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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

usabamaman

Member
71
23
8
Location
Anywhere, Alabama
Concerning the voltage of the radiator. How could the radiator not be grounded to the block since it is continually connected to the block by water which would ground it???? There is also the steel lines from the transmission to the radiator also making a ground. I am planning to put a magnesium ribbon in the radiator hose with a filter following it to serve as a anode.
 

RobM36A2

Member
302
9
18
Location
The Netherlands
Fixed the issue with my passenger window today.

Removed the plastic protection and used some pliers to bend the rods inside.
Then i took the right 2 bolt of the mechanism out, put a washer in between and put them back on.

The window now rolls freely up and down with no effort at all. Me = happy :cool:
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
Voltage = current x resistance. As the coolant heats up, the resistance increases. That is why you see the voltage creep up in the coolant.
No, just the opposite.

See here:

The electrical conductivity of the water depends on the water temperature: the higher the temperature, the higher the electrical conductivity would be. The electrical conductivity of water increases by 2-3% for an increase of 1 degree Celsius of water temperature. Many EC meters nowadays automatically standardize the readings to 25[SUP]o[/SUP]C.

And here: (See Figure 2.)


And here:

When water temperature increases, so will conductivity [SUP]3[/SUP]. For every 1°C increase, conductivity values can increase 2-4% [SUP]3[/SUP]. Temperature affects conductivity by increasing ionic mobility as well as the solubility of many salts and minerals [SUP]30[/SUP].

Or a bunch of here.





At this point, I'm thinking the increased voltage is probably due to increased chemical activity. We see this in car batteries - a really cold battery has much less power than a warm one.
 

onemanarmy

Member
100
0
16
Location
Raleigh, NC
Either way, the voltage in increasing, and voltage can be calculated, so something is changing.

guess the correct formula is V=I x (1/R)

I work with metals and such, not so much in the water biz.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
Yes, something is changing. The question is, "What?". Since we know that the voltage is increasing (by measurement) and the resistance is decreasing (physics, see links above), we know the current is increasing (Ohm's Law) a bunch.

We don't know why, at this point. That's why I'm suspecting a chemical action such as that found in batteries.

Here are the three expressions of Ohm's Law:


V = I x R (Voltage = Current multiplied by Resistance)

R = V / I (Resistance = Voltage divided by Current)

I = V / R (Current = Voltage Divided by Resistance)
 

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
Concerning the voltage of the radiator. How could the radiator not be grounded to the block since it is continually connected to the block by water which would ground it???? There is also the steel lines from the transmission to the radiator also making a ground. I am planning to put a magnesium ribbon in the radiator hose with a filter following it to serve as a anode.
One would think that the trans and engine are indeed grounded, but remember there are rubber mounts on the trans and engine that prevent both from contacting the frame, unless of course they are worn or broken. The clamps that secure the tranny lines to the frame would be the only source of a true ground, but then again, if you have an aluminum/plastic radiator, the oil cooler may be fully insulated from the radiator body, not providing a ground, but I see what you're saying.
The radiator has rubber mounts both on top and bottom and the hoses are rubber, so it too is insulated with the exception of the water. But depending on the alkalinity and chemical makeup of the coolant, it doesn't always provide a good path to ground or is a good conductor of electricity.


I think the problem is that with the replacement parts for these trucks being different materials and designs then what was originally designed, some may see some issues with electrolysis that would have not been an issue before [using OEM style parts]. The problem now is that you have plastic, aluminum, iron copper/bronze and steel which all expand and contract at different rates and interact with electricity differently.
 
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GunnyM1009

Well-known member
354
530
93
Location
Roanoke/Alabama
Had to do a roadside U Joint repair today. The Moog that I just put in threw a end cap. The joys of putting in a Ujoint on wet ground right after it rained.
 

usabamaman

Member
71
23
8
Location
Anywhere, Alabama
One would think that the trans and engine are indeed grounded, but remember there are rubber mounts on the trans and engine that prevent both from contacting the frame, unless of course they are worn or broken. The clamps that secure the tranny lines to the frame would be the only source of a true ground, but then again, if you have an aluminum/plastic radiator, the oil cooler may be fully insulated from the radiator body, not providing a ground, but I see what you're saying.
The radiator has rubber mounts both on top and bottom and the hoses are rubber, so it too is insulated with the exception of the water. But depending on the alkalinity and chemical makeup of the coolant, it doesn't always provide a good path to ground or is a good conductor of electricity.


