What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[cucvrus]

This always the same dance around the injection pump. I dealt with enough of these and it makes perfect sense to just change it with a fresh dated rebuilt one and live happily ever after. I feel like a broken record giving the same advice but it seems to heal a lot of ill's. It's a cost thing. $400-$500. if you do the labor yourself. If not add about $350 to that. Take Care and Happy Thanksgiving.

 

[latvius]

I had a similar problem with shutting off and being able to restart, ended up the clamp to the fuel line connecting to the IP broke and it was getting a little air. I put 2 clamps on it cause I had to pull the intake to see it and no problems since.

 

[the skull]

It was last week, but after a starter and flex plate replacement, after sitting 4 years, it fired right up. Took it for a ride around the farm field, then around the country block, man it was sweet to drive this old beast around again.

 

[Tinstar]

It was last week, but after a starter and flex plate replacement, after sitting 4 years, it fired right up. Took it for a ride around the farm field, then around the country block, man it was sweet to drive this old beast around again.

Nicely done!

There is nothing that accurately describes the incredible feeling of bringing a CUCV back to life.

 

[Mainsail]

Finally was able to get outside again today and troubleshoot it some more.

It fired up like normal, then died a minute later. Removing the pink wire and touching it back I hear the solenoid inside click occasionally, but not reliably every time. This is leading me to believe the solenoid is bad.

I found a procedure in the -34 for swapping the solenoid out. I think the screws I'm supposed to pull out (2 of the three) are shown in the photo below. Does anyone know the size of anti-tamper screw that is? I don't have a tool for that.

 

[cucvrus]

Finally was able to get outside again today and troubleshoot it some more.

It fired up like normal, then died a minute later. Removing the pink wire and touching it back I hear the solenoid inside click occasionally, but not reliably every time. This is leading me to believe the solenoid is bad.

I found a procedure in the -34 for swapping the solenoid out. I think the screws I'm supposed to pull out (2 of the three) are shown in the photo below. Does anyone know the size of anti-tamper screw that is? I don't have a tool for that.

View attachment 819261

That is not a stock injection pump. I would try a torx 25 or 30 tamper resistant. But IMHO you are avoiding the inevitable. And let me warn you. They are 10/24 threaded screws and they are steel. If you strip them or break them off the injection pump may be an unsalvageable core. I had one that someone drilled out the broken screws and rethreaded 2 of them. I sent it for rebuilding and they returned it as unserviceable. I had another one to send. Not positive but I know that steel bolts / screws in aluminum housings don't get along well. The 8mm drive heads give you a bit more of an advantage. The Torx I have less faith in. Good Luck and report back.

 

[riggermedic]

I scored an awning at a local auction for $70, I did not know it wrapped around when I bought it... I may need to paint the truck to match

 

[Keith_J]

Got the dash back together. I lubricated the speedometer cable and bushing, packed it full of grease then cleaned off the excess. Smooth and quiet now. Also reset the null position as the needle was far off. Checked with a traffic radar sign, at a solid indicated speed of 60, radar had me at 59. Before, it was 53 at indicated 60.

Also finished the heater core control valve, powered now by the WOT downshift source. This switched power source is more like 14 volts, the valve now takes 5 seconds from full closed to wide open

 

[chevymike]

Got the rest of the box stripped down.

 

[Thatwelderguy88]

Finally installed the injectors i got from 2INSANE, this poor truck has had a rough life with the previous owner. Im increasingly confident that a rebuild will be on deck after this years plow season. Truck fires up and idles pretty good but still have a notable miss off idle and plumes of white smoke with a heavy fuel smell. Plenty more to do, swapping out the IP next weekend with the 4911 i scored along with a new timing set. will be replacing the lift pump and fuel filter also. Have a look at the No.2 injector, i dont think i have ever seen one this bad...

