What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[cucvrus]

Remove the clamps and cut the heater hoses from the stems under the hood. the hoses need to be repplaced and this the perfect time to do so. Pull the heater box into the cab and remove the blue tabbed cable from the heater box. The box is now ready to be removed from the cab. This is the OEM heater core. Not bad for lasting 30 years. This is the original Harrison heater core that came from the factory.

 

[cucvrus]

Time to wash the heater box before you install the new replacement heater core. And clean all the rodent dirt, leaves and pine needles out of the duct work. Reinstall the new heater core in the heater box and hook up everything in reverse. Top off the coolant and start the truck and bring up to operating temperature and check to see if the heater is working. Now is the time to remove the insulation under the dash if you so desire. I do on mine but this truck was not mine so I left it in place. Most of the insulation is just a mess. This one was wet with coolant. I think it has been seeping for a while. I ran out of day light and hung it up for the day. I will post the finishing process tomorrow. Thank you for looking.

 

[rsh4364]

Gave my 70 yr old Dad a ride into town in my 86 1009, to pay some bills on the way home he says when does this thing hit 3rd gear? I told him we were in third gear in town.He was impressed on how it pulled from 30mph-60mph in third,and told me I should get an OD trans.Thanks Dad.This 1009 was regeared to 4.56 gears in the original 10 bolts. ?? I also got my tanks style block heater installed and replaced a turn signal bulb,but thought Dads comments more entertaining.

 

[48cj2a]

View attachment 595365 View attachment 595366 View attachment 595367 This is the original Harrison heater core that came from the factory.

Note the nice tight fit in the heater box and pay close attention to your replacement. Many of the aftermarket replacement cores are known to not fit snug like this. The cooler air will leak past the them and highly degrade the heating output. You may need to add extra foam sealing material or dumb dump to make sure you get a nice tight fit and seal in the heater box.

 

[cucvrus]

When I drive my CUCV in winter I wear clothing like I am going to be outside. My kids had a rear heater in the M1009 when they were growing up. I removed all the insulation from the firewall and the floors are bare in all my vehicles. Line X only. They are not saunas in the winter. They make it comfortable at best. As long as the windows get clear I am happy. I just drove my Mule 1,200 miles in 3 days and it was cold the first day. The second day I dressed for it and the third day I was out of the cold back up in the 60's again. I am making an arctic front from parts for both my M1009's that I drive. But I still like my new truck best. Sauna or ice box at your finger tips.This was last years winter front I made from spare parts. It was the best one to date. I left it attached to the brush guard and hung it in my barn. I like it that much I want to look at it for years to come. The paint was that nice on the bumpers and brush guard I did not want to sand and repaint over it. i will use them on an up coming project I am sure. I am going to be wiring my Crown of Thorns with Christmas lights again this year. I missed last year because of medical reasons.

 

[SgtHaas]

When I drive my CUCV in winter I wear clothing like I am going to be outside. My kids had a rear heater in the M1009 when they were growing up. I removed all the insulation from the firewall and the floors are bare in all my vehicles. Line X only. They are not saunas in the winter. They make it comfortable at best. As long as the windows get clear I am happy. I just drove my Mule 1,200 miles in 3 days and it was cold the first day. The second day I dressed for it and the third day I was out of the cold back up in the 60's again. I am making an arctic front from parts for both my M1009's that I drive. But I still like my new truck best. Sauna or ice box at your finger tips.View attachment 595381This was last years winter front I made from spare parts. It was the best one to date. I left it attached to the brush guard and hung it in my barn. I like it that much I want to look at it for years to come. The paint was that nice on the bumpers and brush guard I did not want to sand and repaint over it. i will use them on an up coming project I am sure. I am going to be wiring my Crown of Thorns with Christmas lights again this year. I missed last year because of medical reasons.

What is the black box on the front brush guard? I'm not familiar with it. Thank you.

 

[cucvrus]

Kevlar shield to protect that priceless 6.2 Detroit diesel engine from gun fire. The drivers are replaceable the engines priceless. Especially if they start in the winter weather. Last year was a very cold winter here.I spent a lot of time hooking up slave cables. It works well to have 2 CUCV's. get them started one at a time while they were tied together. Huge difference in cranking amps.

 

[the skull]

Drove my M1008 to work today. I have driven this truck at least once a week
for the last 8 months, just not if there is salt on the roads. Backed it into
a spot in the shop and the brake pedal went to the floor, the line on the passenger
side of the frame let loose. 2 weeks ago I had a ton of scrap on the trailer,
(M101A3), no indication of any impending doom. Things could have been worse,
it might have let go @ 65 mph when the lady turned left in front of me last week
without a turn signal.

 

[cucvrus]

Easy fix on the brake line. Easy for me I guess. But a 6 ft piece of 1/4" fits with a little bending and tweaking. No need to get out the double flaring kit on that one. It probably blew out at one of the frame clamps. Put some Nickel never seize everywhere the clamp contacts the tube. It will last another 30 years. Well maybe. But I do think so. You take better care of it then the previous owner.

 

[thz71]

Drove my M1008 to work today. I have driven this truck at least once a week
for the last 8 months, just not if there is salt on the roads. Backed it into
a spot in the shop and the brake pedal went to the floor, the line on the passenger
side of the frame let loose. 2 weeks ago I had a ton of scrap on the trailer,
(M101A3), no indication of any impending doom. Things could have been worse,
it might have let go @ 65 mph when the lady turned left in front of me last week
without a turn signal.

