What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[Volvo740turbo]

Today's CUCV related task was to install a better window than the plastic wrap, since there's more rain coming.
It was a b*tch to get installed, mostly because without a helping (pushing) hand from the outside, it's...well, a lot harder. Used a cargo holder, which while helpful, pushed up rather than down. Also helpful was that the sliding window allowed pulling on it from the inside to some extent.
Anyway, $40 and some time well spent. Now I don't have to fix the exhaust .View attachment 696626 With the window closed it's quiet again.View attachment 696625

Very nice!

 

[Drock]

From what I can find, nobody makes a front receiver mount for a k5 blazer.
But folks have taken a rear receiver hitch from different application an cut it down to work.
Want to have a receiver mount winch.
Front is to recover others.
Rear for self recover.
Learned that lesson with my 84 k5.
A winch up front does one no good when stuck nose down in a mud hole one has no intention of crossing in a forward direction any longer...

here's one.........https://www.realtruck.com/front-hitches/chevy/c-k-pickup-3500/1984/

 

[LT67]

Blindspot mirror so I don't flatten a BMW Mini, Fiat, Smart Car, Miata, etc..... lol

 

[Bighorn]

Hey Thanks.
I'll have to look into that and see if it will fit a Blazer.

 

[gottaluvit]

New left tie rod end. Alignment next week.

Tried the string alignment this past week and realized "I can't do this" because I have HMMWV rims on the back but couldn't use them up front because of contact with calipers. Decided to attempt the tape measure like I did with the 5-ton and gave 1/4" tow in. Test drove and still pulled hard right. Called for alignment appointment. My truck pulls back in fairly quick and alignment guy goes to service desk with my keys. They said I had the alignment dead on and all parts up front were good. He said the right front tire was bad, making it pull. Changed out for another set of HMMWV tires on civy rims that I had on a trailer and now no more pull or growl. That tire had me thinking the whole front had bad parts everywhere. Crazy what a bad tire can do.

 

[Volvo740turbo]

Lower radiator hose...pretty sure it's original equipment.. bleh

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Hey Thanks.
I'll have to look into that and see if it will fit a Blazer.

The front frame of all square body trucks are pretty much identical, the thickness of the frame does change K5 through K30, the rear portion of the frame on blazers and suburbans are different then pick up trucks because of the rear mount tank. So any front mount receiver that will fit a K30 will fit your K5 blazer.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk

 

[The FLU farm]

Tried the string alignment this past week and realized "I can't do this" because I have HMMWV rims on the back but couldn't use them up front because of contact with calipers.

The rear tires and wheels should have nothing to do with using string, tape measure, stick, or whatever when setting the toe-in.
Since the front track on CUCV era K series vehicles is wider than the rear track, using a string from front to rear tires would result in toe-out, or the impression that the rear axle is toed in. And if you had a dually, the result would be severe toe-in.
At least I'm guessing that that's how you did it. If instead measuring between the inside of the front tires, forward and behind the axle, it doesn't matter what's on the rear axle or how wide it is.
I often use angle iron (or something else suitable) clamped to the rotors, them measure fore and aft of the axle from that. If measuring at points the same distance from axle center as the radius of the tires, it should come out very close or perfect.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Blindspot mirror so I don't flatten a BMW Mini, Fiat, Smart Car, Miata, etc..... lol

You say flattening them as if that would be a bad thing....

 

[german m1008]

Blindspot mirror so I don't flatten a BMW Mini, Fiat, Smart Car, Miata, etc..... lol

View attachment 696673

.....a Burco 3031 mirrorglass is also a possibility.......probably somewhat more expensive

 

[Bighorn]

Pulled my radiator today to have it boiled out and a pinhole leak repaired.
Also ready to install a Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer since the radiator is out of the way.
My 1976 K5 helps by holding the tools and parts from the 1986 M1009.
I'll have my co-worker take the radiator down to Miller Fab in the morning and have their radiator shop boil it out and leak check/fix leaks.
It will be good as new.
One wierd thing is the mixture of standard and metric bolts..
The radiator support cover had 10 mm bolts, fan shroud 3/8, p/s pump brackets and alternator brackets 15mm, oil cooler lines 3/4".. I thought we won that war?

By the looks of the inside of the radiator.. I made a good call.
A lot of people think I am crazy because I buy a used vehicle and immediately tear it apart even though it appears to run well.
Call me crazy then.

View attachment 696692View attachment 696693View attachment 696694View attachment 696695
View attachment 696709View attachment 696708
View attachment 696718View attachment 696719

A 15/16 socket and an impact wrench to get the Harmonic balancer bolt out then a #G1025 model Harmonic Balancer remove/install tool kit to get the HB off.
The Fluidampr comes with the spacer which must be installed first on the crank before the damper goes on for the 6.2 diesel.
I am also putting a new crank oil seal on while i'm in here.
So far so fun.
A while later..
It is done.
I have a Brand New Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer.
Can't start the truck yet because my radiator won't be back from the shop till I can pick it up on my day off Wednesday.
Luckily I still have the 1976 K5 to go get it.
Definitely helped to have the right tools.
That HB remover and installer tool was well worth it.
Can't imagine getting the HB off and on without it.

The old HB showing signs of deterioration.
93,000 miles and 31 years of wear on this HB.
The cracked ribber was NOT visible on the front of the HB.
Only after I got the thing off could I see the wear/damage.
VERY glad I decided to do this for my 6.2 right off the bat instead of sinking a bunch of money into her in other areas and possibly having major engine trouble down the line.
This project was fun.
Next projects will be the Injection Pump and axle swap.

