What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[G3isMe]

Also, part numbers change a lot, the NSN’s don’t, many many mfgs use different part number for same part, you can see them in the NSN lookup. The correct t-stat has the rubber.

No argument there concerning part numbers changing. I will purchase a thermostat with the rubber from Kascar and report back. I had looked at one at a local parts store and it appeared too small in diameter compared to the housing. I'll buy one from Kascar to be sure it is the correct part. Thanks again for the advice, much appreciated. What is the "24 p"

 

[BLK HMMWV]

technical manual

 

[G3isMe]

I spoke with Kascars today and ordered the thermostat as Retiredwarhorses posted. I was told the thermostat installed originally in my M1045 will fit both engines but the one ordered is the correct part just as Retiredwarhorses stated. So evidently either Melton or the USMC installed the incorrect thermostat in my M1045 as the one I installed was an exact match to the one I removed from the vehicle last week. I again thank Retiredwarhorses for the advice in this and the other cooling issues thread where I have posted my cooling problems with my truck. Hopefully the new thermostat will correct some of the cooling problems I am still experiencing. I also edited my previous post concerning the fitment of the thermostats.


.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I spoke with Kascars today and ordered the thermostat as Retiredwarhorses posted. I was told the thermostat installed originally in my M1045 will fit both engines but the one ordered is the correct part just as Retiredwarhorses stated. So evidently either Melton or the USMC installed the incorrect thermostat in my M1045 as the one I installed was an exact match to the one I removed from the vehicle last week. I again thank Retiredwarhorses for the advice in this and the other cooling issues thread where I have posted my cooling problems with my truck. Hopefully the new thermostat will correct some of the cooling problems I am still experiencing. I also edited my previous post concerning the fitment of the thermostats.
.

I’m glad it worked out...what are your cooling issues?

 

[G3isMe]

I’m glad it worked out...what are your cooling issues?

Thank you Sir. The truck is running at about 235 F. So I initially assumed it was the thermostat. So I changed the thermostat, although with the incorrect part, so I am waiting for the new one to arrive. Then after reading some threads here I realized that my fan was not engaging. Using the troubleshooting Tech Memo I think I have isolated part of the issue to the thermostatic switch. I ordered a new one and it arrived today from Kascar so I will be replacing that this week. I also blew air at 90 psi into the line from the Cadillac valve to the fan. That seemed to help, as the fan did begin to engage with the air treatment and when unplugging the TDM. However even with the fan always on it does not seem to be cooling the engine adequately. The truck is still running at 235+ F and smells hot and it never gets below this temp. In this picture the temp was still climbing. So my hope is that with a new thermostat and a new thermostatic switch it will cool down to at least the 220 F range.

If that doesn't do the trick I am back to the drawing board....


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[Retiredwarhorses]

Thank you Sir. The truck is running at about 235 F. So I initially assumed it was the thermostat. So I changed the thermostat, although with the incorrect part, so I am waiting for the new one to arrive. Then after reading some threads here I realized that my fan was not engaging. Using the troubleshooting Tech Memo I think I have isolated part of the issue to the thermostatic switch. I ordered a new one and it arrived today from Kascar so I will be replacing that this week. I also blew air at 90 psi into the line from the Cadillac valve to the fan. That seemed to help, as the fan did begin to engage with the air treatment and when unplugging the TDM. However even with the fan always on it does not seem to be cooling the engine adequately. The truck is still running at 235+ F and smells hot and it never gets below this temp. In this picture the temp was still climbing. So my hope is that with a new thermostat and a new thermostatic switch it will cool down to at least the 220 F range.

If that doesn't do the trick I am back to the drawing board....


.View attachment 771987

So, that looks normal for an A2, I have about 7 of them, they all run right there, but your fan should engage right there.
if the TDM is unplugged, it should get to 200-210 contant as the fan is locked on.
have you changed that gauge out? Definitely change the thermostatic switch, if you had a bad tstat, you would know very very quickly.
if stuck open, it would run very cool, if closed...it would overheat in minutes.

 

[G3isMe]

It gets to that temperature in 5-10 minutes just idling in the driveway. It never gets to a lower temperature. The gauge is original and has not been replaced...yet. I am hoping part of the problem is the incorrect thermostat as the wrong one was installed when I bought it, and then I installed the wrong one as well. Hopefully that will arrive by the end of the week.

 

[Daves86]

So I got some of these painted
Put them here
So that Alex could install

 

[Bulldogger]

So I got some of these painted
View attachment 772375Put them hereView attachment 772376
So that Alex could install
View attachment 772377View attachment 772378

Looking good! (If I do say so myself.)

We are still in production. Cordura and Ballistic nylon are all in stock and being cut and sewn. A tan cover made of 1000D Cordura is in stock (need to make a frame for it, as that one was sold to RedDriver). 1000D Tan and OD Green cordura are in production, and I have OD green and Black ballistic nylon (1500D) as well. The OD Ballistic is a little light in color, and a touch shiny from the super tight weave, but it will fade and settle down directly I expect.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?188644-HMMWV-Soft-Slant-Back-Kits-590-and-up

I am trying to have some done to take to the Graves Mountain Rally, though I didn't sell any there last year so might not bother. If you're going and might want one, do tell me and I'll make an effort to have some with me.

Bulldogger

 

[Milcommoguy]

AND another reason to pay attention to all things electrical & HUMMWV. > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZevlfaLrmxM

I am not ragging on this guy, really not. Don't let the cool factor get in the way of the SAFETY.

