thz71
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Easy fix. I buy a 72" (6ft) piece of 1/4" and go at it. That line is a you make it your self line. It is easy. take your time. And make sure you re-secure the new line to the frame. From the looks of it you may want to just replace them all out back there while you are at it. Preventive maintenance.
I shall be doing that soon as well.I cut the heads of the rivets off of the rear spring hangers and then wailed away at them trying to remove the rest of the rivets or get the hangers off. They refuse to cooperate.
Good advice thanks manEasy fix. I buy a 72" (6ft) piece of 1/4" and go at it. That line is a you make it your self line. It is easy. take your time. And make sure you re-secure the new line to the frame. From the looks of it you may want to just replace them all out back there while you are at it. Preventive maintenance.
And the threads on the fittings are 1/2-20?Easy fix. I buy a 72" (6ft) piece of 1/4" and go at it. That line is a you make it your self line. It is easy. take your time. And make sure you re-secure the new line to the frame. From the looks of it you may want to just replace them all out back there while you are at it. Preventive maintenance.
I did this recently. Make sure the heads are all the way ground down. Then hit it with a bigger hammer. They will come off.I cut the heads of the rivets off of the rear spring hangers and then wailed away at them trying to remove the rest of the rivets or get the hangers off. They refuse to cooperate.
You got me on that one. It is 1/4 " double flared tubing. It has the correct flare nuts on the end. The cross axle lines are 3/16" and I would change the wheel cylinders while I was at it. Less the $40. for the pair.And the threads on the fittings are 1/2-20?
Yup. And use a thick punch with a nice sharp point. The heavy punch transfers the energy of the hammer blow better than a thin/light punch.I did this recently. Make sure the heads are all the way ground down. Then hit it with a bigger hammer. They will come off.
I always take the old one off first to measure it's length and then cut both ends off and take them with me to the parts store and lay them on the counter and tell them the length.You got me on that one. It is 1/4 " double flared tubing. It has the correct flare nuts on the end. The cross axle lines are 3/16" and I would change the wheel cylinders while I was at it. Less the $40. for the pair.
Ok. I held to my promise. One is the tow strap hook type. I picked these up at the GA rally in fresh green but the only flat rattlecan I had was black. Had to thin the tow strap one down with the grinder so my pin would go deep enough for the retaining pin hole to protrude. The regular type is not for a CUCV either and the guy selling them told me in advance that I would have to grind the inside so it would fit. No problem, but had to make them all black. I still like them. I got two of each but only used one tow strap hook type on the CUCV and one on my five ton.We're holding you to it:
- You promised.
I also only have 2 of the correct styleOk. I held to my promise. One is the tow strap hook type. I picked these up at the GA rally in fresh green but the only flat rattlecan I had was black. Had to thin the tow strap one down with the grinder so my pin would go deep enough for the retaining pin hole to protrude. The regular type is not for a CUCV either and the guy selling them told me in advance that I would have to grind the inside so it would fit. No problem, but had to make them all black. I still like them. I got two of each but only used one tow strap hook type on the CUCV and one on my five ton.
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Put the only two I had, on the rear. Was running only one front and one rear.
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I like that tow strap type hook,it would also serve me as a step up when working under hood.Im a short old man.Ok. I held to my promise. One is the tow strap hook type. I picked these up at the GA rally in fresh green but the only flat rattlecan I had was black. Had to thin the tow strap one down with the grinder so my pin would go deep enough for the retaining pin hole to protrude. The regular type is not for a CUCV either and the guy selling them told me in advance that I would have to grind the inside so it would fit. No problem, but had to make them all black. I still like them. I got two of each but only used one tow strap hook type on the CUCV and one on my five ton.
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Put the only two I had, on the rear. Was running only one front and one rear.
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Hey, that's a very good point. I will have to try that myself as I am vertically challenged myself. It might just swing back and dump me though.I like that tow strap type hook,it would also serve me as a step up when working under hood.Im a short old man.
Member K9Vic made a neat looking step that attaches to the frame of a CUCV or his clone in this case.I like that tow strap type hook,it would also serve me as a step up when working under hood.Im a short old man.
Hey, that works!lol,lately I have pulling 1009 up to my junk 93 cutlass and standing on cutlass hood.
I usually just "climb in" under the hood on my civy Chevys, but these inner fenders are shot. My cat would fall through the drivers side if she walked on it. Spring swap job.lol,lately I have pulling 1009 up to my junk 93 cutlass and standing on cutlass hood.