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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

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olly hondro

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inventory of 34 yr old parts

Now that I have made safety improvements (still need the 5 pt harnesses) its time to improve reliability. I can get into some pretty remote desert locations. Working from nose to tail, am listing any part that is 34 years old. Those parts will get queued up for replacement.

I'll put the parts on the Pay Forward forum, though not certain why anyone would want them.

I've already demonstrated that I have more resources than sense, so no worries :)
 
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olly hondro

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FrankenCub said:
One of the comments concerning this was for using electric fans to eliminate belt stretch....
Still doesn't matter, gotta have the belts to drive the alternators lol.
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Oh, I don't know, I can imagine DC motors driving alternators, power steering pump, even an air conditioning compressor. Could be a modular design: each function in a box with its corresponding motor. Just a thought experiment, not claiming its practical.
 
FrankenCub

FrankenCub

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olly hondro said:
Oh, I don't know, I can imagine DC motors driving alternators, power steering pump, even an air conditioning compressor. Could be a modular design: each function in a box with its corresponding motor. Just a thought experiment, not claiming its practical.
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It's not even going to be electrically feasible. The alternators will increase the load on the motors as they are charging, so figure in the added amperage to run the motors. Then if you want to turn a power steering pump, which will be a substantial motor, add that amperage in, air conditioner even more amperage yet. There's a formula for figuring the load up but I can't think of it at the moment. Been a long time since I did electric work. In the end I don't believe you'll produce enough electricity to make up for the draw. That's why we don't have purely self supported electric cars running around. It just doesn't work.
 
rustystud

rustystud

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olly hondro said:
Oh, I don't know, I can imagine DC motors driving alternators, power steering pump, even an air conditioning compressor. Could be a modular design: each function in a box with its corresponding motor. Just a thought experiment, not claiming its practical.
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Actually that was GM's plan years ago. To completely "modularize" all systems on the vehicle. No system could be rebuilt at the average "shop" level. All components had to go back to the factory for rebuilding. All systems including the AC, power steering, braking, etc.. would be powered from 120 volt AC power generated from the engines genset. Basically a hybrid system. There would be no power train as we know it, just an electric motor at each wheel. There almost there if you think about it. Just look at the modern vehicles out there now. According to the engineers this type of vehicle could attain 100 miles per gallon. So using electric motors to power things like the radiator fan makes perfect sense. After all, "ALL" modern vehicles use this now. No one uses a belt powered fan. Why ? Because it saves fuel. Simple.
 
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olly hondro

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rustystud said:
Actually that was GM's plan years ago. To completely "modularize" all systems on the vehicle. No system could be rebuilt at the average "shop" level. All components had to go back to the factory for rebuilding. All systems including the AC, power steering, braking, etc.. would be powered from 120 volt AC power generated from the engines genset. Basically a hybrid system. There would be no power train as we know it, just an electric motor at each wheel. There almost there if you think about it. Just look at the modern vehicles out there now. According to the engineers this type of vehicle could attain 100 miles per gallon. So using electric motors to power things like the radiator fan makes perfect sense. After all, "ALL" modern vehicles use this now. No one uses a belt powered fan. Why ? Because it saves fuel. Simple.
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I see two- electric cooling fan setups out there. I am imagining rewiring them in series then powering off the 24 V bus. Guess that would go in the mods forum, sorry :)
trophy top view.jpg
 
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Ctilander

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My mechanic has had my M1008 6.2 for four months, we replaced the glow plug control module thanks to Oregon Fuel Injection, replaced all glow plugs, new fuel tank, sending unit, and even the glow plug control card, my mechanic is baffled, this is what he says, (below) we are hoping someone has the solution, appreciate all suggestions, thank you in advance, (Glow plugs not working I have 24v at the top of the relay voltage at the pink and blue wire if I ground out the blue wire everything works fine except the light on the dash doesn’t come on I replaced the control card still have no glow plug light and no power to the glow plugs). Does anyone have a glow plug schematic? Thank you all, :?:
 
TechnoWeenie

TechnoWeenie

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Ctilander said:
My mechanic has had my M1008 6.2 for four months, we replaced the glow plug control module thanks to Oregon Fuel Injection, replaced all glow plugs, new fuel tank, sending unit, and even the glow plug control card, my mechanic is baffled, this is what he says, (below) we are hoping someone has the solution, appreciate all suggestions, thank you in advance, (Glow plugs not working I have 24v at the top of the relay voltage at the pink and blue wire if I ground out the blue wire everything works fine except the light on the dash doesn’t come on I replaced the control card still have no glow plug light and no power to the glow plugs). Does anyone have a glow plug schematic? Thank you all, :?:
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Why not just go push button?
 
