• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

Chaplain
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
18,551
5,922
113
Location
San Angelo, Tom Green County, Texas USA
FFesco said:


Changed my brake fluid, DOT4, on my m998. The fluid keeps changing colors. Sometimes has a tint of red, sometimes a tint of blue green. I’m guessing the red is old rust, not sure about the BLUE. Any ideas?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


It's an indication of contamination.
Like giving your MV hallucinogenic drugs (ie: LSD).... Those "pretty changing colors" are really signs of TROUBLE.

You've heard the expression: "Don't drink the Koolaid."? Well, if you really love your truck, you shouldn't "poison" it through the brake system..... YOUR life may depend on it.

​

86humv said:
Hmmwv's use Dot 5 silicone which is not compatible with anything .
Click to expand...
Agreed.

The next indicated step is a complete flush of the brake reservoir, lines, and cylinders. Then a transfusion of NEW DOT5 brake fluid.


DOT5 is special formulation particularly tolerant of high-heat applications and operating parameters. The seals and hoses can also be DOT5 specific, and as such DOT5 may not be compatible with other brake fluid formulations or the components in a DOT5 designed system. (Much as transmission fluids which are good for one manufacturer's trannies may be corrosive to the seals of another's.)

The chemical erosion may be a slow process with brake fluids, BUT the results can be CATASTROPHIC ! ! !
 
Milcommoguy

Milcommoguy

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,713
2,279
113
Location
Rosamond, CA
DANGER DAN... This is not going to go well with the dot 4 mixed in with a dot 5 system. First the seals in the master cylinder will turn to goo and blow out (and soon, give it a week or two) and pedal goes to the floor. NO WARNING and NO BRAKES. You might get the brake light to flicker or stay on (yes, the same one used for the emergency brake. it is tied into the master cylinder as a fail condition of that system) and at that point it's to late to stop.

Best to remove and replace master cylinder, unless your up to remove, flush and rebuild. Same goes for all of the slave cylinders and lines. They can be flushed and blown out in truck. Not real easy but needs to be done before dot 4 finds it way to those seals. Blow air and flush solvent from slave cylinders bleeders to open lines at master. Once completely cleaned / flushed and dried out (as in spotless, better that new) clear of dot 4 and crud, fill and bleed per the manual / TM

I have seen this a few times and it can turn simple mistake, into a headache real fast with serious brake system failure.

CAM
 
Retiredwarhorses

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,414
4,207
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
Milcommoguy said:
DANGER DAN... This is not going to go well with the dot 4 mixed in with a dot 5 system. First the seals in the master cylinder will turn to goo and blow out (and soon, give it a week or two) and pedal goes to the floor. NO WARNING and NO BRAKES. You might get the brake light to flicker or stay on (yes, the same one used for the emergency brake. it is tied into the master cylinder as a fail condition of that system) and at that point it's to late to stop.

Best to remove and replace master cylinder, unless your up to remove, flush and rebuild. Same goes for all of the slave cylinders and lines. They can be flushed and blown out in truck. Not real easy but needs to be done before dot 4 finds it way to those seals. Blow air and flush solvent from slave cylinders bleeders to open lines at master. Once completely cleaned / flushed and dried out (as in spotless, better that new) clear of dot 4 and crud, fill and bleed per the manual / TM

I have seen this a few times and it can turn simple mistake, into a headache real fast with serious brake system failure.

CAM
Click to expand...

You cant mix fluids, but you can fully flush and replace them...dot 4 is used on Hummer H1 from 99-2006.
the MC and hydro booster don’t care.
 
C

Carrera911

Active member
138
31
28
Location
Cumming, Georgia
seatea777 said:
I'd be interested

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Thanks for the positive feedback. I can make the ones pictured or variations like the 3/4 length ones I've seen before or also full length without the tubing. However, being in college full time I don't really have time to make any more until summer. I was looking to see if there was any real demand for them and if I should consider making more down the road. I also plan to make a 12k electric winch plate, full extended underbody protection and airlift style bumper but that will come when time allows.
 
suzukovich

suzukovich

Active member
389
141
43
Location
Gibsonton Fl
Retiredwarhorses said:
You cant mix fluids, but you can fully flush and replace them...dot 4 is used on Hummer H1 from 99-2006.
the MC and hydro booster don’t care.
Click to expand...
The difference is this. DOT 5 also acts as a preservative of the brake system. That's why a 30 year old military vehicles brake system are in great shape and no rust or corrosion internally. DOT 4 is different. Civilian vehicles were not built to be around that long. If you hadn't noticed on restorations of older vehicles, one of the first things done are the brake system. You can not mix the two. Your just asking for a brake failure on the road. Seals react differently to DOT 5 vs DOT 4, especially when one has had DOT 5 for so long. Look at what happens when you take an older vehicle and put synthetic oil or trans fluid in it. Seals start to go.

Sent from my SM-J727U using Tapatalk
 
patracy

patracy

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
14,653
4,850
113
Location
Buchanan, GA
shawnshumvee said:
Hey Action, finished the m16 Weapon crate today. I know the last time i posted on this project your were a bit concerned on how I would fix the rifles from moving, well you can relax the fake m16's are going to be just fine.

View attachment 721030View attachment 721028View attachment 721029
Click to expand...

I've got a set of mounts for the front. But I don't have those mounts for the rears. How does the top mount attach? Got a part number or closer pic of the base bracket?
 
suzukovich

suzukovich

Active member
389
141
43
Location
Gibsonton Fl
Replaced the batteries, confirmed that the Cadillac valve is sticking. More importantly my daughter got her lerners permit, drivers training has begun.


Sent from my SM-J727U using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
111,221members
165,495threads
2,329,033posts
1,355online users
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks