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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
After driving my 818 around town the other day, I noticed the exhaust stack swaying back and forth a bit too much. Every once in awhile it would clank against bracket mounted between the front of the passenger side door and the front right fender (part #9 in the diagram).

Screen Shot 2015-12-23 at 4.07.24 PM.jpg

I took a look and could physically move the exhaust stack some by hand, so I figured the flange must be broken at the muffler, and so it was.
20151224_160831.jpg

I didn't hear any exhaust leaking out from the muffler, so it looks like I caught it just in time before it really broke.
All I had was my little MIG welder and some run of the mill flux core wire with no gas, so I put a fat pudgy tomato worm of sorts on the crack, to hold her over a bit.
Forgive my non-surgical welding skills here, it was cold and I am not used to trying to weld in tight locations and on the vehicle.

Afterwards, all is good, but I have one question for those out there that have had to replace the mufflers and/or stack. On the diagram of parts, parts #3 & 9, it seems to me that it would make more sense and make it more secure, to have these two brackets welded together, does it not? The square flange at the muffler and the single bolt #8through the bracket just seems to me to add more stress to the bottom flange.
Here is mine, notice the gap? At first, I thought it was was broken and had n=just been hammering at the edges for some time, but according to the diagram of parts, they are supposed to be this way
20151223_160919.jpg
What's your take?

Here are some pics of me doing my thing.

20151224_160844.jpg20151224_160853.jpg20151224_161228.jpg20151224_162847.jpg
 

Amer-team

Well-known member
1,706
28
48
Location
Centralia/WA
had a similar problem on the M54 with the spring suspension of the exhaust. It squeaked to distraction when driving. I found a stiffer spring (think it may have been a bit longer too), also put a couple nylon or teflon flat washers in between the spring and bracket, and put it back together. That did take care of the squeak. Think if you try to weld that up, it will be too rigid for your exhaust.
 

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
I was thinking the same as well, at least after I really looked at it. It makes sense both ways, but the way it is built allows for some minor engine movement where welding it altogether would probably just cause it to break somewhere else.
 

Amer-team

Well-known member
1,706
28
48
Location
Centralia/WA
Getting that spring suspension figured out, really improved the trucks enjoyability, once that darn squeaking was gone. The only other thing that I have to watch is to make sure that I cover the exhaust stack when not in use. It rains quite a bit here and it is somewhat comical to see peoples faces, when it throws black sooty water all over them on start up. It is also annoying when I forget and have it next to the garage. Makes for a nasty black blotch.
 

MyothersanM1

19K M1 Armor Crewman
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,954
402
68
Location
Culver City, CA
Afterwards, all is good, but I have one question for those out there that have had to replace the mufflers and/or stack. On the diagram of parts, parts #3 & 9, it seems to me that it would make more sense and make it more secure, to have these two brackets welded together, does it not? The square flange at the muffler and the single bolt #8through the bracket just seems to me to add more stress to the bottom flange.
Here is mine, notice the gap? At first, I thought it was was broken and had n=just been hammering at the edges for some time, but according to the diagram of parts, they are supposed to be this way
View attachment 600490
What's your take?
Looks right to me. That's how mine was when I got the truck. You want flexibility there due to engine vibration, so don't weld the two brackets together.
Mine made an awful squeak at idle. I ended up changing it to what you see in the pics below. I used a vibration dampening sandwich mount...http://www.mcmaster.com/#9213k62/=10e01lp
The close proximity to the exhaust stack does not affect it. It is a much sturdier mounting than the original design. The pipe bracket is moved above the cab bracket placing the dampener in between the two. You will also need an additional exhaust clamp. The existing clamp stays where it is to secure the stack to the lower pipe.
horn contact-isolator 002.jpghorn contact-isolator 005.jpghorn contact-isolator 006.jpg
 

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
That is what I am looking for. Thanks for the pics of your set-up, that bushing is bigger than I thought it was.
I have that horrible squeak too, for now, I have something jammed in between the 2 brackets, it will eventually fall out or wear away, so I think your setup will do just fine.
 

archmark

Member
267
20
18
Location
Woodway, TX
Yesterday I got a Westfolk dual spin-on fuel filter assembly installed on my M934. Filled the new filters with fuel prior to installation and she fired right up without any "air-in-the-line" issues.