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olly hondro

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ancient Indian artifact?

No, just petrified bumpstop. Replacing them, turns out that using shocks to limit suspension travel is no bueno :)
artifact.jpg
 
MarcusOReallyus

MarcusOReallyus

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Ctilander said:
My mechanic has had my M1008 6.2 for four months, we replaced the glow plug control module thanks to Oregon Fuel Injection, replaced all glow plugs, new fuel tank, sending unit, and even the glow plug control card, my mechanic is baffled, this is what he says, (below) we are hoping someone has the solution, appreciate all suggestions, thank you in advance, (Glow plugs not working I have 24v at the top of the relay voltage at the pink and blue wire if I ground out the blue wire everything works fine except the light on the dash doesn’t come on I replaced the control card still have no glow plug light and no power to the glow plugs). Does anyone have a glow plug schematic? Thank you all, :?:
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  1. It would help if your mechanic knew something about punctuation and could write a coherent English sentence, so we could know what he's saying, but it sounds like he's got 24v at the pink wire. If so, that's wrong. If he's saying that he has 24v at the top of the relay and (some unspecified) voltage at the pink and blue wire, it would be nice to know what voltage, and under what conditions. What voltage is present at each terminal changes depending on what you are doing, so just stating there is voltage isn't telling the whole story.
  2. Everything you need to know about the GP system can be found at the Helpful Threads sticky. Just scroll down a bit and you'll see Glow Plug System. It's all there.
  3. I have no idea if Oregon Fuel Injection is a reputable outfit or not, but I checked their website, and I don't see any controller cards for a CUCV on their website. If your mechanic cobbled something together, it's probably not going to work.
  4. New cards that actually work on our vehicles are available from a member here, antennaclimber. He designed them just for CUCVs and manufactures them here in the U.S. His website is here. Having the right part makes a world of difference.
  5. As a workaround, you can add a momentary pushbutton to the system to operate your GPs manually. All the info is in the sticky mentioned above. Some people don't use the stock controller card at all, just a pushbutton. I don't think that's the best solution, but it does work.
 
rustystud

rustystud

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TechnoWeenie said:
I always loved the idea of diesel electric trucks....like most modern trains.. The engine is only there to provide electricity....
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Our latest buses are already there. The engine only powers the genset. The electric motor provides propulsion, and braking and recharging of the Lithium-Ion batteries. Doing this, we can power a 40 ft bus with only a 4 cylinder diesel engine. Ah the modern age. Kind of sad that I'm retired now what with all the new cool things to play with ! Then again I'm not fixing them either !
 
Tinstar

Tinstar

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The big mining trucks have been doing it for years.

Very large Diesel engine just making electrical power.
4 giant electric motors at the wheels making it move.

Impressive torque is an understatement
 
alpine44

alpine44

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Installed a 700R4 and NP241C with tall adapter yesterday. This combo did not need any modifications to crossmember, frame, or drive shafts. Just the transmission fluid lines between the transmission and radiator needed to be slightly rerouted and bent to fit.

The plug for the 4WD indicator light did not match the switch on the NP241C and I still need to complete the torque converter lockup circuit. Also, the new T-case has an electric VSS and I plan to hack a programable speedometer into my original gauge cluster. That will also deal with the 4.10 axle ratio and 315/75 tires.

The mechanical installation of the new drive-train took the better part of the day.

I had to take a 3 hour break and drive my wife to the ER after she got attacked and bitten by a feral dog pack. Fortunately, this happened close to the county road and our neighbor's son came to help her.
If I run into these dogs today anywhere on our land, another break will be needed to fire up the FLU419 and dig a burial hole. Just another steel soldier's weekend...
 
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