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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

Buffalobwana

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It's inspection time, so went around truck and found that the high beams didn't work. Found broken wire right at the plug that takes wiring harness to the hood. No way to easily solder it since it broke flush at the plug. Traced down #17 wire, and cut it and made a jumper. Happened to have a #17 tag off an old piece of wire from a busted headlight, so I crimped that on it, for good measure. Now it has 3 of the #17 tags in a 6" stretch. In case anyone wondered.

Now I have to figure out why the horn makes a toy truck sound "weeeeee" not very manly, or convincing. Or audible. The inspector usually just walks around the truck oohing and awwwing at it anyway. Never checks horn or lights. I'm going to try it. But I'd like to have a horn. They come in handy.
 

Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
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Now I have to figure out why the horn makes a toy truck sound "weeeeee" not very manly, or convincing. Or audible. The inspector usually just walks around the truck oohing and awwwing at it anyway. Never checks horn or lights. I'm going to try it. But I'd like to have a horn. They come in handy.
If it's making noise then you have pressure. Look in the bells and make sure they are clear. You should be able to see the diaphragms in the back. The rear covers can be removed to check the diaphragms. There is most likely some trash in there. The tone can also be adusted a little with the screws in the back but you need them working properly before you do that. They're not really manly horns to begin with though, even when working right.

If you can't get that one working right, and want to stay with a stock horn, I have a NOS horn I'd let go of. It's in my "not junk but never going to use it pile". :mrgreen:

Or if you want a manly horn to deafen that pesky inspector with...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...k&p=1848002&highlight=Stuttertone#post1848002
 

Buffalobwana

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Even stock horns hurt the ears of little kids when I honk beside them. And they are always waving and want me to honk, so I do.

Ill look at the horns, they are very finicky. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Now they don't work, maybe with pressure loss, debris falls away and when pressured up, it blocks it ... sometimes.

Thanks for the tip,

i should install a second second set for those times you absolutely must make some noise!
 

Buffalobwana

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Frisco Texas
I found these cool interior dome lights on eBay. 24v and they even match the paint color! :razz:
IMG_8551.jpg

I wanted a red interior light, so it doesn't mess with your night sight. Plus, it looks wicked. So I swapped out the bulb with an LED that is brighter. I'll mount it center rear, with a switch on the dash, by the other stuff I have/will install.
 

Csm Davis

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Hattiesburg, Mississippi
I found these cool interior dome lights on eBay. 24v and they even match the paint color! :razz:
View attachment 680074

I wanted a red interior light, so it doesn't mess with your night sight. Plus, it looks wicked. So I swapped out the bulb with an LED that is brighter. I'll mount it center rear, with a switch on the dash, by the other stuff I have/will install.
Umm dude you know that's a clearance light right? 😁

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

Csm Davis

Well-known member
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Hattiesburg, Mississippi
If it's making noise then you have pressure. Look in the bells and make sure they are clear. You should be able to see the diaphragms in the back. The rear covers can be removed to check the diaphragms. There is most likely some trash in there. The tone can also be adusted a little with the screws in the back but you need them working properly before you do that. They're not really manly horns to begin with though, even when working right.

If you can't get that one working right, and want to stay with a stock horn, I have a NOS horn I'd let go of. It's in my "not junk but never going to use it pile". :mrgreen:

Or if you want a manly horn to deafen that pesky inspector with...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...k&p=1848002&highlight=Stuttertone#post1848002
The bells will also unscrew. Might can get a longer bell.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

Tinstar

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It will sorta work but that is, as already mentioned, a clearance light.
The lense pattern is designed a certain way.
Its not a flood pattern like a dome light would be.

I wouldn't use it, but that's me.
 

Buffalobwana

Well-known member
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Frisco Texas
Whatever dude. It's a dome light now.

Im a trendsetter! Just watch ... the copycats are going, "Why didn't I think about that!

it will become industry standard on all custom jobs from now on!
 

Ford Mechanic

Active member
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Edenton, NC
I resealed the power steering resoviour, replace the filter, and changed the fluid.

Also gotta thank simp for the insight and air diagrams for the air brakes. I was having air leaking into the stack when the pedal depressed. I found it to be the Q2 or front axle quick release as is known other places. So has anyone priced that valve lately with a surplus dealer!? $125-175 is what I was quoted! So after a little digging and a call to Bendix (where I got some great info on the working of this valve) I found that most any front axle quick release valve will work. But finding one with a threaded exhaust is the hard part. So buy on with the correct other ports and buy a 3/8 pipe thread die and cut the threads yourself! Mine turned out just fine and works correctly. I used bendix #229505.

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Tinstar

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Whatever dude. It's a dome light now.

Im a trendsetter! Just watch ... the copycats are going, "Why didn't I think about that!

it will become industry standard on all custom jobs from now on!
Knock yourself out.

Edit; Go for it.

All in a good way and no smart tone intended
 
Last edited:
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