View attachment 696720

 

[Volvo740turbo]

Pulled my radiator today to have it boiled out and a pinhole leak repaired.
Also ready to install a Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer since the radiator is out of the way.
My 1976 K5 helps by holding the tools and parts from the 1986 M1009.
I'll have my co-worker take the radiator down to Miller Fab in the morning and have their radiator shop boil it out and leak check/fix leaks.
It will be good as new.
One wierd thing is the mixture of standard and metric bolts..
The radiator support cover had 10 mm bolts, fan shroud 3/8, p/s pump brackets and alternator brackets 15mm, oil cooler lines 3/4".. I thought we won that war?

By the looks of the inside of the radiator.. I made a good call.
A lot of people think I am crazy because I buy a used vehicle and immediately tear it apart even though it appears to run well.
Call me crazy then.

View attachment 696692View attachment 696693View attachment 696694View attachment 696695
View attachment 696709View attachment 696708
View attachment 696718View attachment 696719

A 15/16 socket and an impact wrench to get the Harmonic balancer bolt out then a #G1025 model Harmonic Balancer remove/install tool kit to get the HB off.
The Fluidampr comes with the spacer which must be installed first on the crank before the damper goes on for the 6.2 diesel.
I am also putting a new crank oil seal on while i'm in here.
So far so fun.
A while later..
It is done.
I have a Brand New Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer.
Can't start the truck yet because my radiator won't be back from the shop till I can pick it up on my day off Wednesday.
Luckily I still have the 1976 K5 to go get it.
Definitely helped to have the right tools.
That HB remover and installer tool was well worth it.
Can't imagine getting the HB off and on without it.

The old HB showing signs of deterioration.
93,000 miles and 31 years of wear on this HB.
The cracked ribber was NOT visible on the front of the HB.
Only after I got the thing off could I see the wear/damage.
VERY glad I decided to do this for my 6.2 right off the bat instead of sinking a bunch of money into her in other areas and possibly having major engine trouble down the line.
This project was fun.
Next projects will be the Injection Pump and axle swap.

View attachment 696720

You can start it if you do t let it run till its hot...or you can feed a water hose in the radiator hose if you wa t to run it longer

 

[Volvo740turbo]

Blindspot mirror so I don't flatten a BMW Mini, Fiat, Smart Car, Miata, etc..... lol

View attachment 696673

Everyone tries to kill me in my miata ...ive been knocked off the highway in my last one from a 19 year old girl on her facebook...

 

[The FLU farm]

Everyone tries to kill me in my miata ...ive been knocked off the highway in my last one from a 19 year old girl on her facebook...

Oh, so many tempting comments to be made here. But I'll refrain.

 

[Bighorn]

Ahh. I thought about it;
I have the engine oil cooler lines and transmission oil cooler lines disconnected since the radiator is removed.
Maybe I'll wait.
I'll post again after it is all back together and have a report on how it changed (if at all) the idle quality and or noise.
I don't think much will be different but by Wednesday afternnon we will all know.

 

[Volvo740turbo]

Oh, so many tempting comments to be made here. But I'll refrain.

Thanks because I almost died in mine....

 

[Volvo740turbo]

Ahh. I thought about it;
I have the engine oil cooler lines and transmission oil cooler lines disconnected since the radiator is removed.
Maybe I'll wait.
I'll post again after it is all back together and have a report on how it changed (if at all) the idle quality and or noise.
I don't think much will be different but by Wednesday afternnon we will all know.

Yeah trans and oil cooler lines would set that back...i guess the last time I did that it was on a 5 speed car...woops

 

[computer54]

Ahh. I thought about it;
I have the engine oil cooler lines and transmission oil cooler lines disconnected since the radiator is removed.
Maybe I'll wait.
I'll post again after it is all back together and have a report on how it changed (if at all) the idle quality and or noise.
I don't think much will be different but by Wednesday afternnon we will all know.

I would not do that because now it's open and you can get to the lines now and latter you would have to ????? on you hands.

 

[Bighorn]

Miller Fab says that radiator is shot.
By the time he cleans it out the whole bottom would be swiss cheese due to the corrosion.
Basically the corrosion was holding the radiator together.
No problem.
He is going to find me a replacement.
I also found a radiator on Rock Auto but I'll let my local shop find one for me since he went to the trouble of diagnosing it.
Like to support the local guys.

EDIT: New Northern all Aluminum Radiator $498.00 delivered to Miller Fabrication in Lovell Wy. tomorrow.
They have one at a distributor in Billings MT.
Since I am in the National forest I can't get mail or deliveries here so it makes sense to just let Miller Fab get it for me.
I had an option to go a little cheaper with a plastic tank model but declined.
I found a Spectrum radiator at Napa for about $350 too.
But I went with the Northern model.
Scott at Miller Fab's radiator shop said they have had good luck with Northern. Only one that had an o-ring leak from the factory in 2 years.
He said the more expensive one will be better for severe use like wheeling and that is exactly what I do with my rigs.

 

[cucvrus]

I like the picture of the harmonic balancer. I would like you to test something. Put that balancer in a vise or block it and see how hard that is to knock that ring off. I tried. It took great effort. I see cracks like that on almost every engine I pull. But try the hammer test. That thing is on there very tight.