 

[83k30]

Went to start my daily driver cucv and got smoke rising from under the hood. Found a battery ground had burnt the insulation off. Suspected a glow plug issue so I replaced the burnt ground and removed the glow plug card. Installed a push button to cycle the plugs manually. Tried again to start to the truck with the same results as earlier, burnt the same ground. Since I was only having the issue while cranking, I figured the stater motor may have had a short. While checking the wiring under the hood, found a loose ground from the firewall bus bar to the intake manifold and another loose ground from the frame to battery. Lesson learned, check grounds and keep them clean. Truck fired right up. Next day the truck fired up, took a short trip to town and the truck sputtered and died. My electric carter rotary lift pump was dieing...parts store had another on the shelf so I'm back on the road again.

 

[Curtisje]

Pulled off the cheap $20 mufflers and installed the cheap $30 mufflers. What a difference... I can hear myself think again. Merry Christmas neighbors!

 

[D6T]

I rarely post in this thread but love the inspiration and ideas that I get from others.

Thanks in a large part to all of the wisdom here on SS, I don’t need to do much work beyond basic maintenance.

Today I simply took my M1009 on a nice long ride. It was the first time it’s seen third gear since the beginning of the summer. Just a nice leisurely backroad ride with a big grin on my face!

 

[hrbergeron]

In case anyone wanted to see a comparison between a CUCVI and CUCVII, here you go.

 

[Mainsail]

Took the governor cover off the IP and changed the shutoff solenoid.

Those anti-tamper screws were a lot of drama; really not sure why they used them. None of my anti-tamper torx would fit. I ended up having to tap the T25 on with a hammer.

Truck started up and I drove it around for about 20 minutes to make sure it wasn't going to die again. It'll be back as a daily driver for work next week- might take some time before my confidence in it comes back enough to take it up to the mountains.

Nothing in my hardware stash would work for replacements for those torx screws.

If anyone has a dead IP and is willing to part with some regular screws let me know- it'll be a lot easier than trying to find some around here.

 

[german m1008]

Finally was able to get outside again today and troubleshoot it some more.

It fired up like normal, then died a minute later. Removing the pink wire and touching it back I hear the solenoid inside click occasionally, but not reliably every time. This is leading me to believe the solenoid is bad.

I found a procedure in the -34 for swapping the solenoid out. I think the screws I'm supposed to pull out (2 of the three) are shown in the photo below. Does anyone know the size of anti-tamper screw that is? I don't have a tool for that.

View attachment 819261

......... I know it's a little late


TorxPlus Security
Ein sternförmiges Wellenprofil mit fünf abgerundeten Nocken und einem SicherheitsZapfen in der Mitte.Verbesserter Schutz vor nicht autorisierten Personen.
Diesen Bit gibt es in den Größen 10IPR / 15IPR / 20IPR / 25IPR / 30IPR / 40IPR


.......... and then only in German

 

[Mainsail]

......... I know it's a little late
View attachment 820591View attachment 820590

TorxPlus Security
Ein sternförmiges Wellenprofil mit fünf abgerundeten Nocken und einem SicherheitsZapfen in der Mitte.Verbesserter Schutz vor nicht autorisierten Personen.
Diesen Bit gibt es in den Größen 10IPR / 15IPR / 20IPR / 25IPR / 30IPR / 40IPR


.......... and then only in German

Those are the culprits. The center post was larger than the hole in the T25 Torx anti-tamper bit I have. I was able to get them out and back in by tapping the bit onto the head of the screw. Not the best maintenance practice I know, but finding another bit wasn't something I was going to be able to do in the limited time I had.

My plan is to replace them with either three good used ones, with normal heads, if someone here has some they can spare or I can find in the junkyard. If not I'll pull one and take it to Tacoma Screw and see if they can match it.

 

[LT67]

Obviously needed a new flexplate...

 

[Sharecropper]

Obviously needed a new flexplate...

I'll second that! When you install the new flex plate, remember to use blue Loktite on those special flex plate bolts and torque them to spec. You may want to clean out the threaded holes with acetone before installing the bolts so the Loktite will grab properly.

 

[chevymike]

I replaced my IP cover screws with cap head bolts. Worked good.