• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

swiss

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,725
833
113
Location
Oakwood, Ga
Took the m1008 out for highway road test with the new vent seal. Omg the driver side door vent window was silent, no whooose, whistle. Now the passenger side was howling so that is next. At this point at 60 mph I can almost have a normal conversation


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Ando427

New member
25
1
0
Location
San Diego, Ca
I rebuilt the transmission! I suspect mine had the seal between transmission and transfer case go bad (a bad seal on a 31 year old truck?? Unbelievable!) since the transmission fluid had seemingly disappeared with no traces of an external leak. Every time I walk up to the CUCV I look at the ground to see if there's anything more than the typical few drops from the IP, and I never once saw anything suspicious; the transmission case was also bone dry, yet I know the transmission fluid had been full just a month ago when I last checked it. Anyways, I found out there was a problem when I shifted into reverse to pull out of my driveway and the transmission made a very loud and unsettling metallic clanking noise.
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
696
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
Where did you source the seals? I've been needing to replace pretty much every piece of weatherstrip on my 09.

Took the m1008 out for highway road test with the new vent seal. Omg the driver side door vent window was silent, no whooose, whistle. Now the passenger side was howling so that is next. At this point at 60 mph I can almost have a normal conversation


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

swiss

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,725
833
113
Location
Oakwood, Ga
You gotta be careful.....you must look at your vent windows, what you'v got.
There are one-piece and two-piece seals......
My research shows the one piece works for all. On the m1008 I replaced a 2 piece with s one piece


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

swiss

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,725
833
113
Location
Oakwood, Ga
Where did you source the seals? I've been needing to replace pretty much every piece of weatherstrip on my 09.
I posted these part numbers and pictures in this thread before. Search my posts under my profile


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

FrankenCub

Active member
296
29
28
Location
Broome Co., NY
Had to make a run into Pa today to pick up a dirt bike for my daughter. Filled up with bio-diesel at Mirabito and after an hour of pounding down 81s and my fuel gauge not moving I got a bit nervous. On the way back stopped at the nearest gas station for some more diesel, thinking the sender wire shorted against the frame or something, I find it only took 6 gallons. I'm officially impressed, a little better than 18mpg at 55mph. But after 4 hours of pounding on Pa roads I swear I will never again complain about NY roads!

Not without casualties though, just as I was getting home I started getting some odd noises coming from the passenger front and felt something creating some binding, enough I felt it slow the truck climbing a hill. Thinking something is coming unglued in the brake as I just replaced all the wheel bearings.
 

scottladdy

Member
538
8
18
Location
CT
Had to make a run into Pa today to pick up a dirt bike for my daughter. Filled up with bio-diesel at Mirabito and after an hour of pounding down 81s and my fuel gauge not moving I got a bit nervous. On the way back stopped at the nearest gas station for some more diesel, thinking the sender wire shorted against the frame or something, I find it only took 6 gallons. I'm officially impressed, a little better than 18mpg at 55mph. But after 4 hours of pounding on Pa roads I swear I will never again complain about NY roads!

Not without casualties though, just as I was getting home I started getting some odd noises coming from the passenger front and felt something creating some binding, enough I felt it slow the truck climbing a hill. Thinking something is coming unglued in the brake as I just replaced all the wheel bearings.
Recent trip to NH with a decent load in the M1008 bed, Gear Vendors OD, 70+ MPH achieved 16 MPG almost dead on. In my "normal" driving I regularly hit 18 MPG which is combination of "city" and "highway" driving.

Developed an unusual off again on again vibration from the front end like a tire imbalance. Just had the tires balanced at a very reputable shop and witnessed the work so I knew the tires were good. Next most likely suspect in terms of rotating mass that could be out of balance was rotors. So I did a brake job on the front and as it turns out the 32 year old rotors had corroded enough that they were seriously out of balance. The original weights were in the cooling fins where they came balanced from GM. So, while the rotors were "good" in that they met thickness criteria they were no longer balanced.

She now purrs heading down the road with outstanding manners straight and true and can keep up with traffic all while maintaining the benefits of the 4.56 final drive ratio when it is needed. Having replaced the springs 3 years ago with Stanley/Dayton, all suspension and body bushings with polyurethane, and new shocks all about the same time.

Also recently replaced the leaking CU850 Spectra/Premium heavy brass/copper radiator I installed a year or so ago with what is turning out to be an awesome APDI PRO 8010607 Aluminum rad. A fraction of the price, much lighter in weight and fits almost perfectly. I do not believe the leak in the Spectra unit as due to poor manufacturing quality (although it is definitely NOT a Harris) but rather the fact that no one I dealt with (including NAPA) would ship a > 50 lb. unit in something stronger than the factory packaging which is NOT a certified shipping container. As a result every rad I received (I went through 8 ) had some damage.

Benefit of the aluminum rad: Cabin Heat! The engine heats up way quicker. I was concerned that this indicated a potential for too low a cooling capacity. However, running in our Memorial Day parade crawling for an hour and a half in 4 low with only the fan pulling air over the rad in 85F heat she showed zero signs of getting too hot.
 

swiss

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,725
833
113
Location
Oakwood, Ga
Where did you source the seals? I've been needing to replace pretty much every piece of weatherstrip on my 09.
From my previous posts
M1008 Window and Door Seal Kit

AM-Autoparts is a good supplier of different items. I have bought a lot of base components for the CUCV's from them and they are reliable, quality parts and stand behind the products.

