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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?
- Thread starter dezert ratt
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- Leechburg, PA
This is what I read. And it didn’t mention the nuts like your pic did thank you
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I left for a deployment and my M923 sat for 6 months. At the last minute I put a bag of rice as dessicant in a paper cup I placed on the fuel fill strainer. Came back and the rice did the job as it was soaked some but probably should have put more to keep it completely dry.
The truck started fine and no water in the separator. I then decided to replace the soaked rice with a bag of dessicant using a mix of rice and dry beans. Funny thing is the decomposing beans cause a bit of pressure in the tank which cause a positive pressure to the fuel pump. I might just go buy some professional dessicant for fuel cap at this point or make one as beans might produce methane and hydrogen, but I just wanted to share the story.
The truck started fine and no water in the separator. I then decided to replace the soaked rice with a bag of dessicant using a mix of rice and dry beans. Funny thing is the decomposing beans cause a bit of pressure in the tank which cause a positive pressure to the fuel pump. I might just go buy some professional dessicant for fuel cap at this point or make one as beans might produce methane and hydrogen, but I just wanted to share the story.
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Check your tank vents, sounds like they are plugged…
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yes , diesel is safe for that as well as flushing the xfer case .. You can do the transmission without running it down the road, which I would be concerned with although i reluctantly have done it .. Instead, you can put xfer case in neutral and run the tranny through each gear a number of times, spending time in each.. Putting the majority of time in the higher gears will fling the liquid rather well, and this flush doesn't put any load/strain on gear and bearing surfaces.. I would do it for 15 minutes max per total runtime, but that is IMO..
Let it soak 15 minutes in between two or three runs.. Crack the drain between runs to see what you have.. If it doesn't appear that dirty, tighten the plug and run it again.. If 2nd or 3rd attempt doesn't make much difference in color, then your tranny was pretty good !! Same goes with the xfer case .. If you don't want to run the road to also do the xfer case, of course you will have to unbolt the two appropriate driveshafts ...
Back when it was a lot cheaper, I had also tried out an auto-shop parts cleaner solution bought in bulk to flush them out. That stuff had (maybe still has?) higher lubricative properties than today's diesel.. After your flush/drain and drip-dry for a few hours, you might want do the following right after your neighbors head to bed !! Run it thru the gears again briefly to fling any leftover droplets.. Then let the case(s) drain overnight ..
As you may have already guessed after you refill the case(s), it is important to run everything through the gears again in order to get the oil to recoat all surfaces, most-importantly to get a coating on the seals before the truck goes anywhere or not
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That is what I was wondering too. Last time I forced a bit of air in the tank it seemed to vent out somehow but I thought it took quiet a bit of pressure to do that. What is strange is that moisture was getting in from somewhere somehow and so I had to put dessicant on the strainer.
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The vent lines are small but should have trouble keeping up with “natural” pressure changes. I suppose closing them could help with moisture over long term storage along with a “full” tank to minimize air space. However during normal operations they need to be open to allow air/moisture in.
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Much safer for you and your equipment to use the pintle for pulling
also much easier to pull whole trees over than a short stump.
Assuming you have a long enough chain, cable or strap!
Stump took a LOT more persuasion than the trees
duly noted. A big rope is also lighter and safer than my chain too, I suppose.
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With some help from my lil buddy we removed emoved all of the CTIS Junk from my wheels today, now I can see which ones still leak the worst, and replace them with good known spare wheel/tires that I have .
So much cleaner w/o that stuff on there, I shall paint them up proper when paint is obtained
A'll of the removed CTIS parts are conveniently placed in a flat rate box for safe keeping
So much cleaner w/o that stuff on there, I shall paint them up proper when paint is obtained
A'll of the removed CTIS parts are conveniently placed in a flat rate box for safe keeping
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.With some help from my lil buddy we removed emoved all of the CTIS Junk from my wheels today, now I can see which ones still leak the worst, and replace them with good known spare wheel/tires that I have .
So much cleaner w/o that stuff on there, I shall paint them up proper when paint is obtained
A'll of the removed CTIS parts are conveniently placed in a flat rate box for safe keeping
View attachment 909221View attachment 909222View attachment 909223
And it looks like your helper is out there getting trained up on tire maintenance...
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The trucks were delivered this AM. Now it’s time to work first thing I’m going is draining the fuel and replacing with fresh. I will have questions so hopefully you can guys will help.
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Good looking projects!
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The one in the garage runs the other I bought for the winch it has the engine in it but is missing the injector pump and supposedly won’t turn over. But it has more options than the running one lol. So I might be moving some of those options over we will see.
Whorti
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Just put 16x20 XZL on upgraded my alternator and resolved a ABS issue now just waiting on one O-ring to get to me for my last tire and then got to figure out my 5th gear lock out solenoid issue
Valor
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- Apple Valley, Ca.
Greased one u-joint on the trans to transfer case driveshaft of my M923A2. Is there any special way to do this? How does the military do this in this driveshaft? I can't get my grease gun with small tip to line up with the fitting. Is taking each end off the only way? Gotta be an easier way. I tried taking that one bolt out but still can't get it on straight. Greg
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I think I can reach all mine with my long needle tip. Reminds me about time to do this…
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The needle that @Jbulach referenced looks kinda like this (pic below). Your grease gun attaches to the back, the needle depresses the "ball" on the grease fitting. Have a rag handy...
Valor
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I've seen those before but never considered them. I wonder if you could take the zerk fitting out and use that in the hole instead of pushing the ball in. I can see why you would need a rag handy! Thanks for the reply. I'll try that. It would sure beat taking each end of the driveshaft off!