SgtHaas
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Looks Great! How did you do that to the seats
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2
- Thread starter Warthog
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Cleaned them with this http://www.eastwood.com/vinyl-prep-aerosol-14-09-net.html
And then painted them with this http://www.eastwood.com/burgundy-interior-paint-aerosol-12-oz-net.html
And then painted them with this http://www.eastwood.com/burgundy-interior-paint-aerosol-12-oz-net.html
NovacaineFix
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I have come to the realization that my M1009 is a dog or was a dog in a past life.
Don't get me wrong, it is a great truck, reliable and durable, but it likes to mark it's territory by leaking fluids everywhere.
I know it is a 30+ year old truck, and I can say firsthand that not too many things were changed out on mine, still has signs of stock items on it to this day.
Since I have had the truck for almost 2 years now, the only fluids that haven't leaked out are the power steering and gear lube from the axles, everything else has leaked or spewed at one time or another. I still have a slight oil leak from my oil cooler lines, but they are going to be replaced very soon.
Well, last weekend I had to replace all 8 glow-plugs, 5 were bad. I had noticed that in the chilliness in the morning, it was getting harder to start and would act like one or both batteries were failing.
Well the ones I pulled out were either factory or close to it, I'm guess, still had all of the thin terminal ends, unless that was a recent change in making the ends wider.
I was doing good, no fluids but the oil are leaking.
Okay, no forward to this week.
I noticed a small puddle under my the front of my passenger door, it was coolant. Funny, I haven't smelt any coolant leaking from the amount I saw on the ground. Did some looking around, yep, heater core is leaking, and leaking pretty good.
.
I'm not that upset, like I said, the truck is 30 years old, but I had just changed out the radiator and hoses out back in early November.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ately-Part-2&p=1788999&viewfull=1#post1788999
I knew at that point I should have changed out the heater core, but I just didn't have the $$ to do so at that time.
The heater core went in like a breeze, I think it took me all of 30 minutes to put it in.
The water pump, well that's another story.
Well I listened to my inner voice this time. Since I had to drain the new coolant anyway, I figured let me change out the water pump at the same time, so this way I don't have to drain the coolant for a 3rd time for another repair.
I have changed out probably 100's of water pumps during my time, but this one was a Royal PITA.
Mexican blanket courtesy of the Mexican drug cartel, seriously.
Well got it all cleaned up and put back together. Glad I decided to do this, when I had everything open, 1 of the bolts that are connected to the IP gear was extremely loose.
I had replaced the intake gasket a few months back because I had a leaky injector line so I got lucky and already had the water passage gaskets on hand, not that they are pricy.
All back together and all was fine, belts are nice and tight and no leaks, oil or water, well except for the cooler lines, but we all know that.
The only thing that took me by surprise was when I started the truck, my resistor blocks started smoking, thought I had a shorted wire or something.
Turned the truck off and double checked everything, nothing was pinched, touching or shorted. Started it up again, resistors started smoking again but went away once I revved up the engine...???
Hasn't done it since. I'm sure that will be my next repair, whatever that it.
Well now that everything, well mostly everything is in fine working order, I'm happy, well as much as I can be.
I even had a cheerleader to keep me pepped up, even when that black cloud of profanity started drifting over me.
Don't get me wrong, it is a great truck, reliable and durable, but it likes to mark it's territory by leaking fluids everywhere.
I know it is a 30+ year old truck, and I can say firsthand that not too many things were changed out on mine, still has signs of stock items on it to this day.
Since I have had the truck for almost 2 years now, the only fluids that haven't leaked out are the power steering and gear lube from the axles, everything else has leaked or spewed at one time or another. I still have a slight oil leak from my oil cooler lines, but they are going to be replaced very soon.
Well, last weekend I had to replace all 8 glow-plugs, 5 were bad. I had noticed that in the chilliness in the morning, it was getting harder to start and would act like one or both batteries were failing.
Well the ones I pulled out were either factory or close to it, I'm guess, still had all of the thin terminal ends, unless that was a recent change in making the ends wider.
I was doing good, no fluids but the oil are leaking.
Okay, no forward to this week.
I noticed a small puddle under my the front of my passenger door, it was coolant. Funny, I haven't smelt any coolant leaking from the amount I saw on the ground. Did some looking around, yep, heater core is leaking, and leaking pretty good.
.I'm not that upset, like I said, the truck is 30 years old, but I had just changed out the radiator and hoses out back in early November.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ately-Part-2&p=1788999&viewfull=1#post1788999
I knew at that point I should have changed out the heater core, but I just didn't have the $$ to do so at that time.
