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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Milcommoguy

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Rosamond, CA
One of the guys at work was a HMMWV driver during his time in the Army and he told me his motor pool Sargeant told him to always drive in HL - even on base 🤷‍♂️.

That is completely antithetical to the TM, but his time in the service was during the time my HMMWV would've been putting around Ft. Bragg. Not saying he drove my M998 back in the day, just that maybe that was the prevailing thought process when my HMMWV got the most use, contributing exponentially to a dead rear diff. 🤔
Motopool SGT. needed power train work.

Just taking orders, CAMO
 

Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Olympia/WA
So a month or three ago my serp belt was starting to squeal, riding up on the front lip of the fan pulley. I spaced the power steering pump back slightly to make it stop.
Now power steering pump is noisy, so I probably screwed it up with that slight side load (or it was just failing anyway, who knows)

I pulled off the 200 amp generator to finally go resolve the underlying issue, which is the exhaust stud that holds the back of the generator in place was snapped off.
Of course things snowball. To get the snapped bolt out I had to remove the exhaust manifold.
When removing the exhaust manifold I found the oil cooler lines from the block were right up against the manifold, melting the protective wrap and the outer layer of the hoses.
Then add to that I had to remove the oil filter, finding that the oil leak from the adapter for the filter was slightly worse than I thought, and will probably need new o-rings to stop the leak.

Oh, and when I was removing the shims I put behind the power steering pump to space it back, I found the lower bolt holding the generator/PS pump bracket in place had backed out by 1/8", so that bracket ws only being held in place by the upper two bolts that were close together. It's my fault for not looking closer at the diagrams in the parts manual to see where the bolts were and how many when I started trying to fix this issue. I have no idea yet if this will solve the belt squealing issue, but I expect that there will be less movement in the generator/PS pump with all bolts tightened and the rear brace bolted to the block, so I'm hopeful that the belt squeal might be solved as well.

Currently waiting on the exhaust stud, oil filter adapter o-rings, and exhaust gasket. Fortunately I got the remains of the exhaust stud out without much difficulty once the manifold was removed. Now just to change the direction of the oil lines a little bit to keep them further away from the manifold, and maybe do a wrap on the manifold while it's out and easy to do.
 

Milcommoguy

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,649
2,084
113
Location
Rosamond, CA
Not the first time for the busted alternator stud / manifold bolt.

If a 60 Amp unit, there is a upgraded mod to the lower - rear alternator support that goes down to the engine block. Ties into engine casting boss.

Thicker strap and angle down to the block provides a much better support. (may apply to 200 Amp ???) Those big and heavy alternator need all support they can get.

This area > alt, PS pump, belt tension, brackets and bolts are on my check list to wrench every oil change. For sure a check item for new owners.

Stud or broken bolt, CAMO
 

Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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3,973
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Location
Olympia/WA
Not the first time for the busted alternator stud / manifold bolt.

If a 60 Amp unit, there is a upgraded mod to the lower - rear alternator support that goes down to the engine block. Ties into engine casting boss.

Thicker strap and angle down to the block provides a much better support. (may apply to 200 Amp ???) Those big and heavy alternator need all support they can get.

This area > alt, PS pump, belt tension, brackets and bolts are on my check list to wrench every oil change. For sure a check item for new owners.

Stud or broken bolt, CAMO
Yeah, the 200 amp has a large strap (3/8"x1" steel bracket) that goes to the exhaust stud.

It was the bracket bolt behind the power steering pump that can only be seen directly up from the bottom that was the loose one and backed out a couple millimeters. Still, there wasn't a whole lot of movement on the bracket with just the two upper bolts that are relatively close together. Still just a little too much movement though, as my serpentine belt keeps telling me.

6beff6c45f12058010b0eb656634cfa5049a4605-2.jpg
6beff6c45f12058010b0eb656634cfa5049a4605-1.jpg
As you can see, I buggered up trying to drill it in order to put in an easy out, but not too badly. I couldn't see what I was doing so that's when I removed the exhaust manifold and found the other issues.
It was almost flush with the block, but once I got it turned a little with a hammer and cold chisel I managed the rest of the way with pliers.

For the older blocks using an 8mm stud there is apparently a kit to upgrade to grade 12.9 studs, I couldn't find anything similar for the 10mm bolts/stud, as I'd be happier with a stronger bolt, and then just use grade 10 nuts as the weak point if anything needs to give.

I have 2 studs on order just so I don't screw this up, I figure if I ordered one I'd be screwed.
 
92
88
18
Location
Perrysburg OH
So I’ve installed a winch on the front. It’s the early plate with the built in hawse fairlead. I installed a roller instead but I’m not sure. Also finished my intercom and radio setup.
 

Attachments

Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,795
3,973
113
Location
Olympia/WA
M1123 fresh out of Yermo.

Started to disassemble for cleaning.
Found out the rear seat cushions and base lids were left out at rebuild.

View attachment 814001
Mine didn't have any cushions or seat bases, just the seat back that doubles as the floorboard when laid down.
If it's like my truck was, there will be a lot of random 1/2" bolts, nuts, and washers, as well as a few brackets and plates left over from when they removed the MAK (Marine Armor Kit) from it. Add to that no tailgate or related hardware.
The picture looks almost identical to what mine looked like (which had a 1999 or 2000 serial number with a 2010 rebuild sticker), but I at least had the closeout panels and the wiper arms.
 

DREDnot

Well-known member
717
430
63
Location
Phoenix, AZ
It did have the rear door blanks and the load floor seat backs.

No tailgate
No mirrors
No wipers
No glass
No top
No radio tray
No CDR valve

But...it did come with a big mystery bag.

795621_6002_0_0009.jpg
 
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