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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

3jumpjeep

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Linsdale, TN
The CUCVLOVER steering wheel Mod. This should go in the stickys. Along with the oven mitts. My steering wheel and shifter gets so hot I wear boxing gloves when I drive. That just me fair skinned blonde haired blue eyes. :)
I drape a white towel over the steering wheel and put a reflective windshield thing up. So far I've managed to avoid ovenmitts and boxing gloves.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
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Well I opened a can of worms today ! I had bought some poly bushings for the rear springs a while back. So today I thought I would do a quick install and get it over with. Well the U-bolts had other plans ! It seems they got a bad case of cancer (rust) and didn't want to come off. I ended up with my 3/4" impact wrench going at them for quite a while ! Now I need new U-bolts and I think I will just go with the reverse U-bolt kit from "ORD" . That way I won't get all the crap around the U-bolts again.
I know I said I would not post pictures of my "ex" CUCV anymore but I would like an answer to a question about the overload springs. The overload brackets are riveted on so it came from the factory that way. Did all the M1028 CUCV's come with them on even if they didn't have overload springs ? My truck was originally set-up to haul a 400 gallon anti-fire foam tank. They kept the tank (since it was stainless steel) when I got it from GSA back in 1997.
I had heard years back (from a source I cannot remember) that one should never reuse the u-bolts. I just cut them off with a cut-off wheel on the angle grinder. I jump every time each one pops, as it startles me even though I know it's coming. I have rebuilt or added to a few spring packs and I just go to Wheeling Spring, where they make their own, with my old ones and will have a new set in just a couple days. You may have a local place there that makes them. If I am remembering right it is around $55/set for the last set they made me.
 
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rustystud

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I had heard years back (from a source I cannot remember) that one should never reuse the u-bolts. I just cut them off with a cut-off wheel on the angle grinder. I jump every time each one pops, as it startles me even though I know it's coming. I have rebuilt or added to a few spring packs and I just go to Wheeling Spring, where they make their own, with my old ones and will have a new set in just a couple days. You may have a local place there that makes them. If I am remembering right it is around $55/set for the last set they made me.
Your right, you are never suppose to reuse U-bolts. I was just "hoping" that I could get away with it as money is tight lately.
Today I ground off the rivet heads on the "bump stop bracket" and used my air-hammer to pop out the rivets. Now I can use the reverse U-bolt kit. I also reinstalled the springs with the new "ORD" poly bushings and heavy duty shackles along with greasable pins. What a royal pain !!! I am so sore right now ! My old and damaged body does not like doing that at all !!!
 

Drock

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Eatonton GA
Your right, you are never suppose to reuse U-bolts. I was just "hoping" that I could get away with it as money is tight lately.
Today I ground off the rivet heads on the "bump stop bracket" and used my air-hammer to pop out the rivets. Now I can use the reverse U-bolt kit. I also reinstalled the springs with the new "ORD" poly bushings and heavy duty shackles along with greasable pins. What a royal pain !!! I am so sore right now ! My old and damaged body does not like doing that at all !!!
Oh Yeah, those rivets are a nightmare! I feel your pain it, took me a Full day to get the 8 out for the ORD shackle flip kit using 3 drill bits and a punch.
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Oh Yeah, those rivets are a nightmare! I feel your pain it, took me a Full day to get the 8 out for the ORD shackle flip kit using 3 drill bits and a punch.
My ex's father showed me a good trick to remove those rivets in minutes. Take the infamous angle grinder with the cutoff wheel and cut the rivet head in half (coming straight into it vertically) and then turn the grinder on a 90° angle cutting each half of a rivet head in half again. Now the rivet head is quartered. Then a few smacks with a super sharp thin American made chisel against the frame and into the rivet head and it is cut right off. There is very little material left holding each quarter of the rivet head after the cut off wheel has sliced it in four pieces. Of course this only works where you can get the grinder in.
 

rsh4364

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greensprings ,ohio
Been away for a while but I keep changing oil at 3k 1009 so hopin my 86 1009, added a set of truck lites 07392. Recently ordered a set of rigid 55003 headlights, a pair of trucklite 07382 driving lights, and a pair of trucklite 07397 spots. Those truck lites look like little pieces of the sun. I also ordered parts for my 85 rusty 1009 so I hope to have it running by the end of the month.
 
