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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

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SDJunkMan

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Started mounting a snowplow that I took off of my 1980 K20. Now I know why shops charge so much to swap plows, what a pain in the backside! Hope to finish up this weekend.
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cucvrus

cucvrus

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The only seat latch on the m1028/M1008 is a centrigficail one that swings forward and locks during impact or hard braking. They opted to have no latch. And that was like that on civilian trucks of the same year. it worked well.
 
Tinstar

Tinstar

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TGP (IL) said:
Changed my radiator also Monday.
Sent my original to radiator shop for repair/rebuild.
The aftermarket junk is just that.
Tom
Click to expand...
The copper/brass radiator is still manufactured.
Installed one over a year ago.
Was identical to original and super easy to install the oil lines.
I posted about it with pics and part numbers
 
TGP (IL)

TGP (IL)

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That part number comes up now as a aluminum core with plastic tanks,
From CARQUEST, Murray,O-Riley's and others.

I dropped my original off my Rad. shop he said I can get you new one in Aluminum,
I told him No thanks I have that for now, Spectra SPICU850
Find me a Core.

These parts are changing faster than you can change your socks.

Welcome to the Chinese aftermarket.

Tom
 
S

shotty

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Northern VA :(
TGP (IL) said:
That part number comes up now as a aluminum core with plastic tanks,
From CARQUEST, Murray,O-Riley's and others.

I dropped my original off my Rad. shop he said I can get you new one in Aluminum,
I told him No thanks I have that for now, Spectra SPICU850
Find me a Core.

These parts are changing faster than you can change your socks.

Welcome to the Chinese aftermarket.

Tom
Click to expand...
Yup, had the same problem recently. Got a spectra three or four years ago, was fine. Started leaking about one day after the 2 year warranty was up. Couldn't find another. Ended up with a plastic/aluminum one which is going in this week.
 
rustystud

rustystud

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shotty said:
The only review:

July 10, 2018
It is NOT a copper radiator but a plastic/alu radiator. it works but if you want original copper HD radiator, this is NOT it
Click to expand...

I replaced the core 8 years ago. It was an original replacement by "Moraine" . Now they say it is no longer available. I guess it cost to much money to make it with all that copper. My core cost almost $500.00 then. Now who knows how much they would charge for a solid copper radiator.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

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Drove to work with the windows steamed up. The heater core is leaking in the 1987 M1028. Of course it starts leaking when 16* weather is in the forecast. Oh well. No problem. I can change it in an hour. Just keep the new heater hose inside over night. This is a perfect example of poor timing and having an old truck as a daily driver. My new ride is on the train in Philadelphia. Soon. Have a Great Day and a productive weekend. I am planning on it. And the plastic and aluminum radiators are just as good as the brass/copper ones. GM replacements for the CUCV's were plastic tank aluminum. I ran one in my M1028 for 17 years. It is still the same one 6 years after I sold it. They are like anything else. They are only bad when they leak. And the fact that a radiator starts leaking 2 years after it was installed can be many factors. I seen the isolator mounts that are in some CUCV's. The radiators are loose and floppy and the radiator supports and cab mounts are rusted off and that poor radiator is taking all the vibration and beating. Good Luck. Check the entire cab for firm cab mounts and the radiator support for rusty mounts and the support itself. I mean 30+ years. Bound to have issues. Most of the bolts I remove on radiator core supports are rotted and the rubber mounts are doing little or nothing.
 
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TechnoWeenie

TechnoWeenie

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Put my M1031 to use...

Towed a NG HMMWV off the highway, tried not to laugh at them when they said their fuel gauge read full......

Dumped a couple gallons in.... disconnected the fuel shutoff solenoid, popped the bleeder valve.... hooked up the slave cable because their batt died.... bled the system.. and got them back on the road....

Their wrecker was already towing an LMTV and wouldn't be able to get back for 4+ hours.... So, they were happy, if not a little confused...as to why some strange white guy had an army truck... Bahahahhahah


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I taught them how to use a slave cable and how to bleed their fuel system.... They learned not to trust fuel gauges on .mil vehicles... Hahahaha
 
rustystud

rustystud

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TechnoWeenie said:
Put my M1031 to use...

Towed a NG HMMWV off the highway, tried not to laugh at them when they said their fuel gauge read full......

Dumped a couple gallons in.... disconnected the fuel shutoff solenoid, popped the bleeder valve.... hooked up the slave cable because their batt died.... bled the system.. and got them back on the road....

Their wrecker was already towing an LMTV and wouldn't be able to get back for 4+ hours.... So, they were happy, if not a little confused...as to why some strange white guy had an army truck... Bahahahhahah


View attachment 753295


I taught them how to use a slave cable and how to bleed their fuel system.... They learned not to trust fuel gauges on .mil vehicles... Hahahaha
Click to expand...
Good job !
 
S

shotty

Active member
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Location
Northern VA :(
Two of four seat mounting bolts are broken off... One was like that when I got the truck, I did the second one removing the seat. Both are on the drivers side. Got an easy out in one, and it is turning, but its so tight im afraid of the easy out breaking. Tomorrow is gonna be interesting...
 
Keith_J

Keith_J

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Location
Schertz TX
shotty said:
Two of four seat mounting bolts are broken off... One was like that when I got the truck, I did the second one removing the seat. Both are on the drivers side. Got an easy out in one, and it is turning, but its so tight im afraid of the easy out breaking. Tomorrow is gonna be interesting...
Click to expand...
Heat is your friend. I have not had a stuck broken bolt beat my TIG welding method. Heat causes the bolt to expand, the stress squeezes the bolt smaller. When it all cools, there is some space to twist. If you don't have the concentrated heat of an arc, drill it out and stab a red hot copper rod into the hole.
 
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