IMG_1701.jpgIMG_1704.jpg

I also installed a NAPA coolant filter assembly but didn't plumb it in yet. I've got to replace a leaking fan shutterstat, which will happen tomorrow, so I only want to drain the engine coolant once and hopefully kill two birds with one stone. Of course, when I get the block heater, I'll have to go through the exercise one more time.

IMG_1702.jpg

Today I'm installing a spin-on oil filter assembly, replacing the OEM drain plugs with the nifty little Jap oil drain valves that were mentioned on the forum and changing the oil with new Rotella.

Monday I'm hoping to change the transmission fluid with new NAPA 85-405 HD Tractor Hydraulic & Transmission Fluid and the transfer case & differentials with NAPA NOL 75213 80W-90 gear oil. IF I can get all that done, the all the fluids will have been changed and I can start on the other projects like a new steering wheel, back-up camera, back-up lights, 24V-12V converters and probably a few other things that I can't remember...

Mark
 

JohnnyBM931A2

Member
877
1
18
Location
Crystal Lake, Illinois
Yesterday I got a Westfolk dual spin-on fuel filter assembly installed on my M934. Filled the new filters with fuel prior to installation and she fired right up without any "air-in-the-line" issues.

View attachment 600599View attachment 600600

I also installed a NAPA coolant filter assembly but didn't plumb it in yet. I've got to replace a leaking fan shutterstat, which will happen tomorrow, so I only want to drain the engine coolant once and hopefully kill two birds with one stone. Of course, when I get the block heater, I'll have to go through the exercise one more time.

View attachment 600601

Today I'm installing a spin-on oil filter assembly, replacing the OEM drain plugs with the nifty little Jap oil drain valves that were mentioned on the forum and changing the oil with new Rotella.

Monday I'm hoping to change the transmission fluid with new NAPA 85-405 HD Tractor Hydraulic & Transmission Fluid and the transfer case & differentials with NAPA NOL 75213 80W-90 gear oil. IF I can get all that done, the all the fluids will have been changed and I can start on the other projects like a new steering wheel, back-up camera, back-up lights, 24V-12V converters and probably a few other things that I can't remember...

Mark
I believe that is the same fluid I used in my trans.. Really helped smooth out the shifts :)
 

gottaluvit

Active member
Used my 5 ton yesterday to pick up another M105A2 I had dropped off at my mother's since her place is right off I-70. I wanted to do it yesterday as we were having dinner there and my son was in town and I wanted to let him put a couple miles on it. His wife decided against it.

Then today I removed the air filters in the trailer and blew out the lines before hooking them all up. Had a leaky valve on my emergency side of the truck but only had to tighten the nut so it could shut all the way off. After reassembling the air filters on the trailer I used the 5 ton to check all the brakes on the trailer. First was the parking brake and she just slid both wheels as I dragged it. Next, turn on the air valves and see what happens. (I did clean the air tank drain valve first.) A burst of air and silence. Got up to 5 or so mph and layed on the brakes and my truck aint never stopped so fast. Got out to look for skid marks in the gravel and both tires on the trailer locked! Yippee. Everything works on that trailer, to include all the lights (even blackouts and blackout brake lights). Then I put it's new cover on that was neatly folded and strapped to the bows. Not only works great but looks great too. Pics have to wait as the rain rolled in. Now the other one that I snipped the last second bid on isn't so perfect. Back section of tarp is unsewed and right parking brake wont lock when dragging. It looks wet so I suppose a wheel cylinder failed and saturated the shoes. Springtime project.
 

archmark

Member
267
20
18
Location
Woodway, TX
That's what I understand, after having viewed the Youtube video at www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3ccBMMyNuA. HOPEFULLY this won't ignite the whole oil vs. transmission fluid debate all over again, which is like arguing over which are better, true redheads or true blondes.

While Allison is more than happy to sell all the TransSynd that they can, for the few thousand miles that I drive my trucks a year, the $56/5 gallon pail of NAPA hyd/trans fluid works for me. If I was driving it full time, every day, then I'd probably go with the syn, but for my amount of use, this'll work...

Mark
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,826
4,161
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
HOPEFULLY this won't ignite the whole oil vs. transmission fluid debate all over again, which is like arguing over which are better, true redheads or true blondes.
There's really nothing to argue (differences are all an illusion, self-induced).

Like Gandhi put it "All religions are true". Amen.
 
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