Wow that's hard to read lol

 

[gottaluvit]

I got my glow plug situation fixed. Kept it all stock and used Delco 60Gs and crimped new 1/4" blade terminals on the GP wires. Three were stuck and needed broken off and fished out of the injector hole. Used a vacuum with a small tip to suck out any little pieces I may have not seen. So it was 15 degrees this morning and it started right up. It did have to crank for about eight seconds. Then it stalled after about two minutes of idle but it restarted fine, other than the GP relay clicked on and off a couple of times pulling hard on the alternators making the belts squeal. I think it's time for new belts.

 

[cucvrus]

Today after work I worked on getting the Jersey Indian M1028 all put back together and the plow harness all secured and tied down for a neat job. The owner wants to get this truck back before the snow blows. And it seems like that is just around the corner.

 

[cucvrus]

Today I did some controversial repairs on the Jersey Indian. I dug out my 1/2" rubber hose/ fuel line that I must have fixed a hundred CUC/V door strikers with and made up 2 for the Jersey Indian M1028.I put them on and the doors closed nice and tight and had the right sound when they closed. Not that junk truck sound. I also used another item that has been thrown to the wayside and replaced by useless aerosol spray lubes. This is a manually operated lubrication can. This is what you should be using to lubricate door hinges and other moving parts. Using sprays like WD 40 and any other spray lubes is like spraying Pam cooking spray on it. It is good till it dries and then does nothing. Tried and true motor oil in a squirt can is the key to long lasting door bushings and tailgates. Anything that moves needs a little squirt of oil.

 

[cucvrus]

I am having a few strokes of bad luck. Today I went out and started the Mule and my eyes burned from the smell of hot diesel fuel on my way to work. I turned around and headed back home. I only drive a 1/2 mile to work so no big deal. Tonight when i finished working on the Jersey Indian I was on my way to put a starter on a dresser bulldozer and the Mule failed to fire. I checked out under the hood and it seemed like no fuel. I sprayed the magic spray and started it. It has the right rear nozzle cap leaking and dripping fuel on the hot manifold. That is why my eyes burnt. well I went over and checked out the starter job. That will be over the weekend. Not tonight. Anyway that is odd that it dropped the fuel on the return side but I guess any air will let it drop fuel. I drove my new truck to work today. But this evening I was to dirty to drive it after dark. All worked out. I drove there and back in the Mule and it leaked fuel the whole way. Them rubber caps are a dumb idea. I have a bag of new ones. I will get Son to put a new cap and clamp on. The new ones are easy. They just push right on. getting the old one off is the issue at this time. It can be done. Last week it was the other M1009 with the alternators. God I love my new trucks. I would be lost with out them. But I still like my CUCV's. just get tired of working on them at times. Love Hate thing.

 

[the skull]

Easy fix on the brake line. Easy for me I guess. But a 6 ft piece of 1/4" fits with a little bending and tweaking. No need to get out the double flaring kit on that one. It probably blew out at one of the frame clamps. Put some Nickel never seize everywhere the clamp contacts the tube. It will last another 30 years. Well maybe. But I do think so. You take better care of it then the previous owner.

THANKS for the tip on the line, I didn't think the 3/16 was the right size since I have probably about 40 feet of that in my toolbox at work. I'll grab a 6 footer on the way to the shop.

 

[donalloy1]

Finally got ALL my Dash Lights working. Now I can see my Heater controls at night. Didn't even know there was a light behind that! Good project! I would classify it as difficulty level out five of ten! just my .02

 

[gottaluvit]

Finally got ALL my Dash Lights working. Now I can see my Heater controls at night. Didn't even know there was a light behind that! Good project! I would classify it as difficulty level out five of ten! just my .02

I thought I had a light in my ashtray the other night. Had me thinking the general was on it putting that there. Turned out my mini flashlight was on.

 

[mike634]

Did front brake lines, calipers, pads, front bearings and Dog Head relay mod. Half way ready for winter.

 

[kkcshipp]

Replaced both batteries with 2 x new Duralast 12V. Cost me some $ but those old rascals were OLD, OLD, OLD and were DEAD, DEAD, DEAD. BTW, the guy at AUTOZONE when I brought them in looked up (non-prior military of course) and said, "I don't think we have those type of batteries." Then the older fella that always sees me come in said, "what went wrong with the CUCV today?" Before I could answer he saw those 50lb squares of lead and said let me show you what I have and yelled for his Safety NCO to come with the cart to remove them from the floor. Being so close to Ft Knox is somewhat of a blessing.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Today I did some controversial repairs on the Jersey Indian. I dug out my 1/2" rubber hose/ fuel line that I must have fixed a hundred CUC/V door strikers with and made up 2 for the Jersey Indian M1028.View attachment 595511View attachment 595510View attachment 595512View attachment 595513View attachment 595514I put them on and the doors closed nice and tight and had the right sound when they closed. Not that junk truck sound. I also used another item that has been thrown to the wayside and replaced by useless aerosol spray lubes. View attachment 595515This is a manually operated lubrication can. This is what you should be using to lubricate door hinges and other moving parts. Using sprays like WD 40 and any other spray lubes is like spraying Pam cooking spray on it. It is good till it dries and then does nothing. Tried and true motor oil in a squirt can is the key to long lasting door bushings and tailgates. Anything that moves needs a little squirt of oil. View attachment 595516View attachment 595517

Is that 1/2 inside diameter?
Thanks for the tip.

Btw
My dad has that same cell phone. Everytime we have to go to the cell store they try to get him to upgrade to a smart phone. He just doesn't do it, but he really doesn't need a smart phone. He would definitely break it, he tries mine every once in a while and gets mad at it real fast.
He says the bag phone should come back.