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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Volvo740turbo

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That looks like 9 pages of simple, but how long will a 12 v starter work on a high compression diesel...as far as I know most diesels on the street still use a 24v system ...i would like to think that if there were a real advantage that manufacturers would have done this long ago so save material and product cost ?? Is there really a benefit that I'm not seeing or is this just a way to change things around to personal preference And maybe avoiding 24v mechanics? I've read about dponf this year's ago but .....
 

german m1008

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That looks like 9 pages of simple, but how long will a 12 v starter work on a high compression diesel...as far as I know most diesels on the street still use a 24v system ...i would like to think that if there were a real advantage that manufacturers would have done this long ago so save material and product cost ?? Is there really a benefit that I'm not seeing or is this just a way to change things around to personal preference And maybe avoiding 24v mechanics? I've read about dponf this year's ago but .....
......only CUCV's use 24V starters.
All civilian use 12V without any issues.
My M1008 is converted to 12V by the PO in the States (Unfortunately), it starts like a champ........
 
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MarcusOReallyus

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Heat gun trick????? Whaaaaaat! Please explain...my door panels are pretty ugly and could use help!

Use a heat gun (go carefully!) to heat up the plastic. It will (usually) bring up the plasticizers that are deep within the plastic, up to the surface. This restores the surface to like-new condition. Well, at least, better than it was. Sometimes it just doesn't work, but usually, it does a great job.

With plastics, over time the plasticizers(chemicals that make it flexible) evaporate out (into our lungs!) and the surface gets looking oxidized and gets brittle. The heat brings up the stuff that is still there.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=use+a+heat+gun+to+restore+plastic&t=ffnt&ia=videos
 

Volvo740turbo

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Use a heat gun (go carefully!) to heat up the plastic. It will (usually) bring up the plasticizers that are deep within the plastic, up to the surface. This restores the surface to like-new condition. Well, at least, better than it was. Sometimes it just doesn't work, but usually, it does a great job.

With plastics, over time the plasticizers(chemicals that make it flexible) evaporate out (into our lungs!) and the surface gets looking oxidized and gets brittle. The heat brings up the stuff that is still there.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=use+a+heat+gun+to+restore+plastic&t=ffnt&ia=videos
Im.buying a heat gun in the morning! I was going to try to use plastic paint on them...this saves me the trouble! Thank you!
 

Volvo740turbo

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Im.buying a heat gun in the morning! I was going to try to use plastic paint on them...this saves me the trouble! Thank you!
I saw some of the videos on this and they say after you heat it and it dries out again that it looks worse than before and it weakens the plastic, just wondering how long this holds up and if applying armour all to it will prolong the finish?
 

cucvrus

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I never used a heat gun method. I soaked them in armor all for a week or longer and then buffed them up real good. They have lasted for years and as long as I keep them clean I think they hold up well.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Yeah, I have read that ArmorAll is basically the same as, or nearly identical to, the plasticizers that were originally in the plastic. I've always had good success with it, but sometimes, things are past that point.

The heat gun trick is really good with things like black plastic fender flares.
 

cucvrus

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The heat gun trick is really good with things like black plastic fender flares.

On Black plastic I use Krylon Fusion in semi gloss or flat black. The Krylon Fusion paint in Camouflage brown does an awesome job of painting the arm rests and door panels of a CUCV. I painted several new blue armrest and installed them. My Mule m1009 has them both painted and installed. Almost perfect match.
 

Another Ahab

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I never used a heat gun method. I soaked them in armor all for a week or longer and then buffed them up real good. They have lasted for years and as long as I keep them clean I think they hold up well.
Are you thinking that's a lot better than brushing on (or spraying on) a couple-or-three coats of the stuff?
 

LastFbody

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Milwaukee WI
Finally fixed my excessive black smoke/mileage issue. After eliminating every other possibility, I determined the fuel adjust screw was set too high. It was likely set for right at sea level seeing as how it was originally deployed in Florida. Followed the same procedure as turning the fuel up as seen on youtube, but instead turned the screw a little over 1/8 turn counterclockwise. That did the trick, less than half the black smoke as before, and very conservatively 18 mpg with mostly city driving. Previous to this adjustment i was getting best case scenario 16 mpg with all highway driving.

Also, dont turn your fuel up unless youre adding a turbo. You'll have a bad time.
 

cucvrus

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Are you thinking that's a lot better than brushing on (or spraying on) a couple-or-three coats of the stuff?
I guess that's a good point. I hang them from a line and look at them everyday and spray more on as the plastic soaks it up. So it has more then 3 coats at places. Other places are not as badly damaged and take less.
 

Rutjes

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Brakes went out coming to a intersection with a red light, almost **** myself and scared aboit 50 people...guess it's time for the next emergency with this trick lol
****, you got of lucky. Could've been a big mess with 2 and a half tons of unstoppable steel.

Been wondering, are there any specialty tools needed for brake maintenance (front or rear)?
 

Volvo740turbo

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St.louis missouri
****, you got of lucky. Could've been a big mess with 2 and a half tons of unstoppable steel.

Been wondering, are there any specialty tools needed for brake maintenance (front or rear)?
Brake fluid was low, I just replaced the front pads a month ago and the rear carrier last week, I didn't see much signs of leaks anywhere on either end of the truck...parts are cheaper than the fluid unfortunately...22$ a quart. Wtf
 
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