What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[marchplumber]

Any chance you could post the part numbers? I ordered the same from them last year and got the wrong stuff. Mismatched from each other and the truck. I think about half of the pieces might have been right. They were nasty about the return, too, as if it were my fault, so I won't be buying from them again, but the part numbers should allow anybody who wants to to find them online. I'm sure plenty of people would be glad to have those numbers.

Part numbers are as follows.... Most were Walker brand.
Mufflers..............18247
R tail pipe...........43941
L tail pipe...........44826
R short bend.......41334
L short bend.......42700
R exhaust..........45869
L exhaust..........45870
2.25 clamps and 2.5 clamps 35337 and35413
exhaust gaskets..F7269

All were ordered using the info for a 1985 K5 Blazer with the 6.2 diesel engine.

Hope that this helps the next troop who wants to get everything from exhaust manifold back. (Bailing wire intentionally left out! LOL)

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Marchplumber:

Did you really have to make some custom hangers out of wire?

Dad has a 83 (soon to be mine) Chevy 2500 with a 350 Gasser. He said he made his own exhaust hangers from bailing wire from the motor to almost to end except for the very end hangers, because 2 sets of hangers broke off. The motor would rock so hard it would break the hangers off the exhaust pipes.
I know not MV but I still thought I would share this.

Thanks

 

[RobM36A2]

The previous owner of my M1028 put a fun exhaust on mine.

From the engine bay till the bed, all stock, then flexible pipe, ending in the stock exhaust system for a Mercury Grand Marquis.
When it rots, I want a stock exhaust with balance pipe and cut-outs under the green beast

What is best for diesels? No back-pressure, aka open pipes or little back-pressure aka mufflers?

 

[marchplumber]

Marchplumber:

Did you really have to make some custom hangers out of wire?

Dad has a 83 (soon to be mine) Chevy 2500 with a 350 Gasser. He said he made his own exhaust hangers from bailing wire from the motor to almost to end except for the very end hangers, because 2 sets of hangers broke off. The motor would rock so hard it would break the hangers off the exhaust pipes.
I know not MV but I still thought I would share this.

Thanks

No, I did not make any hangers out of wire. I made mine from steel flat stock. Only had to make one. The rest transferred over from prior exhaust system. You could make them from bailing wire, I am sure that many have! LOL If motor moves that much, might be something else wrong too. Bad motor mount?

I sure do like the results though.... hear the clack of the 6.2 again.....LOL

 

[CUCVLOVER]

When I got my cucv it had the factory exhaust (mostly). I put 2.5 in true duals straight pipes.
The truck runs better, it has more pep, its louder, and it can breath.
So I think straight pipes help the 6.2.

Marchplumer:
I think my dad said something about it needing mounts, not sure been a while since he told me.

A 6.2 does need to be loud.

Can you please post a video of yours?
Thanks

 

[chief1983]

The way I understand it, straight pipes only help a naturally aspirated diesel since a turbo has so much back pressure the muffler is insignificant.

 

[SRB1976]

Changed the oil and mounted an ammo can to the fenderwell for storage

 

[german m1008]

Today i have purchased a GEM workertop. It's a lot of work to do, but it works for the moment.

 

[Another Ahab]

Today i have purchased a GEM workertop. It's a lot of work to do, but it works for the moment. View attachment 574405View attachment 574406

That's a good-looking top. It looks good on your truck.

 

[german m1008]

Sooner or later i will paint it carc383 green. Then, i hope, it looks perhaps a bit better.

 

[Another Ahab]

Sooner or later i will paint it carc383 green. Then, i hope, it looks perhaps a bit better.

It actually looks real good now, as it is, m1008.

And painting it, if you got the time, will be a bonus. If you do paint it up, please give us a photo here so we can admire your work.

 

[german m1008]

Thank you Another Ahab, when the time comes, I'll post it here first

 

[Recovry4x4]

Those utility covers are so useful. I had a steel one on one of my trucks. It's currently on an M101A3 as the truck now has an SECM body.

 

[Assel]

Useful or not, I like my CUCV topless...but since its a single-cab M1009 the hardtop is a real job to get on & off... I dont do that often..so most of the time I carry it with me

Oh and I did some things today aswell: Repaired a broken brake Line, threw in a new master cylinder, completely changed the brake fluid, new Proportioning Valve, painted the aircleaner cover and other little things...

but my brake Pedal still feels soft, brake appears to grip after 5cm of pedal way.... I bench bleed the master cylinder twice & purged the whole system 3 times.... I hope it is the new brake pads on some old new brake rotors ( they have a bit rust on them, were storaged for years before I bought them & put to use.... should be braked away withing few miles, but I didnt drive her around yet)

 

[Mainsail]

I finally got around to finishing my lightbar. The six HIDs across the front looked good, but the two halogen bulbs in the corner reflectors looked yellow in comparison. I installed the H3 HID conversion and got it wired to the SmartSiren head in the center console. The slider switch in the lower left has three positions- position one is just two forward firing lights, two is all the forward lights, and three turns on the angled reflectors and the alley lights. The last picture shows how the halogen light looks with the others.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

I finally got around to finishing my lightbar. The six HIDs across the front looked good, but the two halogen bulbs in the corner reflectors looked yellow in comparison. I installed the H3 HID conversion and got it wired to the SmartSiren head in the center console. The slider switch in the lower left has three positions- position one is just two forward firing lights, two is all the forward lights, and three turns on the angled reflectors and the alley lights. The last picture shows how the halogen light looks with the others.

Sweet lights
Would be so kind as to post a few picks up of them In The dark?
Thanks

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I did the glow plugs today. I didn't know how long mine had been in there, and wanted to get ahead of the cold weather with some new, known good plugs.

None were swollen - they looked pretty new, actually. Still glad I replaced them, because now I know.

I used the AC60Gs and put new connectors on the wires. A small inspection mirror and a headlamp were very helpful.

 

[Mainsail]

Sweet lights Would be so kind as to post a few picks up of them In The dark? Thanks

I hope 'dusk' is OK. I go to bed before it's really dark out.

 

[tim292stro]

But then you get up before it's light out right? Some on-road shots from the cab?

 

[btmurph]

My front brakes were dragging so I ended up replacing the master cylinder, one rotor, the front brake soft lines, and the entire caliper assemblies on both sides. Also had to have the other rotor turned but it was salvageable. When removing the brake fluid from the master I found some lovely looking rusty goop in the bottom. Used my mity vac to bleed in new DOT 5 after blowing out the hard lines with brake cleaner.

Right after that my e-brake decided to seize on the driver's side in a parking lot. Luckily a hammer and pliers and vice grips allowed me to remove the crossbar to release shoes. The cable on that side ended up being the culprit so I replaced that along with all the inner drum components on both sides (the driver's side shoes were toast so I figured what the **** ). Now the brakes work great, no more shuddering when heavy braking

All parts were acquired from Napa, including the NEW master cylinder for only $42.