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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

mike634

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Sussex New Jersey
It was a Spectra premium CU850. Looks like the top row of fins detached from the left side metal tank. I'm guessing a bad solder job from the factory.



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cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF4131.jpgDSCF4132.jpgCrown of Thorns M1009 with a Dana 60 front axle. I read the TM's and could NOT find how it was supposed to be installed in the M1009. Not sure of what the attraction is. Seems a bit cumbersome to me. I thought this out and wanted to move the axles without tearing up the lawn. The Wife and Grand children helped me. If Rick Jr was here it would have been rip, roar and tear. Mud slinging tire spinning and torn up turf. I raked the entire lawn yesterday and mowed the grass for the final time this year. I wanted it moved and placed somewhere that I can cover it for now. It was earmarked for the M1009 salvage project. That's NOT happening. That Crown of Thorns M1009 I used for 20 years as hard as I needed to and it still has the stock driveline in it. I did do then head gaskets as routine maintenance back in 2010. Thanks for looking Have a Great Day. Happy Thanksgiving. You can see in the pictures my helpers are giving me a victorious thumbs up. That was easy. Not one back was injured.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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Location
Virginia
It was a Spectra premium CU850. Looks like the top row of fins detached from the left side metal tank. I'm guessing a bad solder job from the factory.
Could be but....

I fought that battle with another vehicle for a few years. Went through one radiator after another. Finally figured out that the mounting places were not aligned (due to a deer hit) and every time we tightened the bolts, we were twisting the radiator. Add some road vibration to that stress, and the tank would eventually pop off. Once I realized that, I got a new one and mounted it on some heavy duty weatherstripping so that it could stand out a bit from the mounting points, and carefully tightened the bolts down while checking for straightness. Solved the problem.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Could be but....

I fought that battle with another vehicle for a few years. Went through one radiator after another. Finally figured out that the mounting places were not aligned (due to a deer hit) and every time we tightened the bolts, we were twisting the radiator. Add some road vibration to that stress, and the tank would eventually pop off. Once I realized that, I got a new one and mounted it on some heavy duty weatherstripping so that it could stand out a bit from the mounting points, and carefully tightened the bolts down while checking for straightness. Solved the problem.
Excellent advise. I always replace the isolators for the radiators. I never had any Spectras just fail. For that part I never had any radiator just up and fail in a few years. I still like the plastic aluminum radiators best. But they still need to be aligned and seated tight and straight.
 

Evil Dr. Porkchop

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Supporting Vendor
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Location
Colchester, VT
I assume no holes are allowed in Vermont state inspections.
I guess it depends on who is doing the inspection, as well as where the rust is. Technically it shouldn't be an issue unless it's a structural problem or a safety hazard such as a person getting cut on it. I just had the inner fender holes and a small cab corner spot so I took an hour to weld it up so it looks nice before bringing it in.

Inspections have gotten a lot stricter in the last year with pictures and a database of every vehicle that goes in. If your vehicle fails it goes into the database so a red flag pops up anywhere you bring it.:|
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF4077.jpgI have come to the conclusion that the OEM oil cooler lines have reached maximum life use at this point in time. It may just be a fluke but a friend called and his lines are leaking . Just started yesterday. That makes 3 sets of oil cooler lines in the past month. Check your lines. If they are original Think about changing them. My recommendation is Dorman 625-154 & 625-155. I changed a set on a challenging truck in about an hour and a half. I was able to put them it the bracket and all. Last time I used A C Delcos I wrestled them in place and had to bend them to clear the linkage. I had a set of NAPA I stripped (supposedly) The flare with my bare hands. Imagine that. I was told here that NAPA was Dorman. Could be they looked the same. Made in China. So I have more DSCF2695 (1).jpgoil cooler line replacement to look forward to. Which is good. $$$$. DSCF2696 (1).jpg
These pictures show the CUCV M1028 that have the oil cooler lines leaking. Lets call him Mr. Dumpy. The owner ask if he could drive it to cut firewood. He said it is just a slight drip when idling. I said sure if you trust it to not blow out completely. I seen the slight drip. It was a steady drip. No wood will be cut and loaded till the lines are changed. Happy Thanksgiving.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
With out a further ado I want to report that the Dorman oil cooler lines once again get an A + in fit and ease of installation. I felt so confident I lay on the ground outside and installed them on a friends truck. I was able to get everything lined up the first time out and also did not get an oil bath. I did find the shift down wire flapping in the breeze and the speedometer cable riding on the shift linkage. All has been repaired and rerouted. I also spotted the fuel gauge wire was on the out side of the frame tied fast. Different TM I guess. It was fixed. Thanks for looking. No pictures to show. They are redundant. Happy Holidays.
 

olly hondro

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
882
525
93
Location
tucson AZ
lights today

lighting.jpgGot the LEDs wired up. Still pondering the turn signal arrangement. The dominant thought in my little brain is to mount, not sure where, a pair of the 4 inch square LED lights, with a removable amber cover on the front, wired to the turn signal circuit. Turn signals on-road, 'nuther set of lights offroad. I'd point them downward to light what's immediately in front of me, and to reduce the perceived intensity straight on when the turn signal feature is active. I have to think about it some more. It's OK to think about something before I do it, right? :):)
 

DREDnot

Well-known member
725
445
63
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Finally got around to hooking up a cigarette lighter/power point. Junk yard score.
While I was under there, I found a courtesy light fixture. Installed bulb to make it functional off the headlight switch dome position, obviously.

Mounted up a cheap fan. Its been record heat here this week. Fan helps.

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richingalveston

Well-known member
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Location
galveston/Texas
get the turn signals from the later grill set up where the turn signal is behind the grill beside the headlight. LMC has them I believe it is the grill with two headlights on each side.
 

Tinstar

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
I will get a set of those after the holidays.
A winter front for the 5 ton also.

Hope the seat covers hold up as good as they look.
 
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