ridenby
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- Frankfort,Ky
If it was not dark I would take a picture;yes,I know there is flash,will get a pic tomorrow. Simple is key to me,and this install is.Same here and it looks like it well be an easy install too.
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If it was not dark I would take a picture;yes,I know there is flash,will get a pic tomorrow. Simple is key to me,and this install is.Same here and it looks like it well be an easy install too.
Installed the bolt that was missing from the p.s. pump to the water pump and moved around the starter support bracket...tightened the alternator belts a little...gett8ng ready to start work for the night and see if the noise is still there.Check the starter support bracket. See if it is off and rattling about. I can take a picture of the pump. Are you talking P/S pump???
I'm wondering if the noise I hear is the fuel pump push rod clattering? Anyone ever had a problem like that?Installed the bolt that was missing from the p.s. pump to the water pump and moved around the starter support bracket...tightened the alternator belts a little...gett8ng ready to start work for the night and see if the noise is still there.
Snap-On sells a set of wrenches that are bent almost actually like that. They are called pump wrenches also ! I bought a set years ago when I was trying to remove a pump on an old Detroit Diesel. The Snap-On man had just come on the property (they always come once a week) as I was failing at getting that pump off. He said they had a wrench set for that. I told him if his wrench could bust that nut off I would buy his set of wrenches. It did and I bought the set. Just be careful what you say to the Snap-On man. That cost me a few hundred dollars !Got my M1009 running today after swapping in a rebuilt fuel injection pump by Oregon Fuel Injection.
Unfortunately my brand new radiator had a leak right out of the box.
So I was only able to run it a little bit.
What surprised me was how quickly it started.
I thought about cracking the fuel injector lines and removing glow plugs before first crank.
Then for the heck of it I just got in and let it glow then cranked for 15 seconds and it almost started right at the end.
So I waited 30 seconds and cranked again and it fired right up.
Idled smooth and steady.
Nothing leaked but the radiator.
They are gonna warranty that so now i have to wait till next week for a replacement.
So a rebuilt injection pump.
A new Delco water pump.
New set of AC 60G glow plugs.
New thermostat.
New radiator cap.
New radiator hoses.
New Fluidampr harmonic balancer.
The axle swap might get put on hold.. I am jonesing to drive this thing!
Funny story;
I took my old injection pump to the post office to send back to Oregon Fuel Injection for the $300 core charge.
Thought I had wrapped it up well enough.
I open the door of the p.o. and the postmaster says "Are you kidding me?!"
"What?"
"Whatever you have there will never make it smelling like gas."
"It's diesel actually.."
"Whatever, forget it. Take whatever it is back and clean it until it doesn't stink."
So I had to bring it all the way back up the mountain.
Double bagged it in Hefty garden bags and then bagged it a third time just to be sure.
Honestly, I couldn't smell the diesel in the first place but I do want it to make it through the postal service.
So the price for a Rebuilt Pump from Oregon Fuel Injection was as follows;
Part Number DB2-4267 Rebuilt Pump, 84 HD 6.2 $521.10
Core charge $300
6.2 injection pump install kit (gaskets) $23.77
Priority Mail $37.65
Total $882.52
Return shipping for core $37.65
Core charge refund $300
Grand total $620.17
Notes about Oregon Fuel Injection's customer service;
They are excellent.
Asked me about how I was going to use the truck.
Where I would be using the truck.
What I wanted performance wise.
They built me a pump to my specifications;
I live and work between 9,000 feet and 4,500 feet.
There is a 10% grade between town and the lodge.
We get down to minus 40 degrees sometimes in winter (It's Wyoming).
So, if and when I get a radiator that you know.. holds water.
I will report how this pump handles highway 14A.
Will be running Lucas Diesel additive in every tank henceforth.
My core was operable.
I drove the truck from Portland Oregon to Lovell Wyoming and then another couple hundred to watch the eclipse.
Replaced it because it was seeping fuel out the bowl.
Maybe I could have re-sealed it on the truck but due to it's age and suspecting it to have every bit of 93,000 miles, it seemed prudent to just get a rebuilt pump.
Some helpful things I did to make the replacement procedure easier;
Used a propane plumbers torch to heat and bend a pair of cheap 5/8" wrenches to reach the injector nuts on the pump.
One wrench I bent sideways 45 degrees at the open end head and the other I bend the head forward 90 degrees
It made it a lot easier.
Replacing the water pump at the same time gave me easy access to the pump drive bolts on the gear.
Didn't have to turn the motor to access them through the oil filler hole.
View attachment 698283
Now, if I could only get a new radiator that didn't leak. Patience...
View attachment 698266View attachment 698267View attachment 698268View attachment 698269
The flared ends of the oil cooler lines don't fit inside the replacement radiator.
They bottom out before you can get the nut started.
I trimmed 3/16" off the flare and they went right in.
O-ring seal not pictured.
That **** radiator looked so sweet.
Too bad it was a leaker right out of the box.
I could have soldered it myself but it is under warranty.. just wait Matt.
New Delco water pump.
Engine just before the timing water pump/timing cover went on.
Glad I did all this.
Really like to learn about my vehicles and the best way I can think of is to wrench on them.
www.oregonfuelinjection.com
Did the XJ steering shaft mod.
Steering feels much better now.
Removed the Diagnostic Plug and harness.
In the old days we used a long handled screw driver to find mysterious knocks.
Actually I still do.
Get the longest screwdriver you can find, preferably and old Craftsman with the plastic handle with a ball on the end.
Phillips or flat doesn't matter.
Put the pointy end right up against the block casting where the fuel pump resides.
Carefully press your ear to the plastic handle of the screwdriver
I was wondering that myself.What is the "XJ steering shaft mod"? Is that a steering shaft from an XJ Cherokee? What problem is it solving?
Same here. I thought I was driving fine all these years and now I find out I was doing it all wrong. The secret is the U joints.I was wondering that myself.
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Less play with U joints instead of rag joint. Steering feels much more direct. Do a google search. A LOT of people did the swap. It's pretty much a direct fit.What is the "XJ steering shaft mod"? Is that a steering shaft from an XJ Cherokee? What problem is it solving?
Looks like the exact model radiator I just installed about a month ago.Unfortunately my brand new radiator had a leak right out of the boxNow, if I could only get a new radiator that didn't leak. Patience...
View attachment 698266View attachment 698267
The flared ends of the oil cooler lines don't fit inside the replacement radiator.
They bottom out before you can get the nut started.
I trimmed 3/16" off the flare and they went right in.
O-ring seal not pictured.
That **** radiator looked so sweet.
Too bad it was a leaker right out of the box.
I could have soldered it myself but it is under warranty..
Yea, I was a little ticked off yesterday.Looks like the exact model radiator I just installed about a month ago.
My lines installed without issue. Still no lline or radiator leaks, just checked again yesterday.
Sucks Your having issues with it.
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