What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[86m1028]

Productive weekend on the m1008.
-Replaced 13g GP's with 60g. Seems to start quicker.
-Installed Zerostart 1000w block heater
-Lubed speedo cable. Found a neat trick to lube from the bottom by the trans.
-Tried to touch up the camouflage job but didn't turn out so well. Time for total repaint.
-Adjusted crossover drag link so my steering wheel is straight again
-Changed oil
-Ditched the round chrome lights on the front, have some LED's I still need to install.

View attachment 719909

How much lift & what tire size are you running ?
Nice looking truck !

 

[rodent]

How much lift & what tire size are you running ?
Nice looking truck !

Thanks! 5" total lift. 4" Tuff Country EZ ride with 1" zero rate in the front, 58" F150 springs with shackle flip and 1" zero rates in the back for smoother ride. Tires are 37x12.5x17 and are very affordable for that size.

 

[Matt S]

-Lubed speedo cable. Found a neat trick to lube from the bottom by the trans.

Does that stop it from bouncing? What's the trick?

 

[rodent]

Yes. Mine no longer bounces or makes a noise.

Basically adapting the small red tube from a can of white lithium grease to a piece of rubber with a hole in it like a piece of tube or anything that can seal against the speedometer cable outer housing. Pushes the lube up the housing. No need to take the dash apart to get to the speedometer cable. I had a cone shaped air hose tip laying around. Used a vacuum nipple cover and poked a hole in it for the small red tube. I'm sure you can piece together something better at a hardware store.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Drivers side alt belt kept getting looser and looser.... less than a year old.... finally tossed itself.... 30 mins later was back on the road.. No big deal...

 

[rustystud]

Yes. Mine no longer bounces or makes a noise.

Basically adapting the small red tube from a can of white lithium grease to a piece of rubber with a hole in it like a piece of tube or anything that can seal against the speedometer cable outer housing. Pushes the lube up the housing. No need to take the dash apart to get to the speedometer cable. I had a cone shaped air hose tip laying around. Used a vacuum nipple cover and poked a hole in it for the small red tube. I'm sure you can piece together something better at a hardware store.

View attachment 719983

Nice little trick !

 

[Tinstar]

Did the PEX plastic sleeve bushing on the door striker trick as mention in another thread.
No more slamming doors.
Cheap, easy and worked perfect.

 

[rustystud]

Did the PEX plastic sleeve bushing on the door striker trick as mention in another thread.
No more slamming doors.
Cheap, easy and worked perfect.

View attachment 720172View attachment 720173View attachment 720174

I plan on doing this myself this upcoming week.

 

[cucvrus]

Did the PEX plastic sleeve bushing on the door striker trick as mention in another thread.
No more slamming doors.
Cheap, easy and worked perfect.

View attachment 720172View attachment 720173View attachment 720174

Tinstar. That first picture appears that the door is hanging and the latch is grinding its way over the striker. Did you ever look at the bronze door bushings? Open the door and on the bottom open corner can you lift and wiggle the door? If so it needs new bushings installed. And grease them well. You may have old damage to that striker but I did want to mention the damage.

 

[Tinstar]

Tinstar. That first picture appears that the door is hanging and the latch is grinding its way over the striker. Did you ever look at the bronze door bushings? Open the door and on the bottom open corner can you lift and wiggle the door? If so it needs new bushings installed. And grease them well. You may have old damage to that striker but I did want to mention the damage.

I was waiting for someone to mention that.
It’s old damage and door was fixed not long after getting truck.
They were horrible.
Passenger side was the worst and that’s the pic your referring to.

Need new strikers but can’t find undamaged GM ones.
Do not want the cheap non-GM ones.

If you have any, please add to list.!!!

 

[90Jimmy]

I finally got my first CUCV today....long time wanting M1009. So I guess what I did to it today was pay for it....About 40 miles from purchase location to the house, about 10 miles down the hard road, right front blow out!!!!! Put a spare on my CUCV today.

 

[antennaclimber]

I finally got my first CUCV today....long time wanting M1009. So I guess what I did to it today was pay for it....About 40 miles from purchase location to the house, about 10 miles down the hard road, right front blow out!!!!! Put a spare on my CUCV today.

Welcome to the OD Green addiction.

 

[Tinstar]

1987 M1008A1 rolled past 100,000 miles today on way to breakfast.
Did it while towing a M101A2

Trucks Running better than ever.

 

[peglegwillie]

Have an idea on rear 24v 12 v power. Rear bus bars are not connected, have an on/off switch that cuts off batteries after you shut engine down. Have a 2000w 24v inverter that I’m mounting on right back seat panel. Thought of idea to connect upper bar to switch so connects when turned on. Then run power wire to inverter to run power strip to rear of T3. Also have 24v to 12 v converter that will connect to upper bus. Run 12 v from that converter to other bus bar for 12 v accessories IE CB CD few other necessities. Mechanical engineering tech BS seems like should work with out issues.
Any response will be viewed with interest .

 

[stonewalljac]

I have a 24volt Socket brand inverter that I use on my m1009. it is a 10,000W surge 5,000W continuous. 120 volt. It comes in handy for running power tools and lights and things.

 

[n8roro]

Tinstar. That first picture appears that the door is hanging and the latch is grinding its way over the striker. Did you ever look at the bronze door bushings? Open the door and on the bottom open corner can you lift and wiggle the door? If so it needs new bushings installed. And grease them well. You may have old damage to that striker but I did want to mention the damage.

I added pex the other day and i have that I have that type of wear on the striker and no door wiggle up and down. Does that mean the door should be adjusted up slightly? Also, the driver side door is not weather tight when going through a car wash. I replaced the seal on the cab, but it looks like the door seal will need to be replaced as well. Do you think the door needs to be adjusted up as well as having a new seal installed? I can possibly pics if it would help.

 

[cucvrus]

Using a torx 50 loosen the striker and adjust it in more and up if the latch is dragging. Tighten real good and grease everything. Worked for all my vehicles. No spray lube. Real oil can and real grease.

 

[Tinstar]

You just kinda have to play with the adjustment.
Adjusting the striker inward (to a point) will allow the door to close tighter and with new seals should help with the water issue.
The hinge bushings have already been discussed and will help also.

Doors were swapped in CUCVs a lot when in service and in govt. surplus life.
I bet no one ever bothered to adjust anything.

 

[cucvrus]

I adjust every ones door that I see slamming and closing hard.

 

[sneekyeye]

I installed a separate washer pump as mine was broken when i bought it. Had to adjust the nozzle up, it was spraying straight at the bottom of the windshield.
Managed to make my wipers park normally again in the meantime.

I tried to put on new transmission mounts, but I got two different mounts in identical part number boxed, so I just put my lower trans mounts on and will replace the tops later.

Replaced the front leaf spring front bushings with a cobbled together press of sockets, all thread and washers.

I removed the sway bar to replace the end bushings. Well, I was unsuccessful, and ended up ordering the energy suspension ones. I couldn't fab a die to squeeze the factory style bushings in and ended up damaging the one I pressed in.

Without the sway bar, I had my first taste of death wobble. I hit a pothole on the right front tire and it took to shaking and carrying on. Slowed to about under 25 and it stopped. Ive hit this bump dozens of times with the sway bar installed and it's never been a problem. All front leaf spring bushings are new and the main tie rod are new. There is a little play in the drag link, and between that and the missing sway bar, I figure that is what is causing it.