This is the seal kit. It is cheaper direct then on E-Bay

https://www.am-autoparts.com/search.html?q=1awss00144

The m1009 seal kit they have is awesome it will give you every seal even the vent windows and rear top seals. If somebody calls them post the part number as I did that a long time ago on my 1009. It is a day project on the 1009. The 1008 takes about 2 hours
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,466
10,401
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Idling an hour and a half is hardly a true test for cooling capability. Put a load on that truck and drive it loaded up and down the hills and highways and back roads where I live. That will give it a true test. I haul a 6 Ft wide X 10 Ft long wood trailer with my stock Crown of Thorns M1009 and I go on some steep hills on secondary roads and have had the temperature up to 210-220 and I have the Spectra radiator. This M1009 still has the stock OEM heads and gaskets on it. And getting a max loaded M1008 on I 81 north at 65 70 MPH stock can make the temperature gauge rise. Until I see an aluminum radiator that fits in the mounts better then the ones I have seen I am still going to use the Brass and copper or prefer the plastic tank aluminum core radiators. This is purely a choice and a preference from my experiences. The 4 core radiator is not needed. it is nice but not needed even when towing. I have seen the spectra drop from the 4 core to 3 core in the last few years. Good Luck. Any good radiator shop can fix the leaking spectra for much less then a new radiator and I have a lifetime warranty on the spectra. I can wait a month till they get a perfect one shipped in. I did get in touch with a higher rank Autozone rep and he had one sent to my address at home and it was packed like pro.
 

scottladdy

Member
538
8
18
Location
CT
... prefer the plastic tank aluminum core radiators. ...
Thanks Rick, good advice and I will keep an eye on it. I have had her out on the highway since with a decent load, up and down the rolling hills hour and a half trip to Worcester MA in 80F weather with zero issues. Forgot to mention that.

The APDI PRO is a plastic tanked aluminum core FYI. Fits well.
 

FrankenCub

Active member
296
29
28
Location
Broome Co., NY
Had to make a run into Pa today to pick up a dirt bike for my daughter. Filled up with bio-diesel at Mirabito and after an hour of pounding down 81s and my fuel gauge not moving I got a bit nervous. On the way back stopped at the nearest gas station for some more diesel, thinking the sender wire shorted against the frame or something, I find it only took 6 gallons. I'm officially impressed, a little better than 18mpg at 55mph. But after 4 hours of pounding on Pa roads I swear I will never again complain about NY roads!

Not without casualties though, just as I was getting home I started getting some odd noises coming from the passenger front and felt something creating some binding, enough I felt it slow the truck climbing a hill. Thinking something is coming unglued in the brake as I just replaced all the wheel bearings.
Well a bit of a sad update to last night's post. Tore into my M1008 today hoping for a brake issue. Brakes looked great, pass side axle shaft is sloppy which I knew but not creating any issues. So I moved back in the driveline. The transfer case is shot. Had the rear on stands and tranny in neutral, had to force the drive shaft to turn with a pry bar. When it would turn I could feel and hear grinding towards the input shaft of the case, even feel it in the case.
Kinda torn on rolling the dice on a used T-case from the local U-Pull it yard or order a reman case for $650. The reman would definitely be a safer bet but much more costly initially.
 

Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
Well a bit of a sad update to last night's post. Tore into my M1008 today hoping for a brake issue. Brakes looked great, pass side axle shaft is sloppy which I knew but not creating any issues. So I moved back in the driveline. The transfer case is shot. Had the rear on stands and tranny in neutral, had to force the drive shaft to turn with a pry bar. When it would turn I could feel and hear grinding towards the input shaft of the case, even feel it in the case.
Kinda torn on rolling the dice on a used T-case from the local U-Pull it yard or order a reman case for $650. The reman would definitely be a safer bet but much more costly initially.

Doh!

How easy it it to spin the driveshaft with the transfer case in neutral? The NP208 is pretty easy to rebuild if you want to try it yourself. A seal and bearing kit can be had for less than $150, and a new chain for about $100.
 

FrankenCub

Active member
296
29
28
Location
Broome Co., NY
Doh!

How easy it it to spin the driveshaft with the transfer case in neutral? The NP208 is pretty easy to rebuild if you want to try it yourself. A seal and bearing kit can be had for less than $150, and a new chain for about $100.
It's not! I really have to force it to spin the drive shaft. It's seizing and most likely tearing the case up and I can tell there's a bit of load on the engine backing it out of the barn. Didn't even bother to put fluid back in it seems it's coming out.
I did find one locally on CL for $40, I may go check it out. As long as it isn't loose I may grab it and new seals to get my truck back.
 

computer54

Member
317
1
18
Location
Nashville,TN
I have a diffent problem om transfer case ,Mine jumps out of gear and then you have to stop the truck and but trans back in park and then you can fix it. Got a rebuild kit from Rockauto .com and it was only 110 with shipping because the autoparts here in town don't stock it and can't get it .
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
It's not! I really have to force it to spin the drive shaft. It's seizing and most likely tearing the case up and I can tell there's a bit of load on the engine backing it out of the barn. Didn't even bother to put fluid back in it seems it's coming out.
I did find one locally on CL for $40, I may go check it out. As long as it isn't loose I may grab it and new seals to get my truck back.
Sounds like the sun gear? Broke on the input- I have a transfer like that- it's hard to turn in any gear(4h, 4l n, 2)

When you look at used, make sure the input can spin the outputs with resistance on the outputs(hold them as tight as you can) not an exact science, but it can point to other issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
It's not! I really have to force it to spin the drive shaft. It's seizing and most likely tearing the case up and I can tell there's a bit of load on the engine backing it out of the barn. Didn't even bother to put fluid back in it seems it's coming out.
I did find one locally on CL for $40, I may go check it out. As long as it isn't loose I may grab it and new seals to get my truck back.
Whatever it ends up being a good autopsy of the part would be interesting. Depending on the mood an autopsy via forklift, excavator or front end loader might help you feel better. I'm curious to see what you find once you pull the driveshafts and get to checking and removing parts.
 
Top