What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[cucvrus]

Heat the drum around the hub eccentric and then give it a whack. I guess M1009 K5 Blazer is what you are working on. Good Luck. When you put it back together brush some never seize on the axle face and flange. Always works for me. Don't chrome it just a small amount goes a long way.

 

[Mainsail]

Heat the drum around the hub eccentric and then give it a whack. I guess M1009 K5 Blazer is what you are working on. Good Luck. When you put it back together brush some never seize on the axle face and flange. Always works for me. Don't chrome it just a small amount goes a long way.

I've never had the drums off, so I never had the chance to slather the anti-seize on it. I always coat some on everything before it goes back together, jeep or cucv.

While the wheels were off I gave the hub a squirt of penetrating oil.

 

[Sharecropper]

Got the new cable shifter temporarily mounted on my NP241 -

 

[FrankenCub]

So to go with my transmission blown post, what's the chance the converter has been contaminated with debris in the fluid? Is there a drain plug on these ones? I may have a line on a low mileage Jasper rebuild.

 

[cucvrus]

No drain plug on the CUCV converter. And I can 100% guarantee the inside is contaminated with debris. As is the cooler in the radiator. Many people fail to have the radiators flushed out after a transmission failure. that is why I always seek outside help and professional services when automotive components fails. I can do the R & R. I let the professional work up to competent professionals. Example. I found a nice near new radiator last week in a YOUPULLIT. It was darn near perfect. Came out of a wrecked 6.2 diesel truck. I dropped it off at the radiator shop and he called me a few days ago and said the tanks were twisted/tweaked a bit and it had a minor leak at each corner. I said fix it. He said he did. $85. Imagine if I just took the assumption that it was a good radiator installed it and spent the money on new hoses, coolant, and not to mention the time. It would have all been in vane. Unless I was the type of person that would dare add stop leak. Stop leak is stop flow. Temporary repair at best. Good Luck if you were closer I would sell you a takeout transmission exchange. I never bother just taking parts out and putting them back in something else with CUCV components at this point. Age and mileage have all taken the toll on wear items. Good Luck. Be Safe.

 

[JPx187]

Been chasing down a gen2 issue, went ahead and replaced some dash lights with LED's. Don't worry, the dummy lights are still incandescent. Really should've spent more time buffing but oh well.

 

[cucvrus]

CUCV head gasket / head/ or change engine survey

I was digging around in my parts cabinet today and came across some paperwork that came with my 1984 M1009/The Mule when I bought it. It is the U.S. Army Equipment Record Folder. And in the folder is the original DD form issue release/receipt document for the M1009 Mule. It shows the...

www.steelsoldiers.com

I really like that weathered look on the gauges. My Mule M1009 had rusty speedometer and fuel gauge face. I think it added to the patina and being that everything worked perfect I was extra happy with the look. I have new LED bulbs and have not decided if I want to install them in the cluster. Still thinking about it. Good Deal. Be Safe.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

So to go with my transmission blown post, what's the chance the converter has been contaminated with debris in the fluid?

As close to 100% as it's possible to get, and a drain plug won't help you. Replace it.

Jasper doesn't have a great reputation. Better to find a local rebuilder with a good reputation. Ask at your local NAPA - they often know who's good and who isn't. You can pick up some transmission flush while you are in there to flush the lines and cooler. Get two cans. An extra can is a lot cheaper than a ruined transmission.

 

[Sharecropper]

As close to 100% as it's possible to get, and a drain plug won't help you. Replace it.

Jasper doesn't have a great reputation. Better to find a local rebuilder with a good reputation. Ask at your local NAPA - they often know who's good and who isn't. You can pick up some transmission flush while you are in there to flush the lines and cooler. Get two cans. An extra can is a lot cheaper than a ruined transmission.

Marcus that’s a good idea to flush those lines and cooler. Do you know if there is a procedure in the TMs for how to flush?

 

[FrankenCub]

Thanks guys, I'll add a new converter to the cost. I had planned on flushing the cooler and replacing the lines anyway so that parts covered. Still highly unlikely I'll be able to afford to have my tranny rebuilt, that's why I was looking at low mileage used. I already had to start paying for garbage service seems I cant take it to the landfill. Now my wife's income has dropped to zero thanks to the Chinese playing with fire. Wonderful start to the year.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Marcus that’s a good idea to flush those lines and cooler. Do you know if there is a procedure in the TMs for how to flush?

I haven't looked for one, but it's pretty simple. The lines are disconnected at the trans, you attach the can of flush to one end, put a catch basin under the other end, and let fly. When the can is empty, you're done. The flush is supposed to be compatible with trans fluid. I did this on my Ford van a few years ago, and just to be sure, I used two cans, and then blew it out with compressed air.

