What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[TNDRIVER]

My plan is to ask them to just spec out the alignment, then I would do whatever was needed as far as caster and camber is concerned and then return and have them set the toe.
Actually my Detroit (M99 has shown to have GREAT tire wear, so I will likely take it first and maybe just try to copy the actual specs of that truck.

For anyone that is a little geospatially inclineed I would be happy to explain how to align their truck. You need a relatively level floor, a torpedo level with a laser, a digital inclinometer (decent ones are available pretty cheap), some square aluminum tubing to make 2 jigs, a couple carpenter plums with mason twine and a tape measure, wrenches and floor jack. I aligned my 1123 and 998 in about 4 or 5 hours and never broke a sweat. Razor blade fine alignment on these is a waste of money. The 1123 with all the shims out of the rear was still slightly positive on the camber, more so on one side than the other. Also with the shims you have two choices take it or leave it on castor and camber no in betweens. Big soft (relatively) bushings, wobbly tires, close enough works. Save the laser alignment for your Lamborghini.

 

[Gcelevator]

Changing one front tire/rim that seems to be damaged.
Installing a switch for the cutoff fuel selenoid, the switch will also be a cutoff for a 12VDC system i am planning to install. The idea is when i shut off the truck, i also cut the 12v systems accessories so it won't drain the battery.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Today on my m1165 I installed my fording cup and I put new hood stops on. Had a few parts come in that I needed. I was going to Change the cover to my injection pump only to realize that I don’t have a 5 point torx and neither does my neighbor. lol I have the best neighbors. I need to adjust my hood and it looks like it needs to move forward 3/8” on the passenger side. It looks difficult to do and I have a a pretty good idea what needs to happen. I looked at the TM and crawled underneath and I counted 6 bolts and a shield up front with slotted holes.. I want to swap the generator when I get it running. I also cleaned my battery compartment while I’m waiting for stuff.

 

[GuntherRommel]

I had to adjust my hood also. it was done by 2 bolts each side above the front frame

 

[Maxjeep1]

I had to adjust my hood also. it was done by 2 bolts each side above the front frame

Do you have the guppy model? I have that extended front end and I did see the two on each side.

 

[GuntherRommel]

Sorry I missed it a was a turbo

 

[Maxjeep1]

Sorry I missed it a was a turbo

My m1123 was less complicated.

 

[Gcelevator]

My m1123 was less complicated.

Yesterday i installed the hood lift blocks in less than 40 minutes by myself, of course M1123. Super easy.

 

[blutow]

I finally changed the trans fluid on my 1123 that I got back in Feb. I also changed all the rubber hoses on the ATF lines underneath and up by the cooler. The rubber wasn't too bad, but I decided to go ahead and do all hoses as insurance. It's a bit of a spaghetti mess where they branch off to the transfer case.

Cooling system hoses and fluid change is next and then just a few more fuel hoses and I think that will be all the critical rubber stuff done. Nothing too exciting, but good for long term dependability.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Yesterday i installed the hood lift blocks in less than 40 minutes by myself, of course M1123. Super easy.

I have a plastic cover underneath my dash and I had some insulated mat hanging down on the drivers side. I couldn’t see anything and I’m reaching up there thinking about scorpions and black widows. I taped the washer to the nut to get it started and then tore the tape off. I had the ac on the other side but it was bad.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Still working on my non runner. Today I replaced the IP cover with the new solenoids. I had a messed up boot on the back connection. I tried to start it and I got nothing. Open up the water separator and cranked it over and zero fuel came out. I was thinking that maybe the check valve was clogged, so I get underneath and it’s buried up in there. I started looking at everything while I was underneath it and I get up to the water separator and I see a plug end with 4 white wires hanging down. I found the other end of it and plugged it in and I now had fuel coming out. I cracked the injection line on the passenger side because it was the only one I could get to. I cranked it over for 20 seconds and never got fuel. Batteries were going dead so I stopped to charge them. I might have a bad Ip. I will play with it tomorrow and see if I have any luck. I don’t want to change the ip. Turbo probably has to come off along with intake and fuel lines and probably valve cover gasket’s while I’m in there. I have to get over the top creeper because I can’t take very much of trying to climb up in there.

 

[Action]

The thing on top of fuel filter can has nothing to do with fuel movement.
With the doghouse off (turbo), I find the driver side rear injection line the easiest to open.
You could still have air in the filter can and lines. The water drain is on the bottom.

 

[Maxjeep1]

The thing on top of fuel filter can has nothing to do with fuel movement.
With the doghouse off (turbo), I find the driver side rear injection line the easiest to open.
You could still have air in the filter can and lines. The water drain is on the bottom.

The line that threads into the injector? I opened the one on the rear cylinder on the passenger side. I will open both. Maybe it was a coincidence then on the plug. I had clean fuel and it was full inside the ip when I took the cap off.

 

[Action]

The line that threads into the injector? I opened the one on the rear cylinder on the passenger side. I will open both. Maybe it was a coincidence then on the plug. I had clean fuel and it was full inside the ip when I took the cap off.

Yes. The hard line that screws into injector. I have never had to open more than one.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Yes. The hard line that screws into injector. I have never had to open more than one.

I took the return line off the ip and turned it over and fuel came out. I couldn’t see how much came out but the lid was covered in fuel.

 

[Mogman]

I took the return line off the ip and turned it over and fuel came out. I couldn’t see how much came out but the lid was covered in fuel.

You are getting fuel to the IP if it is coming out of the return fitting, are you getting a pronounced "click" at the IP when the ign. is turned on?
You of course made sure the top went on correctly yes? you should have felt some spring tension trying to move the cover forward before installing the screws.

 

[Maxjeep1]

You are getting fuel to the IP if it is coming out of the return fitting, are you getting a pronounced "click" at the IP when the ign. is turned on?
You of course made sure the top went on correctly yes? you should have felt some spring tension trying to move the cover forward before installing the screws.

I just sat in on and lined up the holes. I didn’t know it had a special procedure. What would happen if I didn’t do that? Lol not get fuel?

 

[Mogman]

I just sat in on and lined up the holes. I didn’t know it had a special procedure. What would happen if I didn’t do that? Lol not get fuel?

If you get it wrong you can have a runaway engine that will not shut off as long as it has fuel and air, it is VERY important to get it right.

 

[Maxjeep1]

If you get it wrong you can have a runaway engine that will not shut off as long as it has fuel and air, it is VERY important to get it right.

I’m good with runaway. I just want run. Lol I think I got a bad ip and I looked at tm and I can’t find a part number for turbo trucks. I would like to have mine rebuilt but I seen some really bad reviews from the Stanadyne people in Las Vegas

 

[Glider]

Buried Hmmwv