The heater core went in like a breeze, I think it took me all of 30 minutes to put it in.
The water pump, well that's another story.
Well I listened to my inner voice this time. Since I had to drain the new coolant anyway, I figured let me change out the water pump at the same time, so this way I don't have to drain the coolant for a 3rd time for another repair.
I have changed out probably 100's of water pumps during my time, but this one was a Royal PITA.
Mexican blanket courtesy of the Mexican drug cartel, seriously.
Well got it all cleaned up and put back together. Glad I decided to do this, when I had everything open, 1 of the bolts that are connected to the IP gear was extremely loose.
I had replaced the intake gasket a few months back because I had a leaky injector line so I got lucky and already had the water passage gaskets on hand, not that they are pricy.
All back together and all was fine, belts are nice and tight and no leaks, oil or water, well except for the cooler lines, but we all know that.
The only thing that took me by surprise was when I started the truck, my resistor blocks started smoking, thought I had a shorted wire or something.
Turned the truck off and double checked everything, nothing was pinched, touching or shorted. Started it up again, resistors started smoking again but went away once I revved up the engine...???
Hasn't done it since. I'm sure that will be my next repair, whatever that it.
Well now that everything, well mostly everything is in fine working order, I'm happy, well as much as I can be.
I even had a cheerleader to keep me pepped up, even when that black cloud of profanity started drifting over me.
cpf240
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My guess would be that with over half the glow plugs being bad, the resistor wasn't really working hard before. With all new plugs, the resistor probably got warm, and burned off any dust or debris that were on it.
As for the spade terminal size difference, the stock Wellmans had the smaller terminal. Pretty much all the other glow plugs people use today, other than the Wellmans, have the larger terminal on them.
tim292stro
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Two words: "deferred maintenance".
Indeed, 30 years is a "classic" truck. These trucks have often either been sitting, or run often there are parts inside some of these truck that have not seen the light of day since manufacture - even service items like seals, hoses, and heat exchangers. Some nuts on bolts have not had wrenches on them in nearly as long as the trucks have been built, most of the wires have only moved as much as drivetrain vibration has moved them causing the insulators to become brittle.
They need lots of love. Looks like you're loving your truck the right way.![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
I'm doing the same thing to mine in a week as I have developed a leak in my radiator core - so I'm doing all of the cooing system stuff in one $hot. I agree on the cost of it all at once - it hurts, but I really need this truck to be reliable right now.
Indeed, 30 years is a "classic" truck. These trucks have often either been sitting, or run often there are parts inside some of these truck that have not seen the light of day since manufacture - even service items like seals, hoses, and heat exchangers. Some nuts on bolts have not had wrenches on them in nearly as long as the trucks have been built, most of the wires have only moved as much as drivetrain vibration has moved them causing the insulators to become brittle.
They need lots of love. Looks like you're loving your truck the right way.
I'm doing the same thing to mine in a week as I have developed a leak in my radiator core - so I'm doing all of the cooing system stuff in one $hot. I agree on the cost of it all at once - it hurts, but I really need this truck to be reliable right now.
RobM36A2
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Well, last saturday, I had some issues with the M1028.
It was still dark out and I wanted to take it to some friends where I had to work for a day.
Ignition on, waiting for the WAIT light going out, so far, no problems.
Then turning the key to "START", 1 revolution, and nothing but rattling relays.
So I let go of the key, there is another rattling sound, from the relay on de firewall. Ign. off and it stopped.
Batteries are good and fully charged, so I was a bit confused.
Tried to start once more, but nothing happened, only some rattling of that same relay..
It was still dark out, so I took my daily driver and kept on thinking what could be wrong.. Starting relay or so?
The sunday I decided to look into this weird problem.
Opened the hood, and turned on the ignition. There was almost no power on de dash (all lights were very dim).
But after the glow cycle I tried to start, still only the firewall relay rattling. I tapped it gently, but no change.
When I went back to turn off the ignition, from the corner of my eye I saw a little smoke coming from the front battery.
Turned off ignition, and investigated. Seemed like a lot of corrosion on the + side.
So grabbed my tools, got the clamp of, cleaned the whole thing and the + pole. Sprayed a little WD40 on and fastened all.
Same process for the back battery +pole. The negative poles were nice and clean so they only got a whiff of WD40.
When i finished doing the cleaning and fastening, I thought, can it be this simple? So tried again to start.
Full power in the dash and after the glow cycle turned to "START".
The 6.2 V8 diesel roared to life as if nothing had happened.
Yes, Sometimes it can be that simple.
It was still dark out and I wanted to take it to some friends where I had to work for a day.
Ignition on, waiting for the WAIT light going out, so far, no problems.
Then turning the key to "START", 1 revolution, and nothing but rattling relays.
So I let go of the key, there is another rattling sound, from the relay on de firewall. Ign. off and it stopped.
Batteries are good and fully charged, so I was a bit confused.
Tried to start once more, but nothing happened, only some rattling of that same relay..
It was still dark out, so I took my daily driver and kept on thinking what could be wrong.. Starting relay or so?
The sunday I decided to look into this weird problem.
Opened the hood, and turned on the ignition. There was almost no power on de dash (all lights were very dim).
But after the glow cycle I tried to start, still only the firewall relay rattling. I tapped it gently, but no change.
When I went back to turn off the ignition, from the corner of my eye I saw a little smoke coming from the front battery.
Turned off ignition, and investigated. Seemed like a lot of corrosion on the + side.
So grabbed my tools, got the clamp of, cleaned the whole thing and the + pole. Sprayed a little WD40 on and fastened all.
Same process for the back battery +pole. The negative poles were nice and clean so they only got a whiff of WD40.
When i finished doing the cleaning and fastening, I thought, can it be this simple? So tried again to start.
Full power in the dash and after the glow cycle turned to "START".
The 6.2 V8 diesel roared to life as if nothing had happened.
Yes, Sometimes it can be that simple.
cucvrus
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As for the spade terminal size difference, the stock Wellmans had the smaller terminal. Pretty much all the other glow plugs people use today, other than the Wellmans, have the larger terminal on them.
I just want to clear this up so no one is confused. The stock glow plugs are 13G AC Delco. NOT Wellmans. I never had any luck with Wellmans and was given hundreds of them for free over the years. I tried them several times and had epic fails. I stick with the tried and true AC Delco 13 G and the stock set up. The have not failed me in 20+ years on the same trucks. 30+ from the build date. So GM done something right. I see no point in changing the design now. I also agree that the smoking resistors is a normal situation as long as they are getting hot they are doing the job they were intended to do. Good Luck and it looks like you do real good work NovacaineFix. No hacking and cutting is a good policy. Keep it reliable and keep it stock. No matter what others say. It worked for 30 + years that way. Why change it now? Peace.
I just want to clear this up so no one is confused. The stock glow plugs are 13G AC Delco. NOT Wellmans. I never had any luck with Wellmans and was given hundreds of them for free over the years. I tried them several times and had epic fails. I stick with the tried and true AC Delco 13 G and the stock set up. The have not failed me in 20+ years on the same trucks. 30+ from the build date. So GM done something right. I see no point in changing the design now. I also agree that the smoking resistors is a normal situation as long as they are getting hot they are doing the job they were intended to do. Good Luck and it looks like you do real good work NovacaineFix. No hacking and cutting is a good policy. Keep it reliable and keep it stock. No matter what others say. It worked for 30 + years that way. Why change it now? Peace.
NovacaineFix
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Just wanted to say your are correct sir. The gp's I pulled out were indeed AC Delco 13G's with the small terminal ends. Here is what they looked like, after pulling them out, I cleaned the soot off of them.
They didn't look bad, but looks are deceiving.
Put 12v across them using a battery charger and no go, no heat. The battery charger I used is simple, I just clamped the negative to the brass portion of theGP and the positive to the terminal end and watched to see if they would heat up. 5 out of 8 of them did not.
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I added a NOS aircraft light to my clipboard to cast some light on the paper.
It's cobbled together with a Staples cheapo clipboard, a RAM mount to the dash bracket, and now the aircraft light.
It's wired through the wiper circuit so it comes on with the key. Right now the wiper circuit is providing power to the light as well as the ignition sense line to the smartsiren box. I probably need to add a relay so I don't overtax that circuit.
It's cobbled together with a Staples cheapo clipboard, a RAM mount to the dash bracket, and now the aircraft light.
It's wired through the wiper circuit so it comes on with the key. Right now the wiper circuit is providing power to the light as well as the ignition sense line to the smartsiren box. I probably need to add a relay so I don't overtax that circuit.
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cucvrus
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I pulled one M1009 out of storage and started it up and now I want to put it back in storage before it gets wet or scratched.
