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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

DREDnot

Well-known member
725
445
63
Location
Phoenix, AZ
...When it finally spoke...I beheld a Great Cloud...and it was white. And the whole of the neighborhood beheld it too...and called the cops.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
for those who want to preserve things I have found that the new wd40 sticky formula works very well. I have my 6.2 that I pulled sprayed down with this stuff and so far (almost a year) it looks the same, no additional rust and I live close to Galveston where everything rust overnight.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
18,007
4,579
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
for those who want to preserve things I have found that the new wd40 sticky formula works very well. I have my 6.2 that I pulled sprayed down with this stuff and so far (almost a year) it looks the same, no additional rust and I live close to Galveston where everything rust overnight.
Hadn't heard about the stuff, comes in aerosol cans?
 

edpdx

Active member
795
75
28
Location
Oregon
Installed an amp for my stereo. While at it I discovered a wire that had pulled free of the crimp connector. It went to the toggle for my offroad lights. Soldered a new connector on, and married the wire to the other on the toggle.

I have the tailgate apart. The crank was not engaging, so the window was not going down- a pain since I can't lower the tailgate with the window UP. Cranked until I caught a break and got the window moving. Pulled the regulator, and turning the knob by hand I found the gears don't mesh a bout half the actual travel distance. I replaced the regulator in 2012 or so- not very good mileage- it was a Goodmark unit. I found a new GM regulator. We'll see how long that one goes. Bought an OEM clutch, since everything's apart.

Primed and painted the crank. I got the idea to add some patches of iphone screen protection film to the high-wear areas on the newly-painted crank to keep the handle from rubbing paint off of the body of the crank fixture. I'll get a picture when I get the new regulator in.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,441
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Grease is the key to keeping the rear window regulator happy. Wheel bearing grease/chassis grease. That and clean side runs and polished sash. I have the same one in Crown of Thorns for 20 years. Grease and oil. No spray crap. Waste of time. Also I use the oil can and oil the crank at the driver and the knob and pivot point. Never fails me. My trim lok overhaul also works well and has less drag then the run channel felts. Good Luck.
 

computer54

Member
317
1
18
Location
Nashville,TN
Yeah, in an ideal world I'd replace all the gaskets and seals before putting that one back into service. I'll try to remember to try turning it a tiny bit today, just to satisfy my curiosity.
If I remove the heads now, with my luck I wouldn't find the heads again when it came time to reassemble the engine.


That's what happens to me because my kids move things and take them and give them away too. With out my knowing about them too.
 

computer54

Member
317
1
18
Location
Nashville,TN
OK I triggered this conversation. At what point do I say the engine is scrap. It has sat for 5 years and been untouched. It has a 7/16" bolt in the front and is locked up tight. I think I will just scrap it for parts. If anyone needs a set of small block heads. I could have used the engine several times but it is carbureted. Everything I had that needed an engine was EFI. 1985 engine with a 4 bbl.
Yea and Holly has an EFI kit for it too.
 

Drock

New member
1,020
12
0
Location
Eatonton GA
Turned my fuel up 1/8 of a turn. When I installed my Banks turbo a while back, I had to back off the 1/4 turn advance by an 1/8 because it was running a little hot. But now that I've replaced the heads, gaskets, and upgraded to studs. I went ahead and put back the 1/8 turn. It's amazing how much difference that little bit makes! I have to go on a steel run tomorrow so I'll watch the vitals and see if I'm still in the safe zone.
 

DREDnot

Well-known member
725
445
63
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Finally went out for a proper shake down run now that the new motor mounts are in.

Deep sugar sand...and some washout crossings.
It is now FMC

DSC_4153.jpgDSCN2415.jpgDSCN2405.jpg
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,810
113
Location
GA Mountains
I had my M1010 trucked up to GA in March of last year. Today I drove it to pick up my son from football. Was gone about 90 minutes. That is the longest it has been out of the yard since delivered. I have not put any fuel in it since it was in FL. Today I filled it up, that's what I did to my CUCV.
 

ywgspotter

New member
22
1
3
Location
Edmonton, Alberta
Haven't done a whole lot to the M1009 as of lately. Fixed my drivers side turn signal socket, installed 60g AC-Delco glowplugs in the Timmies parking lot, encountered a fuel leak from what was the return line and got it fixed. Added a couple markings to the side of the unit, which I did a private pyle job on I must say. Most recent thing I did was go buy some 33" tires for her, now I just need another alignment.

Mike22554778_1685512028150231_7936848900903144537_n.jpg22728873_1688132117888222_7962675508548337320_n.jpg
 

86m1028

Active member
1,687
17
38
Location
Murphy TEXAS
Got some new Copper Discoverer STT Pro tires. Made is USA!

Good LOW speed mud tire but they don’t handle long highway speeds very well. Not that the cucv is a high speed vehicle but I bought a set & ran them on a newer 3/4 ton diesel
3 of them separated on longer 75-80 mph runs.
Took them back, they warrantied 1 with a $50 credit ����.
Put 3 new on & 2 of those separated (all less than 5000 on them).
Pulled ALL 4, bought a set of hankooks & have been happy ever since.

I do run a heavy 3/4 ton 4x4 with trailer (10-12k) 75-80mph extended lengths of time (5+ hours)

They DO NOT handle weight or speed at all !!!

Just watch them closely !
 
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