Since he's replacing the lines (not a bad idea!), just do the same thing but through the cooler only.

 

[Miah]

Took me a bit to get motivated but i finally replaced the wiper arms & blades to convert to newer Ford Bronco arms & 17" blades. The lisle puller worked excellent @ getting the old stuck arms off. Gave it careful wire brushing & a bit of anti-seize & the new arms slid on easily. While doing that i also swapped out one of the washer nozzles since a PO got the tips clogged with rhino liner-like product.

Tomorrow is supposed to be pretty nice as well, so maybe i'll try & get a few more little things knocked out then.

SUN EDIT: So went to install a replacement delphi vacuum pod & found that someone had forgotten to tap any of the mounting bolt holes on it...or else it mounted in some special way that didn't require bolts. Picked up a random cardone pump from oreilly's & took the pod off it. Replaced most the vacuum lines as well.

Then i bolted the 24v lines to the pass side frame, looks like rivet heads broke off or were removed by a PO so the lines were just hanging on the pass side. Productive!

 

[Thomas_G]

Washed and serviced my two.

 

[SDJunkMan]

Had a Gen 1 light come on last week as I was finishing plowing snow. It warmed up enough to check it out today. After reading several posts and checking several things, I finally figured out that it was a blown heater fuse. Not sure what caused the fuse to blow, but it appears to be working fine for now.

I did have the heater on high when the Gen light came on so maybe there is a problem with the blower motor, I'll try to test it. Any one have any other ideas what might have caused the fuse to blow?

 

[cucvrus]

Yes the heater swich and heater switch connection. It gets loose and heats up. Give that a look see. Good Luck.

 

[SDJunkMan]

Yes the heater swich and heater switch connection. It gets loose and heats up. Give that a look see. Good Luck.

Thanks, I'll check them this morning.

 

[JPx187]

Performed a Dana 60 front swap over the weekend. Still setting up gears for the 14 bolt, but so far everything has been bolt in. I was a little surprised to see how much taller it sits without any suspension modification. Not much wider, should've taken some before pictures.

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[kallisti5]

Been taking advantage of the nice weather and being stuck at home...

* Replaced blown water-in-fuel diode (blue tape)
* Replaced CDR valve.
* Replaced vented oil fill cap (which was *hard* to locate online. They don't make them anymore, and the normal Blazers used a non-vented)
* Replaced leaky vacuum lines for transmission
* Replaced vacuum valve (need to re-calibrate per TM still)
* Replaced fully rotten "larger" vacuum tube on top of pump.
* Replaced fuel line under intake manifold with the "good stuff" 30R9
* Painted random stuff that was rusty while it was off the engine.
* Finished rebuilding drivers door after mixing and matching parts from a donor (Finally!)








I wanted to pull the hard-fuel lines and pull the valve covers to paint them, add new gaskets, and check gaps... but after looking at how much work that was, and the truck only having ~60k miles on it I got lazy

 

[Csm Davis]

Been taking advantage of the nice weather and being stuck at home...

* Replaced blown water-in-fuel diode (blue tape)
* Replaced CDR valve.
* Replaced vented oil fill cap (which was *hard* to locate online. They don't make them anymore, and the normal Blazers used a non-vented)
* Replaced leaky vacuum lines for transmission
* Replaced vacuum valve (need to re-calibrate per TM still)
* Replaced fully rotten "larger" vacuum tube on top of pump.
* Replaced fuel line under intake manifold with the "good stuff" 30R9
* Painted random stuff that was rusty while it was off the engine.
* Finished rebuilding drivers door after mixing and matching parts from a donor (Finally!)


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I wanted to pull the hard-fuel lines and pull the valve covers to paint them, add new gaskets, and check gaps... but after looking at how much work that was, and the truck only having ~60k miles on it I got lazy

What is this 30R9 fuel line you speak of?
I also changed the ignition switch on my daily driver because I lost the keys.

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[Miah]

30R9 fuel line seems to come up as various brands 3/8 fuel line for fuel injection vehicles on Amazon.

I picked up a set of rear shocks & started swapping them over only to find a PO possibly mixed standard & metric on the lower bolts/nuts? The bolts have a bad spot & even on a section of good bolt thread the nuts have a fair amount of "slop". Will go get a full set of grade 8 stuff tomorrow when i'm picking up the front shocks.

On single shock systems what is the bolt length? Same as the rears (3" i believe i read somewhere???) Might be a wise idea to pick up spare bits for them as well.