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Recovry4x4

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Been away for a while but I keep changing oil at 3k 1009 so hopin my 86 1009, added a set of truck lites 07392. Recently ordered a set of rigid 55003 headlights, a pair of trucklite 07382 driving lights, and a pair of trucklite 07397 spots. Those truck lites look like little pieces of the sun. I also ordered parts for my 85 rusty 1009 so I hope to have it running by the end of the month.
Curious to see where you hung all those lights.
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
Oh Yeah, those rivets are a nightmare! I feel your pain it, took me a Full day to get the 8 out for the ORD shackle flip kit using 3 drill bits and a punch.
I wasn't referring to removing the rivets. That only took a few minutes with the grinder and air-hammer (air-chisel). The problem was lifting those heavy springs up onto the axle !!!! Then getting the bushings into the brackets. Hammer, Hammer, Hammer !!!! Pry, Pry, Pry !!!!
Today I lifted the axle up to the springs. Another easy job !! Now all I need is the new U-bolts.
I was looking in the GM shop manual and I see that the C30 and P30 both had the option of a rear anti-sway bar. They had an extra bracket hanging down from the U-bolts that the sway bar mounted to. Of course I already ordered the reverse U-bolt kit from "ORD" . I'm sure that finding those brackets from the C30 and P30 would be extremely hard to find so I guess I'll still stick with the reverse U-bolts.
 

86m1028

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I wasn't referring to removing the rivets. That only took a few minutes with the grinder and air-hammer (air-chisel). The problem was lifting those heavy springs up onto the axle !!!! Then getting the bushings into the brackets. Hammer, Hammer, Hammer !!!! Pry, Pry, Pry !!!!
Today I lifted the axle up to the springs. Another easy job !! Now all I need is the new U-bolts.
I was looking in the GM shop manual and I see that the C30 and P30 both had the option of a rear anti-sway bar. They had an extra bracket hanging down from the U-bolts that the sway bar mounted to. Of course I already ordered the reverse U-bolt kit from "ORD" . I'm sure that finding those brackets from the C30 and P30 would be extremely hard to find so I guess I'll still stick with the reverse U-bolts.
Ive got a project that I'm building & wanted the rear sway bar & narrow dually rear axle.
I looked everywhere for the parts & couldn't find them seperate.
I ended buying a complete p30 chassis RV for the parts.
As a bonus the sway bar on the p30 is MASSIVE !
Im betting when installed & done, I could change a front tire by jacking up the rear side !
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Ive got a project that I'm building & wanted the rear sway bar & narrow dually rear axle.
I looked everywhere for the parts & couldn't find them seperate.
I ended buying a complete p30 chassis RV for the parts.
As a bonus the sway bar on the p30 is MASSIVE !
Im betting when installed & done, I could change a front tire by jacking up the rear side !
I figured it could be done pretty easily. I didn't know how hard it would be to get the parts though. How does your truck handle now with the sway bar in ? Do you tow much with your truck ? I tow a RV trailer around and sometimes in high wind areas it can whip me around pretty good.
 

Recovry4x4

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Almost every 2WD dually had that sway bar. Keep looking for trucks being parted or ebay. There is a guy out west (ebay) who has sold a couple for around $200 delivered.
 

86m1028

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I figured it could be done pretty easily. I didn't know how hard it would be to get the parts though. How does your truck handle now with the sway bar in ? Do you tow much with your truck ? I tow a RV trailer around and sometimes in high wind areas it can whip me around pretty good.
rustystud
I can't answer your questions yet. The axle & swaybar are still under the RV chassis.
The p30 swaybar is MASSIVE compared to the 2wd dually swaybar.

Recovery4x can answer your questions, he has DONE it on his m1031.
 

rsh4364

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greensprings ,ohio
Curious to see where you hung all those lights.
Sofar just have the floods mounted in the grill guard.the 07382 driving lights will also be mounted in the grill guard. The 07397 spots and another set of 07392 floods will go in the smittybilt #40204 and smittybilt #40002 on top of cab.I had to cut some of the horizontal supports on the grill guard and will weld back in afterwards. The lights are 7 inches in diameter.
 
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cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I left all mine parked. CUCV in 97 degree weather makes a nice lawn ornament. And that is all I am going to say about that. With them all CUCV'S lined up it looks like someone that lives here likes them.
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
You know I was thinking there was no way that axle could ever hit the bump stops. I was looking at them today and there is no sign of any wear on the rubber. Maybe I will just remove that whole bracket assembly and go with the reverse U-bolt kit.
Thanks Drock.
For some reason this site is really slow tonight. In fact it has bumped me off twice now ! I think these pictures will go through though. One shows where I removed the bump stop bracket and the other shows the heavy duty "ORD" shackles I went with.
 

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