'm a little ticked so I thought I'd try something else. I think the Maxximas look better and more closely resemble the standard issue sealed beams. They can be used for both 12V and 24V service. They did require the use of H4 adapter plugs.
SDC12560.jpgSDC12559.jpg

Installed a 4"In 5"Out X 36" turn out style exhaust stack for 'cool' factor.
SDC12558.jpgSDC12561.jpg

I riveted on some new drop side warning plates and installed the correct ignition switch plate for a winch equipped truck.
SDC12557.jpgSDC12563.jpg

AND, after over FIVE YEARS of ownership, I finally got my wife to go for a ride! That's my biggest feat achieved thus far!
 
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todds112

Member
672
5
18
Location
Teton Valley, ID
Found another leaking wheel O-Ring. This is number 3. I'm not fighting this one, straight to the tire shop. Picked up a 1 ton chain hoist at Harbor Freight (my truck came with zero tools from GovPlanet). Ordered the dry-deck mats for the tool boxes. Bought a 5 lb fire extinguisher to go in the empty mount on the transmission selector tower. Lubed and adjusted all the control cables (heat, throttle, engine stop, modulator, hand throttle, whew..). Got that pesky bolt to seal up on the front pinion seal housing. Even got to take her out for a little drive and enjoy our unseasonably nice weather.
 
524
1
18
Location
Hamilton, NJ 08690
Found another leaking wheel O-Ring. This is number 3. I'm not fighting this one, straight to the tire shop. Picked up a 1 ton chain hoist at Harbor Freight (my truck came with zero tools from GovPlanet). Ordered the dry-deck mats for the tool boxes. Bought a 5 lb fire extinguisher to go in the empty mount on the transmission selector tower. Lubed and adjusted all the control cables (heat, throttle, engine stop, modulator, hand throttle, whew..). Got that pesky bolt to seal up on the front pinion seal housing. Even got to take her out for a little drive and enjoy our unseasonably nice weather.
what's the tire shop charging you per wheel?
 

todds112

Member
672
5
18
Location
Teton Valley, ID
My place charges me $50 for a tire breakdown/clean+sand/rebuild/new o ring.

What's the story with the dry deck mats? Never heard of that before.
Someone else here posted about them. They are rubber matts that have "air channels" under them. Put them in the toolboxes to keep things from sliding around all over, and they let air under them to prevent rust.

http://www.duragrid.com/index.html

I think I ordered the wrong ones, though. I ordered the "Deck Tile" and it is more hard plastic than rubber. I believe I wanted the "Non-Slip Matting". I'll call them tomorrow to confirm I order the right stuff this time.

After I found out my local tire place charges $60 for the tire service, I swore I'ld never fight with another one.
 

MtnSnow

New member
1,466
14
0
Location
NSL, UT
I used a place called "Jack's Tire & Oil" on 12th South in Ogden UT and they did both of my front tires for $69.45 including taxes with me supplying the two O-rings. They do Semi & AG tires there as well.
 

todds112

Member
672
5
18
Location
Teton Valley, ID
Does the $60 include a new o-ring?
Negative. I've provided them. I don't think they would charge me for them though. They quoted that as their standard, "large loader tire service". Also wouldn't charge any more for me having them remove the wheel
from the truck vs. me bringing them just the wheel/tire. I'll pull the CTIS stuff, but let them do all the heavy work for that price.
 

todds112

Member
672
5
18
Location
Teton Valley, ID
I used a place called "Jack's Tire & Oil" on 12th South in Ogden UT and they did both of my front tires for $69.45 including taxes with me supplying the two O-rings. They do Semi & AG tires there as well.
That's a heck of a good deal! If I would have known about them, I would have had them do all 6 before I brought her home from Ogden!
 

MtnSnow

New member
1,466
14
0
Location
NSL, UT
It was actually Boyce who told me to use them as I had picked up the two new tires from Boyce...I did help them by taking care of the CTIS stuff since they didn't know about it but they did all of the heavy hard work...
 
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todds112

Member
672
5
18
Location
Teton Valley, ID
I need to do this as well. What did you use as a lube and from what end did you go from on the cable? Did you do your parking brake cable too?
Didn't get the parking break cable yet. I just used WD-40. Disconnected the ends and held it up so it could run down inside the cover. Inside the cab I pulled the levers out and sprayed them while working the lever in and out. I'm sure there are better things to use, and better ways to do it, but it did make a huge improvement on how well they move.

I know they make specific lube and adapters for motorcycle control cables. They would probably work well for the smaller cables.
 

todds112

Member
672
5
18
Location
Teton Valley, ID
Someone else here posted about them. They are rubber matts that have "air channels" under them. Put them in the toolboxes to keep things from sliding around all over, and they let air under them to prevent rust.

http://www.duragrid.com/index.html

I think I ordered the wrong ones, though. I ordered the "Deck Tile" and it is more hard plastic than rubber. I believe I wanted the "Non-Slip Matting". I'll call them tomorrow to confirm I order the right stuff this time.
I called and talked to them today. Verified that the "Non-Slip Matting" is what I wanted. I can return the other and they are sending the new stuff out. Very good customer service FYI. My first order arrived overnight with standard ground shipping.

This stuff, but in black.

img1.jpg
 
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