Every drive is a test run, CAMO

 

[BLK HMMWV]

oh goody a big blank black screen. You may need to check the attachment Cam, nothing showing up. at least for me.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Just tested it and worked. Here's the link again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZevlfaLrmxM

Or take a look at Utube title: "Hummwv day 2 catches on fire LOL"

Nothing funny about loose, wiggly, clink, clank, bonk, buzz, drip on these trucks, CAMO.

 

[Another Ahab]

AND another reason to pay attention to all things electrical & HUMMWV. > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZevlfaLrmxM

I am not ragging on this guy, really not. Don't let the cool factor get in the way of the SAFETY.

Every drive is a test run, CAMO

'
The bud makes a comment (somewhere around 4:20+/-), that MilSpec hardware is pretty lame ("contrary to public opinion").

Wondering if that is actually so these days. Who knows?

 

[obijohn]

I don't know much about HMMWVs and just enough about engines to be dangerous... but isn't a water temperature of 235F high for an idling/non-'working' engine? Has anyone installed one of the Paradox rear cylinder cooling kits, or something similar? I wonder why the rear coolant passages from the head are blocked... seems like it would be a good idea to run these to a heater control so that the hot water from the rear of the cylinders either flows through the heater coil and then back to the radiator/engine, or bypasses the heater coil... or some blend of the two depending on how the 'heat' control is adjusted. Is that what is typically done on a commercial/GM install?

 

[gtboy1986]

My power steering pump got a hole in it so I patched it and that's where mine moved up to idk if it was air in the lines or something else I can drive it and let it idle in my driveway and it will stay almost on the line between 200 and 240

 

[gtboy1986]

So, that looks normal for an A2, I have about 7 of them, they all run right there, but your fan should engage right there.
if the TDM is unplugged, it should get to 200-210 contant as the fan is locked on.
have you changed that gauge out? Definitely change the thermostatic switch, if you had a bad tstat, you would know very very quickly.
if stuck open, it would run very cool, if closed...it would overheat in minutes.

I had a hole in my power steering pump and I patched it and done some test runs and mine tried to get up to that high and I been wondering if I had air in the lines where i worked on my power steering or something else, when I let it idle in the driveway it goes to the line between 200 and 240 and pretty much stays their but when it's close to 240 and I'm at the car wash the water pressure from the carwash will stop the fan when the water hits it so idk if I ha e other problems or not

 

[Bulldogger]

I had a hole in my power steering pump and I patched it and done some test runs and mine tried to get up to that high and I been wondering if I had air in the lines where i worked on my power steering or something else, when I let it idle in the driveway it goes to the line between 200 and 240 and pretty much stays their but when it's close to 240 and I'm at the car wash the water pressure from the carwash will stop the fan when the water hits it so idk if I ha e other problems or not

If water pressure from the car wash will stop the fan the fan clutch is not engaging. So you have other problems. Sounds like you need to double check the plumbing of the high pressure hoses to and from the pump, fan and cadillac valve. It's a common mistake to get the hoses backwards or otherwise mis-routed. It's in the manual, I don't have it handy to look up the page, but if you replaced the steering pump you were in the right section.

Bulldogger

 

[Milcommoguy]

Maybe semantics in text or logic... or

My logic IMO. Fact, Clutch is always engaged. Just try and turn it with the engine off. No can do. It will be locked to the hub, pulley and belts. Normal.

With 30 to 90 plus PSI, it will disengaged and should free wheel. Anything different at this point, clutch is BROKEN.

When electrical power is applied to Cadillac solenoid valve, power steering pressure will flow thru valve to the clutch for the disengage condition. (a cold engine start)

During normal conditions "disengaged" is most of the time... unless a hot engine temp switch cycling "open" or a kick down override for 20+/- seconds from the TDM. All system components working correctly.

This topic comes up some of the time, a lot, everytime on "new to me" owners. It is simple when you get your head wrapped around it and all the parts play nice. IMO and as a owner-driver-hobbyist it's one system that should be clear. It's a bad time to try and figure it out on the trail.

I would bet a donut that a LOT of trucks are running around with stuck fans as "the new normal" Wait till winter, never warm enough and always LOUD and no power. Another donut please. LOL

Here's my quickie goto for most simple problems. The free owners manual > https://hummerhuren.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/hmmwv_test-diagnostics.pdf <

See section 1. First one right out of the gate. Must be important.

Maybe it's just me, CAMO

 

[911joeblow]

I don't know much about HMMWVs and just enough about engines to be dangerous... but isn't a water temperature of 235F high for an idling/non-'working' engine? Has anyone installed one of the Paradox rear cylinder cooling kits, or something similar? I wonder why the rear coolant passages from the head are blocked... seems like it would be a good idea to run these to a heater control so that the hot water from the rear of the cylinders either flows through the heater coil and then back to the radiator/engine, or bypasses the heater coil... or some blend of the two depending on how the 'heat' control is adjusted. Is that what is typically done on a commercial/GM install?

You care correct that your heater would see hotter temps taking coolant from the back of the heads. However it would take longer to reach that temperature and the benefit of the balancing the temps would not work correctly. In order to get the balance you need a very controlled level of flow. The large heater core sizes are far too large. Plus obviously you would only see the changes when the heater was on which defeats the purpose in the first place.

 

[Gear Report]

Finally got my A2 slantback the way I want it... now I have listed it (link removed)
Pretty much sucks.