I think the problem is that with the replacement parts for these trucks being different materials and designs then what was originally designed, some may see some issues with electrolysis that would have not been an issue before [using OEM style parts]. The problem now is that you have plastic, aluminum, iron copper/bronze and steel which all expand and contract at different rates and interact with electricity differently.


I have a new OEM type $450.00 copper/brass radiator and a new aluminum heater core. The heater core was only around $30.00. I am really wanting the new radiator to last as long as possible. I am thinking that the heater core may work as a sacrifice for the system, but to be sure the seams in the radiator are safe I will put my magnesium ribbon in the system as an anode. I will follow this with an coolant filter.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
I think the problem is that with the replacement parts for these trucks being different materials and designs then what was originally designed, some may see some issues with electrolysis that would have not been an issue before [using OEM style parts]. The problem now is that you have plastic, aluminum, iron copper/bronze and steel which all expand and contract at different rates and interact with electricity differently.

All good points, Nova. [thumbzup]


I have a new OEM type $450.00 copper/brass radiator and a new aluminum heater core. The heater core was only around $30.00. I am really wanting the new radiator to last as long as possible. I am thinking that the heater core may work as a sacrifice for the system, but to be sure the seams in the radiator are safe I will put my magnesium ribbon in the system as an anode. I will follow this with an coolant filter.

Might not hurt to find a way to ground the radiator and heater core, too. I just did that with the family van, and it killed the voltage I had.

Have to measure and verify, though. There can be a lot of strange things going on with electrolysis, and sometimes bonding things to ground can make it worse. Since there's a measured voltage, you could try grounding it temporarily and verifying to see if the voltage goes away.
 

TGP (IL)

Active member
512
35
28
Location
Metro East IL
Are those custom deluxe 30 fender emblems? If so where did you find them?
NOS GM found through dealer parts locator and Vintage Parts.
They buy up NOS parts from a variety of manufactures.

http://www.vpartsinc.com/

Truck bone stock other than emblems, running boards, drip molding and IL required cab lights(width)
 

Attachments

joshuak

Active member
747
215
43
Location
Slower shore, DE
Disassembled, cleaned, inspected, replaced seals and lubed speedometer sleeve, cable, adapter and gear. Nicht mehr needless needle bouncing!! :beer:

IMG_1097.jpg

Similar process to tailgate handle, latch control and latches. Before and after picture of latches.

IMG_1098.jpg
 

Redneck92

Member
48
16
8
Location
Germany
- Finished complete 3" homemade exhaust system with stainlesssteel glasspacks

- mounted some accessory lights on the brushguard aswell underneath the rear bumper

- fully converted elektrical system to manual override (ignition, glowplugs, cold advance, starter) with selfmade switchpanel

- switchpanel for accessory lights, roof lights and other stuff


IMG-20160319-WA0008.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etAe9mYiLK8
 

GunnyM1009

Well-known member
354
530
93
Location
Roanoke/Alabama
Took Gunny on some runs around town. Took him down the interstate for the first time since i've owned him and it went very well. Even though the suspension components need to be replaced the ride was surprisingly smooth at 70mph.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF6529.jpgDSCF6531.jpgDSCF6532.jpgI ran the CUCV Crown of Thorns M1009 hard today. Today I completed the spring logging on the farm. I have several other pictures that would not load. Oh Joy. But I will post them on facebook. Thank you for looking. The Crown of Thorns M1009 is still dragging the trailer. I will be loading it with firewood and other material for the next weekend Raucsh Creek trip. Hope to see you there. Then again maybe not all of you but some of you. No I am not bringing any of this firewood it is as green as it gets. It will only smoke and make very little heat. I am bringing some good dry flooring and 4 X 4's. They burn hot and add a HMMWV mag run flat and you will warm your soul. Have a great day.
 
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