I could not get the system to load any outside pictures of the M1009. Oh well you seen one you seen them all. This is a 2012 summer build. LineXed on the inside and all original paint scheme in 3 color woodland. Original GM dash pad and seats. Not sure why outside pictures got kicked. I will post them on facebook. Instant post there. It was 22 degrees today and I needed to get in behind this vehicle to put lawn care things away behind it so I chanced starting it and it popped right off after the glow light went out. I drove it around the block and recovered it and put it away for the winter. I have been driving my new truck. Easier on the old iron not to run in this weather and it saves it from salt and makes fair weather driving more enjoyable so I have a nice CUCV to drive. That still makes me think about the antique tags on terminus M1009. No inspection 1 time tag fee. But it needs a nice paint job to represent its breed. Not a turd job like it has now. Spring times coming.
I could not get the system to load any outside pictures of the M1009. Oh well you seen one you seen them all. This is a 2012 summer build. LineXed on the inside and all original paint scheme in 3 color woodland. Original GM dash pad and seats. Not sure why outside pictures got kicked. I will post them on facebook. Instant post there. It was 22 degrees today and I needed to get in behind this vehicle to put lawn care things away behind it so I chanced starting it and it popped right off after the glow light went out. I drove it around the block and recovered it and put it away for the winter. I have been driving my new truck. Easier on the old iron not to run in this weather and it saves it from salt and makes fair weather driving more enjoyable so I have a nice CUCV to drive. That still makes me think about the antique tags on terminus M1009. No inspection 1 time tag fee. But it needs a nice paint job to represent its breed. Not a turd job like it has now. Spring times coming.
NovacaineFix
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Looks Nice!
I can store that for you over at my place....as long as you didn't mind me using it from time to time
I can store that for you over at my place....as long as you didn't mind me using it from time to time
cucvrus
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I abandoned all 3 of my M1009's on the open field lot. It was 12 degrees this AM. I thought leave sleeping CUCV's lay. No need to cause any issues and disturb the resting dinosaurs. Besides I have other vehicles to drive that don't mind the cold. I remember the days when CUCV's were my only mode of transport. Good memories. But just that memories. Now at work the CUCV M1008 is parked in a heated garage. Never any issues with that one starting. I run that everyday. So today I neglected to drive any of my POV CUCV's. Good Luck if you are in the cold. Stay warm.
gottaluvit
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I had to see how mine would fare with 2°F. She fired right up with a total crank time of about five seconds. I used to shut the key off on a failed fire upon cranking an engine and then back on to try again. Found out with this glow plug diesel to just leave it on if it dont fire on the first two to three second attempt. Then the second attempt is always a fired up Chevy!
thz71
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Got a new u bolt and got that buttoned up
crossover installed
passenger side brake line on I bent the drivers side bracket around to work. Broke the hard line off on the passenger side. So yet more brake work.
body lift on
to do list getting shorter
tim292stro
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Trick an old 2-stroke mechanic taught me, crank for a bit, and if it doesn't go, let it sit. The heat for compression on the cylinders will warm the cylinder's interior, and the next time you crank it's a lot easier - kind of like a super glow plug. This knowledge always made starting my 2-stroke DD 6V92 powered bus a lot easier when staring down freezing or below temperatures.
Another Ahab
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You're right, anything we do is only a delaying action:
- Rust will always win in the long run; it's all just a matter of time...no use crying, but you know; shoot.
shotty
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Today I went to leave from work and found about a cup of oil on the ground under the front of the truck. Odd, since there wasn't anything under the truck when I left the house this morning. Turns out I have a pretty hefty leak from an oil cooler line, so today I added about a quart of oil and will probably disconnect the lines and seek repair, or cut the rubber off and clamp on some new hoses.
cucvrus
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Excellent choice. Just cut them back to the barbs and get some oil line and clamp it on. Beats the price of replacements. And I have been hearing a lot of the replacements don't fit anyway. I never had any issues with the fit but times may have changed. If it is leaking and letting puddles it is past time for replacement. Catastrophic failure is imminent and without warning. Good Luck and stay warm.
shotty
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I pulled the lines, it wasn't nearly as bad as I had thought it would be from reading all the threads about them. Just rolled under on a creeper and popped em off with a crescent wrench. The metal bits look to be in good shape (like, haven't been touched since they were installed 30 years ago good) so I'm taking them to a hydraulic shop tomorrow to see about having new rubber hose installed. I'm going to ask about getting some kind of threaded fitting put on the other end as well so that changing the rubber later wont be such a hassle, but if it's going to cost a decent amount I'll just try again in 30 years when I need to replace them again.
CUCVLOVER
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I finished pulling off my injection pump today to have it rebuilt. I had to pull the intake, unhook all lines and wiring, remove the oil fill and remove the three bolts from inside there.
So it will be sent off this week so maybe I can get it back and reinstalled next weekend
So it will be sent off this week so maybe I can get it back and reinstalled next weekend